Should you prune fig trees to encourage a good crop?

16 years ago

I have a brown turkey fig which has in the past, produced massive amounts of extra large fruits. However, last year, the crop was very dissappointing, and most of the figs didn't start to mature until dec, when the nights were too cool for them to really sweeten up. It made a few during the summer, but just handfuls here and there, nothing like the limitless supply we had been getting the previous 2 years. The tree had had several branches when I planted it, these have grow up and out until it is now about 6 ft tall, and very well branched, with the branches spreading outward from the center kind of like a huge, open shrub. I have done nothing different to it, it recieves the same waterings and fertiliser that it always has, and always looks very green and healthy once it's leafed out in the spring. Just very few figs last year. I was wondering if fig trees should be pruned at all, or if removing the smaller side branches might help fruit production. This is my first experience growing figs, ande I'd sure like to enjoy buckets full of thse big sweet 3" figs like we did in '06. Any advice would be appreciated.

Dave

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Comments (5)

loslunasfarms
16 years ago
Sounds like a pruning problem. I have had a friend whos trees used to produce a truckload of figs every year. Last year they fruited terribly. I went to take a look and the tree had about 100 trunks, instead of 4-5 good ones with lots and lots of suckers.

Can you post pics please?
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
16 years ago
Your last repot was . . .?

Al
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Mika- A tree that size should be in at least a 5-gallon bucket, and yes, pinch off all forming figs. Figs need at least 70-85 days from bud stage to full-ripe stage, and those new figs that are forming so late in the season will never ripen. It's better to wait until next year to ripen a FEW figs on your young trees. The figs will form earlier each subsequent year until the tree settles in. However, weather conditions can affect this schedule. In cold years figs will form later. Winterize your trees -after they go dormant- in a very cool area, but try to keep them above freezing...around 40 degrees F. Your basement will probably be too warm. Your (unheated) garage will work. Water dormant trees just enough to keep the potting medium from drying out. Keep roots moist, but not wet. Containerized fig trees should be planted into a quick-draining mix, to prevent waterlogged roots. If your patio is warm and SUNNY, it might be possible to keep the trees growing all year, or, with a very short dormancy period. Pinching out the terminal bud will limit upwards growth and will allow dormant buds to break further down on the trunk, forming side branches. Check this forum for pruning tips, and other sites to show other pruning techniques. The above photo shows a tree that is stressed, with flagging leaves. I suspect that a larger container and some water have revived that tree. Keep you trees in some shade after re-potting until trees recover. Fig trees need a warm, full-sun exposure. Good luck with your trees. Frank
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Sounds like your trees can use a root pruning session....but, do it next spring, before bud-break, just as the dormancy period ends. It's not too difficult but it is messy. Lift the trees out of the original, 20-gallon containers, and mix up a new batch of potting medium, then start trimming the roots. I'd prune back all dead roots and then trim/reduce the root ball by about 1/3. Wash away most of the older, depleted, growing medium, and replant your trees into the original containers, working in the new growing mixture around the trimmed root ball. Water the trees to settle the medium around the roots. At the same time, I would also trim back/prune away any unwanted, or, overly long branches, twigs, etc. Prune your trees back to the size and shape that you want. Stake the newly potted trees if it's necessary. As buds start to break, and unfurl, I'd give the trees a very dilute shot of your favorite "tonic" or fertilizer. Trees should be rejuvenated for the 2015 growing season, although I would try to limit the size of the fig crop by nipping back all new growth to 6-8 leaves. Pinching out the terminal buds after the first 6-8 leaves will also limit the length of the new branches, and keep your trees within bounds. Good luck with your trees. Frank
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bjs496
16 years ago
Dave,

I assume from your post, the tree is planted in the ground. Either way, you should check the roots of your tree for rootknot nematodes. If you pull the soil back to expose some of the roots, the gals the nematodes create will look like a brown pearls on the roots. I am convinced that most ficus carica will root faster than nematodes can keep up with... especially when the weather is cool enough that the nematodes are largely inactive, but it is warm enough for root growth. Being in zone 10, however, the ground may not cool enough for RKN activity to slow down. Or, as is the case sometimes, the infestation in the ground is broad enough to be everywhere the roots grow. In these cases, the number of roots blocked with gals may be high enough to kill the tree.

It is possible the weather was sufficiently different to effect your crop. Last year was a very wet summer in Houston. The figs which were already beginning to grow before the rain hit, split. Most of the trees defoliated due to rust and did not recover enough to produce fruit afterwards. All in all it was an extremely poor year for fig production. Pruning the crown of your tree to let more light and air through will help deal with moist weather. In zone 10 it is probably too late to do any major pruning. You should consider only pruning what is absolutely necessary now. Then plan for a more significant pruning after this season.

~james
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
16 years ago
Duh! ;o) My bad.

Al
parrothead_fa
Original Author
16 years ago
Hmm, well this one now has 6-8 main trunks with lots of little side branchlets. The branches all come from a center node right above the soil line, the shape of the tree/shrub is rather reminiscent of a leggy spider on it's back. So perhaps this winter I will prune and shape it, seems a shame to let it get to tall so we can't reach the fruit anyhow. Do I prune off a lot of the small side shoots along the main trunks so the whole tree is more open, or just remove smaller thinner trunks entirely, leaving just 3 or 4 main ones? Just interested for future reference.
Yes, nematodes are a problem here, I mulch heavily which they say helps discourage them somewhat, but this tree has always looked healthy, huge green leaves and always very well leafed out, just didn't get much fruit at all last year. Thanks, Dave

Should you prune fig trees to encourage a good crop?

Comments (5)

loslunasfarms

tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)

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bjs496

tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)

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Should you prune fig trees to encourage a good crop?

Comments (5)

loslunasfarms

tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)

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bjs496

tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)

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parrothead_fa
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