No I'm not trying this now. I tried it around the 2nd or 3rd week in May. i'm in zone 5 but real close to zone 4. I maybe should of waited. Didn't realize we was going to have such a long cold time this spring. Done a lot more reading and I'll be trying next spring with some bottom heat . Yes the mama plant is making suckers. No it don't look like they can be dug up with some roots due to all the older growth and on top of all that the mama plant as you put it is on somebody else's property. so digging and layering is more than likely out of the question.

Andrew, I typically like to clean up the break on both the branch and the parent plant. Let the parent plant dry out once you have cleaned up the break and then seal with caulk or pruning sealer or liquid electrical tape. I use George's "Citizen Insane" pre rooting method...Once I cleanly cut the broken branch I like to dip it into rooting hormone so along with the sap it creates a "crust" then place in a humidity chamber or cover it with mulch in a box to callus. You can also wrap it with a damp shop rag/towel and leave it alone for a couple of weeks if you are pressed for time or space. Just find a way to let it heal in a high humidity warm location. By the time its callused you will probably need a heat mat to help it root. So if you dont have one of those you should go ahead and order it or buy locally. After that its just a matter of the bag method or the clear cup method. Either one should work. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

repot next spring. You will be amazed when you repot, how tight of a root mass you're going to see. Especially, if it is a plumie that is a fast grower, they get rootbound fast. All roots and no soil nutrients to eat. Since the plant is going into dormancy, it is OK to postpone the transplant til next spring. When you do repot, do your best to undo the root mass to prevent roots from growing round and round like they've been doing. you can apply rooting powder right after cutting or when ready to stick in soil. Doesn't make much of a diff. The KEY thing is to let branch callous, which should be anywhere from 1-3 weeks. Being that you're close to end of your warm season, I would just let the branch sit in some dry and warm part of your house and stick in soil next spring or whenever it gets warm in your area. And back to your broken branch, the flesh should look white. If you see the tiniest hint of "yellowing" right now, cut, cut, cut until you see nothing but white. Then dip in rooting powder or not. Finally. I live in Houston and am relatively successful rooting in the fall, but being that you are in MI, is why I suggest that you just let the branch be dormant until next season. This post was edited by bossyvossy on Thu, Sep 18, 14 at 16:05

Since you rooted it in water rather than in wet potting mix it will need some additional time in a container before going into the ground for best results. The adventitious roots that develop when rooted in water are a different type from the feeder roots needed to survive in the garden soil - which is why rooting cuttings is normally done in potting mix. I would suggest transplanting it into a container filled with a light potting mix or seed starting mix and kept moist for about a week to 10 days before putting it in its final home. This will allow feeder roots to develop. It will droop for a couple of days but then begin to recover and firm up. Keep it in the shade, not in the direct sun. You didn't say how big the cutting was but for future reference a smaller cutting, approx. 6" tall with all the leaves removed except for the top cluster will normally root itself well in damp mix in approx. 2 weeks and can then be planted. Many of us routinely use cuttings to expand our number of plants and you'll find many discussions here about how to' root cuttings' aka 'clones'. Dave