dad had one here in MI for 20 years.... only twice did it set fruit ... the blooms are extremely touchy in terms of temps .. the slightest frost will make the flowers abort ... so that would be the simple suggestion as to why it fruited one year.. and perhaps not the next ... even in CA .... [any recollection of the citrus folks going crazy.. the year it did not set fruit????] i would suggest that a 2 year history is not enough info to jump to any conclusions ... and surely not a reason to leap to pruning to solve the problem... which it wont.. if it was a temp issue .... also.. pruning for fruit production.. usually does NOT make for a pretty tree .... if you are not the owner.. its really not your problem ... and i dont know why you would want to interject the topic into your landlord/lessee relationship .... the tree is grossly large for such a tiny space ... if you consider that the root mass could be twice as large as that above.. you wonder where it is getting water and air ... as compared to all that concrete ... at least its not a 100 tree.. that will crush the house ... killing you in your sleep ... if it fails.. it should not do that much damage .. and its not your problem anyway ... if i were the landlords ins agent.. i might not be happy about the risk ... also.. sooner or later.. there is the possibility .. that it might cause those walls to fail ... the only issue being.. in whose lifetime ... lol ... i only bother to mention all this.. because you had a thirst for knowledge.. bottom line.. i would not invest anything in this tree .. and be saving money for future removal ... as even i dont think i could get it out of there safely/easily ... i have 5 acres.. and CA lot sizes mystify me ... thats quite a front yard you have there.. lol ... but at least you have one.. compared to apartment folks.. if i had that tiny a spot.. i would have some type of potted collection of plants to play with ... rather than two 20 foot trees ... have a great day ... ken

The tree was thriving early in the morning and two hours later looked horrible. Then the same the day after. I eventually added AS, just a tiny bit, and another week later it stopped getting witted. ==>>> you are trying to love this thing to death ... classic symptoms of transplant shock ... the roots not able to pump enough water.. during the heat of the day ... with recovery in dark... no sun .. as you were told.. all you needed was water ... IMHO ... you got very lucky you didnt love it to death ... with the AS ... you have been repeatedly told its time for it to go dormant ... which means.. in my book.. stop all fertilizer or soil amendments.. until it starts to grow in spring ... hyper fert'g late in the season.. has the potential to interfere with proper hardening off to dormancy ... and that is usually.. not good ... please... try not to love it to death ... and good luck ken

th102 now is not the ideal time to prune your tree. Having said that. It will still leaf out and produce fruit if you prune it now. The longer you wait the more sap will be flowing thought the tree and the tree will lose more of its energy due to losing more sap. Keep in mind that pruning while the tree is no longer dormant will be a shock to the tree. Thus it will likely appear to stop the active growing process for 1-3 weeks. Your fruiting and ripening cycle this season will also likely be delayed/slowed by roughly the same amount of time.

Blakeas: I believe that your tree is a Celeste, for several reasons: You live in Atlanta, and these, and Brown Turkey are the dominant varieties of "heritage" fig trees in that area. It has a high percent of three lobed leaves (instead of the more common five lobed) leaves. My Celeste figs have this characteristic. ID of a fig from its leaves alone is treacherous at best. If I am right, your tree should produce its crop early in the season, (Celeste is my earliest fig), and the fruit should be brown in color and small to medium in size, with a very sweet taste. I have two large mature Celeste trees, which were about the same size as yours until I began to whack away a year ago, to bring them back to manageable size. I chose some large center branches and sawed them off to a large lateral branch two or three feet from the base. I wish I had sawed them off to the ground, because the result is a ragged appearance. I will finish the job this winter. The result is that the trees put out multiple new shoots, and the fig crop was not nearly as large as before. I plan to keep one or two of the new shoots and trim the rest off. The point is, it is very hard to kill a fig tree, and a mistake can be corrected and/or modified the next year. Consider the pruning as a multiple year project instead of one giant amputation.