They look like Nigella damascena seedlings ie Love-in-a-Mist. The leaves are discoloured by some feature of cultivation eg lack of nutrients, age etc. Healthy plants are all green. These are hardy annuals and they do not transplant well since they have a long yellow taproot. Your best chance of getting them to grow in your garden is to tip them carefully from the pot keeping the soil ball intact and planting the whole thing. The top one in your picture is about to flower and will very likely self sow. The seed pods are pretty.

Check this thread... tropical thought has posted about this plant recently, if it's the one you have. Even before she posted that, I was coming to the same conclusion about W. orientalis. It grows well in an unheated greenhouse but although it's not having trouble with the cold we've had (in the mid 20's), it needs the heat and close atmosphere of the greenhouse here in the redwoods, and doesn't thrive without the heat. Also, like other Woodwardias, it looks best in a hanging basket because its fronds hang so low. Here is a link that might be useful: Woodwardia orientalis thread This post was edited by thefreddo on Wed, Jul 2, 14 at 14:38

I can only give you the same advice as what you'll find in all the other "what is wrong with my tomato plants" posts here. The 'what you need to do' (treatment) is the same regardless of which bacteria or fungus is causing the problem unless it is Late Blight. And since you say the plants look good otherwise I strongly doubt it is Late Blight. Are you using a good fungicide on them as recommended? You should be. Weekly per the label instructions of whichever one you choose to use. Why are you leaving the affected leaves on the plant? That only makes the problem worse and spreads it. They need to be removed as soon as they develop and disposed of out of the garden. How long have the plants had this problem? Is it getting worse or staying the same? Contact your local county AG extension office and ask if Late Blight has been ID'd in your area. If so then that is a good indication of your problem and the plants are quickly lost no matter what you do. If not, then what you do is spray the plants, keep them cleaned of damaged affected leaves, improve the air circulation around and through them, and keep them going with lots of TLC care until you can harvest. Good luck. Dave

I tried to copy and paste from my excel form but as I have Genus, Species, and Cultivar in different columns, but it didn't paste very well. I was thinking of a berm on the south side (neighbour). Below are some photos of the corner, I have planted Picea pungens glauca 'Royal Knight' in the corner so far, but I struggled between that one and Pinus nigra due to the latter's density and size. As you can see in the photos, there are a couple of stumps that we have to deal with. The large one was a dead maple tree but we do not know how long ago it died, and the other was a nasty Buckthorn. To begin the project, after we cleared the area, we rebuilt the century old cedar post and split rail fence and put back the old wire fence against it. The stone wall doesn't extend all of the way to the fence as can be seen in the photo below. View from my porch. garage on the left and barn on the right. I took the pic as a truck happened to be driving by; across the street, the neighbour's vehicles in his driveway are also visible. Closer, planted 'Royal Knight' can be seen. Looking along the south side from the corner (new neighbours soon). Looking along the east wall Please excuse the mess as this is a work in progress. In the area, there is also a 20' diameter garden (existing) and in the centre I planted Chamaecyparis nootkatensis 'Pendula'.