Hello All : I apologize for another long post. I will divide this post into a response to answers received from the previous post followed by several additional questions followed by a recalculation to correct the volume/cost of the gritty mix and present some weight values for the 10, 15, and 25 gallon container sizes discussed previously when filled with dry/wet gritty mix. Here goes: Response to previous answers: Thanks to everyone for their comments to my previous post. Thank you Ohiofem for correctly pointing out the previous calculation of dollar per gallon was incorrect because the stated volume of mix, 7 ft^3, prepared from a 50 lb bag of turface, a 50 lb bag of Gran-I-Grit, and a 3 cubic foot bag of fir bark was incorrect . My memory for the combined volume of 1 bag of each component was not correct. I also noticed in my previous post that while the result of 52.4 gallons resulting from the conversion of 7 cubic feet of actual mix was numerically correct I did inadvertently leave out a factor (1 liter/1000 ml) in the calculation shown in the previous post, which would not have given the stated result. Sorry for the confusion. As suggested by Ohiofem I would be able to make the gritty mix more cheaply if I could find a local source for the pine/fir bark. When I first started trying to put the gritty mix together I experimented with the Reptile bark (~0.93 cubic foot size bag) some are using to build the mix that I bought at a local pet store. However, it seemed that by the time I screened the material I was throwing large amounts out because the size was not correct. Therefore, since I have a number of trees I just bought the same type Al T uses but there is of course the issue of shipping and handling which increases the cost. So far I have not been able to get a local Lowes or other box store to bring in the bark so I can get it cheaper. I have also, unsuccessfully, tried to get local nurseries to bring in some of the bark with their regular orders. This is in part why I would like to get quantitative information about how well the gritty mix is expected to outperform the 5-1-1. I am assuming I can find the bark needed for the 5-1-1 locally and no screening is required. Therefore, if general plant performance in 5-1-1 is only slightly different than in the gritty mix then perhaps I should switch to the 5-1-1. However, if the gritty mix is far and away more superior and I will get such better growth then perhaps I need to find a way to deal with the gritty mix problems (weight, price, size of container to use, reduced number of plants to transfer into the mix, etc). The consensus seems to be that while the gritty mix is viewed as superior for figs and it seems plants in general, the 5-1-1 mix is being used more frequently for growing fig trees. The preference for the 5-1-1 mix seems to be primarily the lighter weight for the same volume of mix allowing easier movement for larger container volumes of potted trees, ease of finding the components for the 5-1-1, and cheaper cost of building the 5-1-1 mix (I have a lot of trees: the revised calculations below for gritty mix of ~ $100 for ~ 67 gallons of gritty mix would not be enough to pot all my fig trees let alone other plants I currently have). It has been noted in response to my previous post that figs grow like weeds in the 5-1-1 mix. Unfortunately, I have not had any replies from someone growing fig trees in the gritty mix. If I correctly read previous replies it seems one can get 2 growing years out of one batch of 5-1-1, which sounds good since I thought it must be made fresh every year. Doing a quick calculation for the 10, 15, and 25 gallon containers for the number of fig trees I have indicates that I would need to invest the following amounts at the current price of ~ $100 for ~ 67 gallons of gritty mix (see detailed calculations below) to prepare enough gritty mix to pot each fig tree into the container size specified below. 10 gallon pot: $150.55 15 gallon pot: $225.82 25 gallon pot: $376.37 The breakdown would be: 10 gallon pot: 1.63 bags of bark + 3.46 bags of turface + 8.01 bags of Gran-I-Grit 15 gallon pot: 2.44 bags of bark + 5.28 bags of turface + 12.24 bags of Gran-I-Grit 25 gallon pot: 4.07 bags of bark + 8.80 bags of turface + 20.40 bags of Gran-I-Grit Conclusion : I need to find cheaper ingredients, use smaller containers, graft multiple varieties onto 1 tree to reduce the number of overall trees needing mix, drive to oakhill gardens to buy numerous bags of bark which if I remember the price correctly will cut the price of the bark in half: costs as much to ship it as it does to buy it, or find a cheaper mix that can work as near as effectively as the gritty mix as possible. This is another reason why I would like to get quantitative information about how well the gritty mix is expected to outperform the 5-1-1. Several Additional Questions: Question: Am I correct in remembering that the polymer containing moisture control peat based soils are also not good because of the �pudding argument� advanced when discussing adding perlite to peat based soils to make the soils drain excess water better? Or does the polymer absorb enough water so as not to allow a significant perched water table? Even if the polymer inhibits the perched water table is compaction of the peat based material severely limiting to roots and thus growth of the plant? Question: I may have missed this in previous posts from Al T or others but approximately what volume of a 50 lb bag of turface should I expect to lose from the screening process? I have asked in previous posts but have not received an answer. I would like to estimate how much higher the cost of the mix will be when considering the loss of turface due to screening. Question: Is there a way I can get the same benefits of the gritty mix and decrease the weight of the mix? Could I incorporate horticultural grade perlite, available locally, into the mix? If so what ratio of bark:turface:granite:perlite should I use? Question: Can the effective life time of the 5-1-1 be extended if after the second year (or even after the first year) the mix is sifted through insect screen to remove small particles resulting from breakdown of the peat/bark? Once removed by the insect screen, could the peat/bark fraction simply be replenished with fresh material by estimation of how much of each has been removed, which would come from the knowledge of the total volume of each that initially went into the preparation of the mix? I am assuming the peat fraction is the part that will be primarily decomposing into small particles and need replacement? I am thinking this may be able to be done if fresh 5-1-1 mix is made so that a plant is transferred into the fresh mix allowing the old mix to dry so it can be broken up and sifted. Question: (I didn�t receive a reply from the last post) I last did root pruning in spring 2011 and so I am planning to again root prune this year. I have noticed that for the last few years my trees tend to break dormancy around the end of February. Unfortunately, this means I should root prune (I think) toward mid February. However, mid February is still too cold outside to work comfortably for extended periods of time especially if I will be washing off peat based soil from roots to transfer into the gritty mix. In order to rinse any remaining peat based soil off of roots how long may I keep the roots in a bucket of water (instead of spraying with a hose as I did the last time I root pruned) without risk of killing the roots. I figure in this way I can gently raise and lower the roots in the bucket to release the last bits of soil after I remove the tree from the container or if I need to I can use my hand within the bucket of water to quickly remove the soil. I could set this up inside the garage to shield against cool/cold weather. Gritty Mix Recalculations: Below are revised calculations for the gritty mix. The next section of this post is a listing of the density: mass per volume of each of the components of the gritty mix. The density information for the Gran-I-Grit and Fir Bark were obtained by calling the companies, The North Carolina Granite Corporation for Gran-I-Grit and Shasta Forest Products for Fir Bark. The density information for Turface was obtained from technical specifications obtained from the company website: Profile Products, LLC. Density values: Gran-I-Grit (dry): 2250 lbs per cubic yard, Turface (dry): 36 +/- 2 lbs per cubic foot, and Fir Bark (dry): 54 lbs per 3 cubic feet Conversion of the densities to pounds per gallon: Gran-I-Grit: 2250 lbs/yd^3 * (1 yd)^3/(3 ft)^3 * (1 ft)^3/(12 inches)^3 * (1 inch)^3/(2.54 cm)^3 * (1 cm)^3/1 ml * 1000 ml/1 liter * 3.78 liter/1 gallon = (2250 x 1000 x 3.78) / (27 x 1728 x 16.387064) = 11.12412 lbs/gallon ~ 11.12 lbs/gallon Turface: 36 lbs/ft^3 * (1 ft)^3/(12 inches)^3 * (1 inch)^3/(2.54 cm)^3 * (1 cm)^3/1 ml * 1000 ml/1 liter * 3.78 liter/1 gallon = (36 x 1000 x 3.78) / (1728 x 16.387064) = 4.8056198 lbs/gallon ~ 4.80 lbs/gallon Fir Bark: 54 lbs/3 ft^3 * (1 ft)^3/(12 inches)^3 * (1 inch)^3/(2.54 cm)^3 * (1 cm)^3/1 ml * 1000 ml/1 liter * 3.78 liter/1 gallon = (54 x 1000 x 3.78) / (3 x 1728 x 16.387064) = 2.4028099 lbs/gallon ~ 2.40 lbs/gallon Calculation of the equivalent volume of Gran-I-Grit and Turface using the previously calculated densities: Gran-I-Grit: 50 lb bag Volume = 50 lbs / 11.12412 lbs/gallon = 4.4947376 gallons Converting gallons to cubic feet of Gran-I-Grit: 4.4947376 gallons * 3.78 liters / 1 gallon * 1000 ml / 1 liter * 1 cm^3 / 1 ml * (1 inch)^3 / (2.54 cm)^3 * (1 ft)^3 / (12 inches)^3 = (4.4947376 x 3.78 x 1000) / (16.387064 x 1728) = 0.600 ft^3 Turface: 50 lb bag Volume = 50 lbs / 4.8056198 lbs/gallon = 10.404485 gallons Converting gallons to cubic feet of Turface: 10.404485 gallons * 3.78 liters / 1 gallon * 1000 ml / 1 liter * 1 cm^3 / 1 ml * (1 inch)^3 / (2.54 cm)^3 * (1 ft)^3 / (12 inches)^3 = 10.404485 x 3.78 x 1000 / (16.387064 x 1728) = 1.3888889 ft^3 ~ 1.39 ft^3 Bark: 3 cubic feet bag as purchased Converting cubic feet of bark to gallons of bark: 3 ft^3 * (12 inches)^3 / (1 ft)^3 * (2.54 cm)^3 / (1 inch)^3 * 1 ml / 1cm^3 * 1 liter / 1000 ml * 1 gallon / 3.78 liters = (3 x 1728 x 16.387064) / (3.78 x 1000) = 22.473688 gallons ~ 22.47 gallons Summary: Turface 50 lbs 1.39 ft^3 10.40 gallons 4.80 lbs/gallon Gran-I-Grit 50 lbs 0.60 ft^3 4.49 gallons 11.12 lbs/gallon Bark 54 lbs 3 ft^3 22.47 gallons 2.40 lbs/gallon Therefore, to make the gritty mix using the entire 3 cubic foot bag of fir bark would require 5 bags of Gran-I-Grit and 2.158 bags of Turface and would result in: Gran-I-Grit: 5 x 0.60 ft^3 = 3 ft^3; 5 x 4.49 gallons ~ 22.45 gallons Turface: 2.158 x 1.39 ft^3 = 2.999 ft^3 ~ 3 ft^3; 2.158 x 10.40 gallons = 22.44 gallons Fir Bark: 3 ft^3; 22.47 gallons 3 ft^3 + 3 ft^3 + 3 ft^3 = 9 ft^3 or ~22.47 x 3 = 67.41 gallons of mix. The next section calculates the cost of the gritty mix when combining 1 bag of fir bark, 5 bags of Gran-I-Grit, and 2.158 bags of Turface. Gran-I-Grit: 5 bags x $8/bag = $40 Turface: 2.158 bags x $8/bag = $17.264 ~ $17.26 Fir Bark: 1 bag x $35 (includes shipping and handling) = $35 Total: $92.26 Price per gallon of gritty mix: $92.26/67.41 gallons = $1.368/gallon ~ $1.37/gallon For comparison: 64 quarts * 1 gallon / 4 quarts = 16 gallons of peat based miracle grow soil locally purchased for ~ $12. Price per gallon of miracle grow peat based soil: $12/16 gallons = $0.75 / gallon. The table below calculates the weight of the gritty mix when dry for each of the container sizes discussed in the original question posted. The table also calculates the weight of the mix when wet assuming I remember correctly that the weight increases by ~ 25% when wet. 10 Gallon Container: 3.33 gal Grit * 11.12 lbs/gal = 37.06 lbs + 3.33 gal turface * 4.80 lbs/gallon = 15.98 lbs + 3.33 gal fir bark * 2.40 lbs/gallon = 7.99 lbs = 61.03 total lbs dry. 15 Gallon Container: 5 gal Grit * 11.12 lbs/gal = 55.60 lbs + 5 gal turface * 4.80 lbs/gallon = 24.00 lbs + 5 gal fir bark * 2.40 lbs/gallon = 12.00 lbs = 91.60 total lbs dry. 25 Gallon Container: 8.33 gal Grit * 11.12 lbs/gal = 92.66 lbs + 8.33 gal turface * 4.80 lbs/gallon = 39.98 lbs + 8.33 gal fir bark * 2.40 lbs/gallon = 19.99 lbs = 152.63 total lbs dry. An increase of weight of 25% when wet gives: 10 gallon: 61.03 + 0.25(61.03) = 76.28 lbs ~ 76 lbs 15 gallon: 91.60 + 0.25(91.60) = 114.50 lbs ~ 115 lbs 25 gallon: 152.63 + 0.25(152.63) = 190.78 lbs ~ 191 lbs The table below indicates the price equivalent of using the prepared gritty mix as described (~67.41 gallons) compared to the price equivalent of using locally purchased miracle grow. Example calculation for: $ Equivalent of Gritty Mix Used per Pot (10 gallon pot): 10 gallon/67.41 gallons * $92.26 = $13.69 $ Equivalent of Miracle Grow (mir grow) Peat Based Mix (10 gallon pot): 10 gallon/16 gallons * $12 = $7.50 The first column below is the container size, the second column is the gritty mix price, the third column is the miracle grow price, the fourth column is the difference in price between the gritty mix used and the miracle grow used, and the fifth column is the percentage of gritty mix used to fill each container. 10 gallon: $13.69 $7.50 $6.19 (10/67.41)* 100 = 14.83% 15 gallon: $20.53 $11.25 $9.28 (15/67.41)* 100 = 22.25% 25 gallon: $34.21 $18.75 $15.46 (25/67.41)* 100 = 37.08% Therefore, for a 10 gallon, 15 gallon, and 25 gallon container: 67.41 gallons * 1 pot / 10 gallons = 6.741 ~ 6.5 pots per gritty mixture as made above. 67.41 gallons * 1 pot / 15 gallons = 4.494 ~ 4.5 pots per gritty mixture as made above. 67.41 gallons * 1 pot / 25 gallons = 2.6964 ~ 2.5 pots per gritty mixture as made above. Thanks everyone for your help! Brian

Bush is best anywhere outside central California.

Not Enough Sun.Needs 10 hours or more a day to be productive and ripe the fruits. Also If Kadota for sure,it will have a hard time ripening fruits in NJ,because they need just a little more heat than NJ can offer. A spot with full day sun (12 Hours),is needed,or change the cultivar to another,as Marseilles vs blk,Atreano,or LSU Gold. H2

Thank you all so very much. It is truly appreciated. I have decided to do the following. Mexican Sycamore, Apple, one Apricot, and Royal Empress seeds. My neighbors donÂt have anything and all think I am wasting my money. I wonÂt be doing a fig. I am afraid that it would be useless. The fact that I have an organic vegetable garden is good. I have really black soil already. Some of the tree saplings will be planted and fenced it there. I also have a well so water isnÂt a factor as yet. My vegetable garden is 25 feet by 70 so there is room. Now I am tilling another 40 by 70 for more vegetables. The success of this one now still growing is fantastic. I have about 200 pounds of blue Hubbards, maybe 150 pounds of butternut squash, some 20 small acorn squash, (donÂt know why they stayed so small) have to figure that one out next year, a freezer full of zucchini, string beans, yellow squash, and radishes still growing, so figure that out? Puzzles me on the radishes. Some are flowering, so are hard as a rock, and some are still eatable. I also have a lot of lettuce still. I planted several varieties, but no Boston Iceberg. I have as yet a 10 by 10 foot cluster of carrots and another of beets. One of the beets was so big I couldnÂt place my hands around it completely. It was huge. We ate and gave plenty already but I still have to harvest them and put them away for the winter. The butternut will stay on the ground until it turns completely yellow. The blue hubbards are still growing but turning blue now that the nights are so cold. I picked one that weighed 15.5 pound and gave it to the neighbor that gave me the seeds. There are many more bigger than that. I had only one cross with the butternut and it weighs 19 pounds. The rest are in the garden waiting. The zucchini are still prolific. I picked another 10 large ones today. Amazing how they love it up here. My tomatoes are just now starting to do well. That is really strange. I will pick them green and place in a cool dark place to eat as they ripen. The cold nights must be a factor with them somehow. I used horse, steer, a little chicken, and thatÂs it for the manure. I didnÂt use anything else at all. I watered lightly every day. About 15 minutes at night and sometimes a little again in the early am. Usually just before the sun was completely up. So, the reason for telling this here is because I am so happy to have a great soil for next year and I feel that the right trees will make it with little effort. Once again I must give you all a great big thank you for your time, advice, and help. Nantinki