Suckers from roots

17 years ago

My mature Black Mission fig tree sends up hundreds of suckers from the roots, out to about three feet from the trunk. I have to pull them out by hand every few weeks. It never ends. I don't want to spray them, as I don't want to poison the tree. If I simply left them, would the tree itself be weakened? I am also wondering if covering that area with, say, black plastic would keep the suckers from growing. Would that work?

Thank you for any advice.

Bill T.

San Ramon, CA

timurileng@comcast.net

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (10)

girlfromthegarden
17 years ago
Hi Bill - I don't know that the tree would be weakened exactly, if you left them, though I might wonder if it would divert the tree's energies from fruit production to vegetative expansion, so limiting the suckers is probably a wise idea. Any chance you could lift a number of them with roots attached, start new plants and then find homes for them? (you might have a mini-business literally growing under your feet!) Maybe someone else will add their thoughts about whether black plastic laid down would be okay or detrimental to the tree's ability to get oxygen, moisture, nutrients, etc.

Is this an area where you could simply use a weed whacker or whatever, to spare your back from hand pulling? some of us would love to have your problem, believe me (a mature Black Mission fig going gang-busters).

Hope you get more input, I'm no expert, just grow figs in containers and only a few send up suckers within their pots, so it's not been a problem I've encountered personally on the scale you have.

Sherry
0
socal23
17 years ago
Bill,

unless your tree is grafted (unlikely), the basal suckers will not weaken the tree and since you are in a summer-dry climate, lack of air circulation is unlikely to prove problematic if it is trained as a shrub (as it clearly wishes to be). Using an herbicide on the suckers would probably kill and would certainly weaken the tree and nothing can be done to prevent them (the new shoots will continue to grow under black plastic because they can obtain nutrients from the root system which is fed by the top growth).

Ryan
0
Related Discussions
Eastern Redbud: No top growth, lots of suckers
Q
Comments (14)
I agree with Esh ga - try it and see. With careful attention to watering, which you will have to do with the flower bed anyway, it should be fine. Doing it in the evening, or just before a forecast for rain or overcast would help, giving it some time to settle without blazing sun beating down on it... As well, I notice that the one doing poorly has a ring of cast stone or cement around the bed, while it looks as though the other one doesn't. That may also make a difference. Having the surface of the root ball level with the ground/surface of the flower bed is usually better than having it buried. Mulch, or the extra dirt from the flowerbed is fine a few inches away from the trunk, as long as it is no deeper than 4", and the root flare next to the trunk is clear of covering (a very light scattering, to blend in with the surroundings is OK, but not inches or even half-inches!). If you wanted, and if the root ball looks soggy/too wet when you dig it up, you can replant it a little high (up to 2-3" high), making up the difference with dirt to make it level with the top of the root ball. This doesn't hurt the tree, and is a very good idea if you think the fill dirt under the tree is likely to settle over the next few years. Even though, to you, the soil is identical at 15' apart, there's no telling what the builder did, or left, in each area, so there may, in fact, be a major difference in the 2 areas that the trees "notice". However, I am more inclined, from this distance, to think that the new flower beds are holding too much moisture, esp. for the "poorly" one. Digging and replanting both of them might not be a bad idea, although, as you say, the one seems to be coping for now. Too much water can be as bad, or worse, than too little....
...See More
Suckers????
Q
Comments (1)
Yes, yes, yes. If possible it would be better if you could rub them off since it will not regrow back as readily. And don't delay! Also, the link below is from a very very well established citrus grower (Four Winds). Good luck! Peter Here is a link that might be useful: Pictorial of Sucker Removal
...See More
Meyer Lemon Blooming But Not Growing?
Q
Comments (11)
Thought I'd post an update, since I got such helpful advice for my trees this past winter. All survived the winter indoors, even though, thanks to a lot of travel, I managed to dry them out pretty badly a couple of times, enough that the Trovita and the Bearss lost some leaves. Still, the Bearss actually bloomed and even set fruit. The Meyer bloomed off and on all winter, but never sent out any leaves and, when I set the four trees out about a month ago, still had not sent out a single leaf, since I received it. It had lost a couple of original leaves, but pretty much looked like it did when I received it last summer. Left two weeks ago for a long business trip and, while away the temps topped out in the mid-90's, unusual for New Hampshire, with heavy rains on a couple of days - basically hot and humid weather. Came back on Friday to find that all four trees are covered in new growth, YES, EVEN THE MEYER! There looks to be new growth from pretty much every leaf junction on the tree. And, it is blooming, again. The largest fruit on the Bearss is about an inch and a half long, so I'm hoping to have my first harvest this fall or winter. Maybe, I'll even have some other fruit, too? All-in-all, the trees look great, and I have to admit that they have not been babied in any way. My next two decisions are 1) should I prune to shape them (rather leggy), and 2) should I repot into larger pots? For #1 I am undecided. For #2 I am thinking maybe mid-July, once they flush out the new growth. I think I will check if they are root-bound and use that as my guide. We are headed into several days of rain. When we get a break I will fertilize them. So, in conclusion, for those who have cranky or 'balky' Dwarf Meyer Lemon trees in pots - don't despair. It took a year, but mine finally has sprung to life. Just give it lots of sun, water as needed and let the tree move at it's own pace. And, thanks to everyone on this forum, who gave me advice and support. I probably would have killed my trees without your help. If anyone is interested, I can take some digital pics and post them. narcnh
...See More
Root stock or basal
Q
Comments (11)
Thank you Christopher for clearing up the "conventional wisdom" about root stock. It is interesting to me, because I gardened with & around roses for at least 10 years before it dawned on me that "root stock" is just another rose, period (I think I had the vague idea it was some sort of unique underground rose which was dangerous!). Many of them are old roses, thus the canard about them always having 7 leaflets. I guess the "green color" is specific to one rose used for rootstock in one place and at one period. I was also told they were always once bloomers, which of course is not correct either (I have a lovely bush of some sort of odorata which I believe was root stock on some long gone rose, and of course it is a re-bloomer - pic below - it is of course the white one). I find it so interesting how roses - how to prune them, how to care for them (MUST be sprayed every 2 weeks!), what root stock is, accumulated such a large baggage of "old wives tales". Most of the tales seem to pertain only to mid 20th century HTs, but it amazes me how they persist. Sad, because they scare people off trying to grow roses sometimes. Thank heavens that there are many new roses which truly are "easy care", and also that the old old roes are becoming more popular (at least here in No Calif.- the warm weather types are so easy to grow it is almost embarrassing). Jackie
...See More
tommortell
17 years ago
I just now yanked three suckers away from my Black Mission
Fig and each of them had small roots near the bottom of their
stems. I cut off all but the top two leaves. They are now
in tree pots. I will keep them in shade under a tree for a
month. I guess that they will survive.

So those suckers might be usefull!
0
figtreeundrgrnd
17 years ago
I've been trying to encourage fruit from my three y/o fig and I want to keep this bush manageable so I've been yanking suckers. I've potted two of the suckers that had roots and, voila! much to my happy surprise they're growing!
All I have to do now is control myself! This can be habit forming!>)
0
ponnie1996
17 years ago
what exactly are suckers?
0
bjs496
17 years ago
suckers are trees that grow from the base or below the soil line of the parent tree.
0
mareas
17 years ago
Here are some suckers:
{{gwi:788452}}
Ones I was very grateful to find on my Violette de Bordeaux cutting! ~m'
0
ponnie1996
17 years ago
and you just yank it? you dont just cut it?

I have one growing that looks very similar to the picture above. I just assumed it was another branch off shoot.
0
leon_edmond
17 years ago
Nice sucker picture. It's more like a little twist and snap, rather then a yank. Sometimes these suckers grow from beneath the soil line inbetween the tangle of roots. It's simple enough to just snap them off then try to snip them with something. They often grow back. Periodically remove them the same way when you see them sprouting. They are also a good source for future plants. Often the base of the suckers will have adventicious roots. If you pot them up and keep them moist, they will root into new trees for you.
0
tommortell
17 years ago
Two of the three suckers grew new leaves.
I gradually moved them to full sun and they
are growing now. The third one has a green
bud on its tip, so I will keep it and hope
for leaves.
0

Suckers from roots

Comments (10)

girlfromthegarden

socal23

Related Discussions

tommortell

figtreeundrgrnd

ponnie1996

bjs496

mareas

ponnie1996

leon_edmond

tommortell

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US