Hi Haseo, The primary reason to plant lilies deep is because they are stem rooting (roots grow out of the side of the underground portion of the stem as well as from the bottom of the bulb). These roots provide extra nutrition over the growing season (so your bulb gets larger) and add stability to the stem. Deep planting also helps prevent premature sprouting (and hence frost damage) if there are wide temperature swings over your winter. It also helps keep the squirrels from getting them. Stargazers are fine at 6", but if you haven't planted them yet I'd go ahead and put them 8" or even 10" deep. I'm not understanding the second part of your post. Different lilies have different leaf patterns, but all have a good amount of leaves. Compared to an Oriental (like Stargazer) Trumpet lilies have a large number of thinner leaves and Asiatics have a somewhat greater amount of leaves. Without more info. I can't help you. Also consider scent, Orientals and Trumpets have a strong scent. Asiatics are usually scent free. -Helen

"I'm saying that the only difference I've seen with Dr. Carolyn Pink is the size of fruits on different plants. Yet you say there are other subtleties. What are they?" [Carolyn] Well, since "taste is subjective," Ill leave out all but a few comments that vary on the taste differences  except for one taste reference from one person, since his taste perception is singular. The biggie seems to be size variances  which again may be individual perception, unless folks are using calipers to take the measurements  but even you, Carolyn, say repeatedly here and in the SSE Yearbook that you are unable to select out the smaller Dr. Carolyn Pink and continue to get large cherries from the small cherry seeds and use the word "unstable" to describe that continuing condition. Here are some other quotes that I think indicate some instability with regard to size, shape, and that blossom end scar signature that some see and some donÂt. "It tends to be a medium large cherry size about 3/4 to 7/8 of an inch diameter and it has a small hole where the blossom end scar should be." [Fusion, 6/25/07] "The one I grew apparently has the larger size cherry tomatoes (about an inch and a half) and a very bland flavor. Also, the calyx is extremely large for a cherry, more suitable for a large beefsteak, actually, and it is attached VERY firmly at all stages of ripeness, so that you can't just twist it off." [Doof, 6/25/07] (Note: No one else mentions this tough calyx connection. Has anyone else noticed this unusual characteristic for a cherry tomato?) "I haven't gotten smaller ones as mentioned above, usually the fruit is about an inch and a half on the pink ones and the ivory are somewhat ovalish, not a complete oval like a grape but definitely not totally round." [Albertar, 6/25/07] "From what has been posted above, perhaps these are the larger ones, being one and an eighth to one and a quarter inch in size and there is no little hole in the blossom end." [GonefishinÂ, 7/14,07] "That's correct Bill, saved seed from small fruited ones can give plants with small or larger cherries and it's been that way since I received the seeds from Robert Martin, who also named it Dr. Carolyn Pink. I can't tell you how many times I've saved from the small fruited ones trying to get a pure line of small fruited ones, but so far no go." [Carolyn, 7/14/07] "The size was a bit smaller than Eva Purple Ball, a little lighter in color." [Doof, 7/14/07] "I received a Dr C from Darrel and it has 1 to 1.8 inch pink fruit Â" [Bill R., 7/14/07] "As noted above, there is some variation in the fruit produced from these tomatoes. I am convinced that they are still segregating. I looked back at some photos from last year and realized I described it above as 3/4 to 7/8 inch diameter but my photos are of a fruit closer to 1 inch or just a tad more. The original Dr. Carolyn Pink was distinctly low in sweetness and had relatively strong tomato flavor similar to Galina." [Fusion, 7/15/07] (Note: Fusion says the one he now grows has complex flavor "with a bit more sugar content than average.") "Sounds like I have the large DCP. Large fruit for a cherry type, even a couple that had a sort of mini beefsteak appearance and were close to 2" across (most were not, these odd ones almost looked like fused/doubles)." [Suze, 7/15/07] (note: Suze includes a picture of her Dr. Carolyn Pink in which only one of seven tomatoes exhibits anything resembling a "pinhole blossom end scar.") So, I guess "subtleties" is a bad choice of wording on my part. Maybe I shouldÂve said the obvious instability exhibited by size variance and the remaining mystery as to whatÂs up with those other color lines. But then I guess the Dr. Carolyn in ivory is stable with regard to color and size? If so, that's an interesting contrast to the Dr. Carolyn Pink. Bill

Chickadee's got it: Google! (or to get directly to shopping, Froogle) A good variety came up when I just did it. But for the non-standard size, the bill could add up. You might also Google/Froogle "unfinished 8x8 frame"-- if you want to mess around with staining them yourself.

vinmarks No, in your case I was tempted to write that the VaH can make use of that size duct. I think VaH may be negligent if they don't point out that that duct size needs to be matched on the MUA side. As pointed out earlier, few in the kitchen hood sales chain want to raise the issue of make-up air and the horror it can be to retrofit into a renovation.* But lest others think that they need 12-inch duct for 1200 CFM with conventional blowers in lieu of using 10-inch for typical lengths, I wanted to point out that that would be only a modest improvement relative to getting the MUA in with low pressure loss. Pressure loss is counted from the cooktop to outside and then from outside to inside back to the cooktop. ------- *An example MERV7 high flow 4-inch deep pleated filter, 2 ft x 2 ft in area used to catch the big particles and bugs that the MUA air could pass into the house, used at 1200 CFM (300 ft/min) would have a pressure loss of 0.1 inches w.c. (See table from https://www.texairfilters.com/comparative-tests-on-pressure-drop-of-hvac-filters/ If one looks into VaH data, for example see below, 0.1 inches w.c. drops the flow rate of a dual blower (1200 CFM) hood to 1060 CFM. At 1060 CFM, the filter pressure loss is a bit less, so one really needs to plot filter loss vs flow rate against the fan curve implied by the data below to obtain the expected flow rates (excluding ducts, MUA register, and exhaust duct cap pressure losses which also need to be counted) . And for comparison, using an equation I found on the Internet at the HVAC engineering forum referencing the 2003 ASHRAE Handbook at Page 52.5 (confirmed in my copy) and adapting it with some trepidation to screening as was done at the forum, and assuming a screen of 70% openness across a 12-inch duct at 1200 CFM, the pressure loss is even higher than the pleated filter, reaching 0.7 inches, w.c. With a 15-inch screened duct, 0.1 inches w.c. at 1000 CFM could be achieved. The moral is, use a lot of screen area, or low loss filtering, or let the sparrows in.