Hi valeriepa, I am assuming that you must have used the Large Flat Rate box. The use of the Flat Rate boxes is not always the best deal. It all depends upon what mail zone the box is going to and how much the box weighs once it is packed. Being a veteran trader, I (usually) don't respond to trade posts where the member's location is not shown. I take into consideration what it is that they have, and if I could find it locally. I take into consideration what I have to offer them, and the approximate weight/cost, given their location. I take into consideration what that plant would cost, if I could even find it locally, or what it would cost if purchased on line, and had shipping charges added to the cost. IMHO...all plants are not created equal in value to me, so that is a consideration. In the spring I often trade native spring wildflowers...Trillium (rhizomes), Jack in the Pulpits(rhizomes/bulbs), May Apple roots, among other things. These plants are very inexpensive to ship, usually weighing one LB or less, ($4.95) and can often be mailed in a sturdy box and go as First Class if it is less that 13 OZ, and might be $3, more or less. Here are some links that may help you. If you plan to do much plant trading at all, or even seeds trading, you might want to invest in a Digital Postal Scale from Ebay. $20-$25 is a good price if it includes shipping. You might find that printing out the Postal Zone Chart is a good thing to have handy when packing, along with a Print Out of the Priority Mail Pricing to all zones. This is the Printer friendly version I hope. Here is a list of all the Priority Mailing boxes, and their dimensions. You can order them on line, and have them delivered to your house, or you may be able to pick up a couple of each size at your local Post Office. I salvage small cardboards boxes at the recycling center, for those trades that are especially lightweight ( 13 OZ and under) and that can go First Class, (which is just as fast I am told) but considerably less than a 1 LB Priority (4.95). Last year I did a trade with a member in FL. She was sending me a rooted cutting of a Lacecap hydrangea. I forget what I was sending, but knew it would not be costly to send, but would be a good value to her if she were to buy what I was sending. Well...her 'cutting' had been rooting for over a year, and the root system was massive, and was like a very well rooted 1 GA hydrangea...to the point that it was not even possible to get most of the soil off of the root system. She mailed it Flat Rate and paid about $9 at the time. I weighed it when I got the box, and had she chosen to pay by the pound, it would have cost just $6.40. There are a lot of ins and outs to be considered when trading. For $13.95, I could mail a 19 LB box if it was going to mail zones 1 or 2. I could mail an 11 LB box to zone 3. I could mail a 9 LB box to zone 4 I could mail a 5 LB box to zones 5 and/or zone 6...etc. I could mail a 4 LB box to zone 7 I could mail a 3 LB box to zone 8 Even just 5 LBs is really a lot of weighty plants. I was stuffing daylilies in a flat rate box, and it was hard to get enough packed for the flat rate to be cost effective as opposed to going with paying by the pound. I won't do flat rate box trades. I would maybe consider sending a box of the same dimensions as a flat rate, but would pay by the pound, if it was more cost effective. I know sometimes when folks offer stuff up for postage, they just use the flat rate to keep it simple. Since I have a scale, and printouts, I can offer things up by the LB and tell the member exactly how much it would be that way. Irises, particularly named ones are traded by the fan, and cut away from the mother rhizome, which will not grow anyway. Daylilies, particularly named ones, are usually traded by the fan, and some members cut the foliage back on them...others don't...if is doubt about packing it is best to ask the member, or even inquire as to how they plan to pack and ship, especially if they are a newbie to plant trading. Hostas, too I think are traded as eye divisions...as in X number of eyes, and the soil is cleaned from the roots and the roots only wrapped in moisture. Bulbs, the # is usually designated....daffodils, hyacinths, lily (bulbs), etc. Something like a bigger hosta that is leafed out well, might be best shipped in one of the 2 sizes of the tubular boxes...or better yet, as antique orchid pointed out, just trade it in early spring. 6" X 25" tube 6" X 38" tube I would never use Parcel Post, as there is very little difference in the cost of that and Priority as Karyn1 pointed out. I mailed some bulbs in a small box and forgot to mark it First Class boldly on the outside, though I had put enough postage on it to go FC. I was mailing from my home mailbox. Well, they went Parcel Post, and arrived in 2 weeks. Needless to say, that was way too long, and way too hot for even daffodils to survive well. So many folks say they prefer large trades, well there are those of us to 'like' small trades just as well or better. These are usually trading smaller starts of things that are just smaller by nature...Seedlings, cuttings, small rooted cuttings, iris rhizomes of particularly small by nature irises. Some of my best trades have been where I received in maybe 4 cool things that were shipped for 1 LB or less A lot of consideration goes into being a savvy trader, that both members will be pleased/with what they receive in relation to what they sent and what it cost them. Being in IN, I believe that everyone East of the Mississippi is mail zone 4 or less from me. Those within IN, and some folks in the immediately surrounding states are in mail zones 1 and 2...very cost effective for mailing. zones 3 and 4 are quite reasonable too. Sue...wordy as usual

garry, thank you. I wrote both of those in my notes. My those are not easy words. I'll look for one just like yours, tried to start from seed but not getting anywhere. It's supposed to take a long time to germinate, and I'm tired of waiting and hoping, had a lot of failures this time. janepa, thistles, the Scottish national flower. Before I dug up the front to plant lots of flowers, I let one volunteer thistle grow by my front steps so I could watch its progress. It was interesting and took photographs of the blooms, also got a Monarch on it. But I didn't lop off the seed heads. So the next year it took me a long time to dig out the hard way all the thistles all over the yard, front and back. That was about 5 years ago and found just one this spring, dug it up. That's a pretty big area, maybe if you do just a few at a time and not let them go to seed like I did. I take an old knife with a serrated blade and cut down around them. I'm not averse to using Roundup and plan to do it for the first time ever to clear a bunch of junk behind my garage and old gravel driveway that has become overgrown save for one old fern which I will protect. But I'm not looking forward to it. I also need to paint some on some stubborn stuff with runners that is almost impossible to dig all of it up, springs up anywhere it feels like, just when I finally got rid of most of another pesky one, took years of pulling that stuff. Neighbor dispatched his quickly with Roundup.

Katie, the property is lovely! Welcome to the New Eng forum. Before doing anything else, I would walk around the property taking lots of photos. It will give you a record of where you started and so give you a way to measure progress, help you plan, and assist in IDing and keeping track of what is there now that might benefit from moving to another spot. IME, things that look fairly awful can often be trimmed back and replanted elsewhere and if appropriately positioned can become lovely plants. At my previous house I planted a wooded slope entirely with half-dead rhododendrons that were taken to the dump by a local wholesale nursery. I hard pruned them, planted them, and the current homeowner now has a maintenance-free area that is spectacular in spring when the rhodies are blooming, and quietly lovely the rest of the year as the native groundcovers have returned. Before planting, it was a log landing where logs were stockpiled and the log trucks were loaded. Plants can be surprisingly expensive, so any that you can save that might be useful either as a permanent plant or as a temporary placeholder should be kept. Also, being on a hill, bare ground won't be your friend. Besides the issues with weed seeds sprouting, you will find that any large precipitation events or snow melt will cause erosion, so ground will always need to be covered, either by plants or by a layer of leaves. So any hostas that you haven't thrown out, keep to plant in beds you have cleared, and then use leaves to mulch around them. It doesn't have to be a forever planting, but will be low maintenance and will reduce the amount of weeding you will have to do by blocking light. The leaves will make any weeds that do sprout easier to pull. You may also find that you like hostas if planted with other groundcovers and shade perennials rather than on their own. I would take photos of the vines and shrubs in your beds. Be sure to take at least one of the whole bush and one that shows a branch or two relatively close up. There is a Name that Plant forum where you can get them IDed and then you can decide if you can use them, and if not, the best way to remove them. I have two favorite tools for clearing brush and saplings: a pair of oversized adjustable pliers which I use to try pulling anything of less than 1/2" diameter, since if you get the roots out it can't resprout, and a super-duty weed whacker that has in addition to the string trimmer (which rarely gets used), two metal blades, one for softer stems like brambles, and one for woody stems up to 2" or so. After that DH gets out the chainsaw. Anything that I can't pull up by the roots with my pliers, I cut to the ground and use a squirt bottle of concentrated glysophate herbicide to put a thin line on the outer rim of the fresh cut surface just where the bark meets the wood. Sometimes I need to repeat this twice over the course of a couple of years, but that's usually enough to kill anything. Be sure to wear appropriate clothing, especially gloves and eye protection. I also wear long sleeves and pants since we have a lot of poison ivy, and when using power tools I use ear protection as well. You may find your lot too steep for a brush hog, which is essentially a large scale, heavy duty mower that can cut through brush. Some are walk behind, and we have a tractor-pulled brush hog. They are great in the right circumstance, but I think would be quite challenging to use on your property. I notice you have some groundcovers - photo three looks like it might be Vinca AKA periwinkle AKA myrtle, and you mentioned pachysandra. Neither are spectacular, but in the right setting such as used under shrubs, will help make borders that seem to fit your needs for low maintenance and will help provide a transition from lawn to woods. There are lots and lots of other groundcovers and low-maintenance shade perennials and shrubs you can use, and the combination of various shapes, textures and colors can give you a lovely garden. Here is Marie's, which is one of the most gorgeous shade gardens I've ever seen. She has a suburban lot that's smaller than yours but is planted border to border, and there is some lawn. Mine is more interspersed into the edges of my native woodlands. Native rhododendron hybrids on a shady slope This spot has almost full shade and has various groundcovers plus a mountain laurel and 2 rhododendrons, one evergreen and one deciduous. There are several other rhodies along this woodland edge, but I couldn't find a decent photo of it. This area I have planted with shade-tolerant deciduous flowering trees and shrubs and am slowly filling in with native groundcovers. Other than the grassy area it is all mulched with free wood shavings and leaves. (Please pardon the trays of potted seedlings which spent the winter here out of the way of the plow.) The two threads linked below have shade plant ideas, and you might well be able to get divisions of some of these plants at local plant swaps or from gardeners here who are thinning things out. Zone 6 Shade Garden plant help Easy shade-tolerant ground cover? Since you want lawn, I'd start by figuring out your areas of at least half day sun (preferably more) and designating those as lawn. You can have grass in other areas, but in all reality, you won't want to spend the time trying to make the whole thing look wonderful - it would be a never-ending, unsuccessful chore. And on the positive side, the areas that don't grow as strongly won't need mowing as often. In New England, September is the best time to seed a lawn since the ground is warm, but the days are shorter and starting to cool off some, so the grass will sprout, but be less likely to be water stressed. There are seed mixtures for shade as well as for sun, so you will want to taylor what you plant to the amount of sun. With your slope, you may find that hydroseeding is more successful since the seed is mixed with cellulose mulch and sprayed on, so it is less likely to wash downhill if you have a heavy rain. As others have said, however, you may find that your current grass comes back better than expected once the weather warms up. One grass-like plant that grows well for me in shade is the native sedge Carex pensylvanica which grows to perhaps 6" and never needs mowing. I have quite a bit of it growing naturally. Your former pool area looks nice and flat now, so I would decide how you want to use that: lawn, veggie gardens, ornamental gardens, patio, putting green, or whatever, or even a combination of the two. I think if sunny enough, a round lawn with a rim of low maintenance flowering perennials would be lovely, and I've seen some gorgeous round ornamental and veggie gardens. A word of caution about fire . . . You live in an area with a lot of combustible material, and most towns have ordinances that control what, when, and how you can burn for reasons of safety. Wildfire/brushfires in wooded housing are a nightmare for firefighters. So for instance in my town, you need a permit unless snow completely covers the ground, and permits are only granted after 5:00 when most of the town's volunteer firefighters are available. This time of year (after snowmelt and before green-up) is the worst for brush fires since the surface of the ground usually has lots of fuel, and the sun is bright enough to dry the surface quickly, even in the woods. Sparks can start a fire that with a little wind can quickly get out of control. If I were in your situation, I wouldn't do any burning of debris since it will rot down on its own and will improve your soil in the process. We either mow leaves into the lawn or compost them (your blowing them into the woods or onto the perimeter beds to control weeds is just fine if you don't want to formally compost them in piles) and sticks can be piled out of sight in the woods to slowly decompose. There are many animals that will value brush piles for shelter. Remember that you don't need to do everything at once. I like to do an overall general plan that shows where I will have lawn, high maintenance ornamental beds, low maintenance ornamental beds, paths, compost, sitting areas, etc., but then I work on just one or two areas at a time. This time of year is great for removing woody weeds since the ground is soft and moist and not much is growing yet. See if you could print several copies of your plot plan and find an elevation map to help as well, and you can use those to try out ideas on paper. Think about things such as areas for trash and compost, how you will get from place to place (steps, formal paths, over the grass, etc.), areas for special interests such as badminton or other sports or bird feeders, sitting areas as well as gardens you can see from windows in the house (such as in an office or by the kitchen sink or from the couch) and whether building terraces with walls to increase your flat areas is worth the work. Once you have a plan, you can decide how to best put your vision into place a piece at a time. As others have said, having mostly lush lawn with all your trees and the slope isn't reasonable, but you can have a beautiful yard with at least some nice lawn and various other beautiful areas to enjoy.

Bella, you have many great varieties! I love coral charm and do tell. Well I pretty well love them all to be honest! I planted a number of itoh peonies, for some reason, as lovely as they are, they just aren’t the same as herbaceous peonies. I planted three tree peonies this year but it’s way too soon to tell what those will be like How did you find the zinnias to grow? I have several varieties I want to try! And sunflowers as well! To be honest there’s a very extensive list of ‘trials’ I am planning to conduct in the spring with seeds .. lol. Luckily I have no squirrels around here , or if they are around they certainly don’t go into my beds. I tend to plant the double type tulips, which resemble peonies. Drop dead gorgeous blooms. My faves from last year were sensual touch which is a double-fringe I think, my gosh are they ever beautiful. la belle epoque was gorgeous too! I love bringing in cut flowers into the house. I can’t wait for spring