Hi Holly, you're welcome! If you try soft wood cuttings, the wraps won't work. You'll need to either do something like Mel Hulse suggested in The Rose Rustler's Tool Kit (linked below), or the bottle method others have had success with and has been offered here on the forums. My micro climate doesn't work covering cuttings and it's arid enough that uncovered, most soft wood cuttings fail, so I can't offer you advice on that method. If the material you wrapped wasn't sufficiently dormant, it may not have contained sufficient stored nutrients to carry it through the rooting process. They won't absorb nor generate food until they have roots and leaves, so the several weeks required between cutting and wrapping them, and formation of new leaves and roots all require the food the cuttings already contain. That's why in my garden (climate) I don't have success with most until late December to mid January as they don't shut down enough to contain what they need until then. In particularly warmer "winters", they may not store enough nutrients at all, as they never really "shut down". In colder climates, they could probably be successfully wrapped earlier and even much later than here because they remain dormant longer. Mine began growing and flowering in February, so my window was quite short this year. I did have success with cuttings taken from my sister's garden in Newhall up in the Santa Clarita Valley, where it's been colder so the roses didn't begin pushing until a few weeks after mine did here in Encino. If you're seeing roots out the soil bottoms, sure, lift them higher, exposing more of the cuttings. You might want to do that first while leaving them in the dappled light, unless it's very damp/humid in your garden. In wetter conditions, you can safely put them in greater sunlight without the fear of them frying. I'm experiencing a bit of fry now that it's getting a lot more intense, but the only ones not succeeding are the ones I expected to have issues with. I wrapped some I've never had much luck with to see if that would vary from year to year. I also wrapped material which wasn't in the greatest shape to experiment. Those are the ones which aren't doing as well, but most are coming along as I expected them to. A few probably too well! The Smart and Final (great place!) 16 oz foam cups are what I've found the most cost effective and easiest to use until they out grow that size. Then I put them into gallons, but the 16 oz size is fine for quite a few weeks and I'm getting my third year of use out of most of them so they're particularly cost effective. Good luck! Kim Here is a link that might be useful: The Rose Rustler's Toolkit

Michal, thanks for taking the time and making the video. Whats amazing about fig wod is there are so many many ways to root them. Some work better than others for folks but having so many ways is great and gives one options to use what they have on hand and not spend a lot in doing so if there are budget constraints for some of us. I would suppose the cheapest way and its worked for me is one you mention in the video just stick the stick inground yup it works, one spring day i did this amongst my hostas and it rooted just fine after a good spell. For the curious and i never added up percentages to see how one worked over the other but they have all worked for me in past seasons i dont really root anymore scion as im basically done with that aspect if i need a duplicate i airlayer now off parent tree for myself. Ive rooted brown and green scion mostly brown in Spahgnum Moss Expandable Peat Cups (used for rooting garden seeds) Water Dirt and or potting soil (simply stuck inground or in parent pot) Perlite and potting soil Simple baggie method with newpaper as wrap ive also seen long time ago a bunch of sticks put in a 5 gallon bucket filled with water an aquarium airstone in a garage and most rooted. As i was doing this in seasons past i never did the bleach thing it just never occured to me i just rinsed the sticks under tap water to clean them and never had any mold problems suppose im lucky in that department after what ive been reading last season or so. Ive had dissapointments oh yes some scion just not do anything, some turn mushy and soft (the green ones ) and some make it to the cups and get overwatered by me only to go kaput! Hopefully in near future i will be getting last pieces scion that i will be rooting i know some will say yeah right but for me its true least rooting scion and for the last time i will use baggie, expandable peat pot and SM and i will get 1 plant to grow i should i better im confident although im not an expert then im finally done with scion and time to thin out a plant or 2 i dont want for 1 reason or another. I suppose many of you will come to this and some will carry on and keep going those that have the room perhaps and even those that do not . In end its all fun much fun for me i never got to technical with rooting them but thats just me as we are all different . Michal again thanks for taking the tiime to make that video and im sure you have helped many and i always look forward to seeing more video's, perhaps 1 day i will make a simple video just showing some of my plants. Wishing everyone a good fig season to come. __________________ Martin Near Chicago,Illinois Zone 5 Ebay ID , Me ( Dieseler6z92 ) Wife ( Cubandaisy )

Last year was my first full-born effort at rooting (after 2 years of experimenting), and I had really good success. Took 450 cuttings, and I now have 410 rooted roses. I am using coir medium along with a cheap HD timer and some misters I got off of EBAY. I bought a cheap plastic shelf system from Target, and placed the cuttings on the shelf. Misters are tied up to the shelving and ran from 8:00 am to about 7:00 pm, on 2 minutes off 10. I also have about 50 rooted cuttings in the basement right now from cuttings I received from Univ Cal-Davis on 11/4/05. I am using a "bastardized" version of the process George Mander has explained numerous times here. Biggest difference is I again am using coir. Here is a link to show you a rooted cutting I got from UC-Davis in November. Please note it had just received one of its daily mistings. I do this to cut down on mites. Here is a link that might be useful: Rooted cutting received 11/4/05 from UC-Davis

Kippy, with your cuttings in 1g pots, you are doing what my friend Dennis does when he propagates. To cover the cuttings, he puts three or four small stakes into the soil around the rim of the pot and suspends a one-gallon clear baggie over them. For everyone else, do NOT check on the cuttings. No tugging, no lifting, no pulling ... just leave them alone. If you are using clear or translucent pots, roots will show on the side of the pot soon enough, or the cuttings turn black, whichever comes first. When I teach propagation workshops, I clearly explain to my students that the 'wait and watch' part of the process is definitely the most difficult thing about it. I only open the container to remove any fallen leaves or black cuttings, then I put the top right back on and walk away. I'm having good results so far this year ... I hope this is an indication of a very good propagation season overall. Connie