I would like to understand what I need to do to promote the trunk to grow thicker and how to promote foliage growth in the canopy. You know the plant's vitality level is on the poor side or you wouldn't be asking after it, and that's why the canopy is sparse and the trunk thin. Unless it has a pest problem, all it really needs is some modifications of the cultural influences (light, temp, soil/ air/ water relations, fertility, air movement, so the influences are as close as possible to the plant's sweet spot. The best thing you could do for the plant is move it outdoors as soon as or whenever temperatures allow. Nights reliably above 55* for full time and any time temps are above 60-65*. I'm not sure what type of medium it's in, but it should drain freely and the medium should hold very little excess water. Excess water is water that fills the pores between soil particles toward the bottom of the pot, which limits the roots' oxygen supply and sets the stage for fungal root infections. The pot it's in now will tip easily, so I would opt for a larger pot and use some bricks in the bottom as ballast, which will also reduce the amount of excess water the medium can/will hold. I would plan a repot as soon as the timing is appropriate, during which I would correct all root issues and reestablish the plant in a high quality grow medium to replace the medium it's in now. At the same time you repot, I would prune the top 1/3 - 1/2 of the canopy back hard, cutting the visually heavy (thick) branches at the top back severely and not doing much with the bottom 1/2 - 2/3 of the tree in terms of pruning until later in the summer when the tree has recovered from the root work. Fertilizing regularly with a quality soluble synthetic fertilizer like Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 is the best bet. That's what I use and you won't likely find better for the 95% plus of your containerized plants which will respond to it enthusiastically. That's a rough outline. Let me know if you want more specific info in select areas or have questions; or, if you want to see images of some of the work I do on my own figs. Plants that grow with little enthusiasm are very close to the break-even point in terms of the amount of energy (food) they create from the sun's energy as opposed to the amount of energy consumed during respiration. To accomplish your goals, your focus should be on making it easier for the plant to deal with the cultural hand you're dealing. Since the plant can't change it's needs, it's up to the grower to make the adjustments. If a grower was given a grade, the whole of his/her efforts on which (s)he would be judged, would be no more than the effectiveness with which limiting factors are ferreted out and the degree to which they're mollified. That's the view from here, YMMV. Al

Joann, we would love to see pictures of your cypress trees! also, if i am correct, the upper elevations can be slightly warmer during cold snaps for two reasons- the cold wind tends to whip through the valley, while the mountainsides and hillsides are more protected. Secondly, the colder air settles down lower in the valley (slightly). temperatures where we live in bluffdale (near the jordan) are usually a degree cooler. ps, does anyone know how to subscribe to threads, or access my recently viewed/written posts? (as in other forums)

i wasnt aware you could contact peeps direct through this forum ... anyway ... i would never place a tree in a black pot where the pot could heat up in the sun ... if and when you go to sun.. put the pot behind something so its shaded ... cool.. but the plant is in sun .... and i doubt you need constant fert with a tree ... unless in watering.. you run its all out the bottom every time you flood the pot.. and i doubt you are doing that indoors ... lastly . i would not repot this time of year.. especially if you do take it outside.. why stress it ... and then take it outside ans stress it.. etc ... and do harden it off properly if it goes outside ... this is all general tree lore ... the rules dont really need to vary by plant in most cases ... otherwise.. i dont do AZ and i dont do mango .. ken

I'm not sure of what Jordan (z7) motivation may be, but there seems to be advice/opinion offered in search of a question. If recent statements are referring to what I posted, I specifically mentioned herbicide drift onto smooth barked tree trunks, as might (and often does) when one is applying glyphosate or other herbicides to mulch rings or the ground around trees. That's a very different thing versus herbicide drift onto foliage. Many gardeners - and licensed commercial pesticide applicators - do not recognize that cells in a tree's trunk (especially smoother bark trees like Beech, Yellowwood, Magnolia, etc.) can absorb herbicide. The result is not immediately evident, but death of cells can occur nonetheless. Translocation of the herbicide will result in effects elsewhere in the tree. Providing accurate information that doesn't apply here - well, I don't quite know what to think of that.