That's a big word Ken - expert!

It's no myth. Growth stages go in cycles. Climates that freeze - that's when the root growth stops. Now I can't tell you just how many days or minutes it takes for a tree to stop growing through the winter months, but in Portland, OR - where I lived, (and the trees are certainly on the much huger side) I was told by fellow co-workers that they keep growing all through the winter. I'm sure it's also relatable to perennials, whether they be bulbs that need dividing more often, or whether it's a woody plant such as Lavender that has reached it's peak (all plants max out at some level).

So - that's what I say. Portland, of course being notorious for rain during winter and I'm sure that too plays into the equation well. Also, it's said, that the Willamette Valley out there 'has just enough chill' for fruiting plants such as Apples, etc. - so Portland certainly has a very special climate (or at least one I'd prefer over my own). Portland of course is zone 8(a/b) I forget. Kind of a ramble but an answer in there somewhere.

Dax

An expert is just someone who isn't a pert any more.

Yes, roots do go on growing until the soil temperature gets close to zero.

Resin

So Resin if I transplanted a 6ft 'Hoopsii' this October this conifer could put on new root growth through the Winter and supply it with enough moisture along with regular wartering to make it to Spring. Having new root growth available in the Spring to boost this conifer along for seasional growth would be better then transplanting in Spring because it will spend most of the season developing new root growth with little or no plant growth on top.
This seems to make sense. In order to be successful a lot of things have to come into play. Sound rootball,watering and mulching to mention a few.
Are there any expert opinions on this? The general consenus on this form leans toward Spring transplanting as the way to go.

Dave

I thought you were zone 6 Dave? Regardless, I do believe in any freezing climate and prior to transplanting - in the fall the dripline of the plant you wish to move, should be hit, driven' with a spade at 4 or 5 or so points around that dripline encouraging fibrous root production for spring transplant. I'm sure most of the time it would be safe to do the entire project during early fall, but maybe you could lose a conifer and should you have done the work in Spring, your chances would have multiplied ten-fold.

That's my answer thanks to a lot of peoples opinions such as bboy - coldandhardy - etc.

Dax

IN ZONE 5 ... i do all my conifer transplants in fall ... trees in April.. mostly because i run out of time to do both ...

i seems to me.. in my non-scientific poll.. those who say only spring transplant.. are zones higher than 5 ... but then their spring starts in February .. lol ..

one must also consider that a transplanted tree .. is in no means below the frost line.. so it probably doesn't take much soil freeze to 'turn off' the roots ...

if i move in mid October.. give or take.. i have about 90 days before ground freeze.. and then another 90 after thaw, before summer... heat.. two cool seasons IMHO before heat ...

dax ... i tried the root prune thingee.. and asked here also ... i came to the conclusion that it just stresses the plant twice .. so it is in worse shape for the ultimate transplant ... of course i am talking only about SMALL specimens... if i had a BIG tree/conifer to move ... some advance root pruning might be advisable.. but i have no experience with such ...

ken

I think you're right Ken, no doubt about it. And yep, I'm constantly moving plants, or I should say I have done it always in the past. Didn't matter if spring summer or fall, digging a good rootball of course is a major factor which leads me to your previous 'points' of being careful with fresh grafts - I also agree that these plants certainly need time to mature and at least to a gallon size 'amount' of roots for permanent relocation. Lots of things tie well together with this thread. Probably a lot of information that is useful to many folks.

I also agree "hypothetically" that (90) days is plenty of time to transplant just about everything assuming they, the plants, have adequate root systems for the transplanting.

Good thread.

Take care,

Dax

P.s. my guess on the slowing and/or stopping of root growth from cold weather would have been one week only. Just an 'amateurs' guess though! lol - See ya Ken.

"So Resin if I transplanted a 6ft 'Hoopsii' this October this conifer could put on new root growth through the Winter"

At least until the ground freezes, which I presume it will in z5

Resin

I have heard--I can't remember the source of the "information"--that different species have different potentials for root growth during "dormancy." I remember that maples have very good growth, and therefore are very good for fall planting, and that oaks have less root growth during "dormancy," and therefore are a bit riskier for fall transplanting.

--Spruce

Well, we all know a spring planting is OK for anything.

Still, timliness of overwintered material above ground can be a factor to a fast demise for the fact of plants breaking bud too early whether in a person's own garage or when purchasing nursery stock of which the nursery won't sell the plants until it's safe.

Fall in my opinion is great for anything deciduous and for potted conifers - not transplants however. Deciduous transplants, "yes".

That's zone 5 I'm speaking of.

Dax

I am leaning towards fall transplanting. I am in the same boat Ken is in. I don't have time in the Spring.
I successfully transplanted a 5ft Picea omorika 'Pendula' last October. I can't believe the root growth it put on in the 5 years it was in the ground. After I transplanted it I read somewhere that Picea omorika don't take well to moveing after established. The survival rate was not good.
Has anyone else heard this? I hovered over it like a mother hen and it pulled through. Even put on nice growth.
Dax your comments regarding when to transplant are in the ball park and generally regarded as the way to go. If I had a choice between Fall And Spring I would go for the Spring transplant. With regard to the 'Hoopsii'it will have a new location sometime in October. We will see how it goes. LOL.

Dave

My you are a headstrong bunch!
The reason you are confused and taking advice from strangers is that much too little research has been done on conifer root growth, because it's hard to do. Harder still to relate to soil temperature conditions, etc.
A good bit of research shows two root growth cycles, one in the spring before shoot growth gets going in earnest; and in the fall, after competing crown areas have gone dormant. But the roots do go dormant for winter. Whether that is due to soil temp, water availability, or the tree's inherent behavior is very difficult to sort out. So don't jump to conclusions.

pinetree ... what does this part mean: "and in the fall, after competing crown areas have gone dormant." ... do you mean that when competing deciduous trees lose their leaves giving more sun to the conifer ??? .... there is root growth???

and let me make it clear ... that i am not telling anyone that they should do this... i am sharing my experience in zone 5 ... Michigan ... i do NOT know if it will work in all zone 5.. i don't know if it will work a mile north of me.. etc ... just pondering the divergence of suggestions as to when conifers can be moved ...

one clue might be what your local tree services are doing ... all the major tree planters in my area .... do a lot of landscape planting in fall ... and surely they wouldn't be doing it if they thought losses would be high ...

and i am dealing in sand... i can water very late into the fall ... and not be too concerned about the soil freezing the roots into an ice cube .... i am sure that would be counter-indicated ....

ken

What I mean is that when buds have formed and gone dormant there is little competition within the tree for assimilates. So roots pretty much have it all to themselves for awhile.

Pretty much the same as the general pattern for hardy trees and shrubs. Existing roots do most elongating of whole year when overwintering terminal buds set and send a chemical signal to roots. With a tree in a dry climate or situation that has completed shoot growth and set dormant buds in summer root elongation surge may be underway by August. Not much happens in winter. Come spring new roots and shoots develop at same time, so root growth is less than in fall, when roots alone are getting all the available energy--the only time they have this luxury.