they are treated no different than any other tree in my dry sand ... i would say they TOLERATE wet.. more than your comment of LIKING wet ... as always.. such comments.. are about fully established trees ... and where they plant themselves.. we really walk a fine line.. due the the issues of transplant.. where we mess it all up ... and you understand.. a transplant that size.. can not dry out for about two years .... afterward.. once established .. they should be able to handle it... you know about planting in bad clay??? we have given you that planting guide .. yes???? my 12 year.. planted as a 6 footer.. is .. w/o a scale.. 1/3 to 1/2 less than the picture .... at 20 feet i wouldnt worry about any tree lifting pavement ... they go in the dumpster if you dont buy them ... they do lose their needles.. nudey in winter.. which is cool .. my problem with them .. well i only have one left.. is/was early sprouting.. in z5 MI.. followed by frost/freeze ... once a year.. they can cope .... but one bad year.. it happened twice .. so bud.. hard frost ... die-back of new growth .. rebud .. hard frost/freeze ... dead ... but i think it may have old historical problems hold the receipt.. go for it ... what do you have to lose ... ken

My secret is I plant the green side up ;-) With your soil compaction and rocks you should dig very wide holes and mound the soil so it is up off the ground creating a convex mound to plant within. You'll probably be ok but in the future that's what you'll want to do. At the same time Ryan, when you have your hole dug, hammer some slits about eight around the hole so the roots have somewhere to go into the hard clay. Use whatever tool it takes to do this. Your mulch is fine except just pull it back from the trunk an inch or two, that's all we're saying to do. See ya, Dax

Mine have responded well to bare root planting in the ground in the fall. May as well just stick them where they are going to end up if you can. Pots can be a little tough on them. Hot roots and compacted soil they do not like. IF your permanent spot isn't ready get some non compacting soil mix to put in your pot, place it in some shade (dappled type) and they should be fine with some periodic watering.

In our climate during winter, trees are dormant. If the soil stays above 45F, some root growth may take place. Evergreens, both needle and broadleaf, transpire, that is they lose water from their foliage the year round, and this has to be replaced, even in winter or foliage will dessicate. The metabolic processes that take place during the dormant period rely on stored energy. Come spring, green growth begins, and this relies on stored energy until the foliage is able to photosynthesize and produce energy. The energy produced early in the growing season mostly goes toward the plants metabolic processes, later it is used to replace energy stores. If a plant doesn't receive enough sun during the growing season it will grow poorly, relative to ones receiving adequate sun. It's energy reserves won't be as great. Most woody plants grow best in full sun, a lot tolerate less, and a very few require shade and shelter. The species you want to grow are full sun lovers. They will tolerate less than perfect conditions and thereby be less than perfect specimens, leastwise the way we humans reckon. I'll repeat what I said above, what you propose is eminently doable, I've done the very same thing and I am most satisfied with the results.