Is Root pruning for Fig trees a good idea or not?
nkesh099
14 years ago
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agodieseler
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Fig Tree- invasive roots, keeping pruned to 5 ft-
Comments (20)I have been re-planting my orchard, pulling out old trees and planting new ones. I recently removed a pear that was about 8 feet away from a 4' tall fig tree I had planted two years ago. There were multiple, large fig roots mixed in with those of the pear. It is clear to me that this small fig still had highly invasive roots, so be careful....See Morevideo on root pruning of a fig tree
Comments (2)Once the roots/soil mass of a plant become congested beyond the point where the entire plant can be lifted from the container with roots and soil intact, the growth rate is reduced. It continues to become reduced as the plant becomes more congested. What the man in the video did wasn't really root-pruning and a full repot, it was much, much closer to simply potting up. Repotting, which usually includes bare-rooting, and potting up are distinctly different. Repotting ensures your plant will have at least the opportunity to grow to it's genetic potential within the limits of other cultural factors, but potting up ensures it cannot. When a plant becomes as horribly root-bound as the one in the clip, it's growth would have been negatively affected for a number of years prior, and will remain permanently affected until the condition is corrected. What the man in the video did to the tree, did not correct the problem. He returned the tree to a pot in sad shape and the tree will suffer for it. Trees that are only potted up are in continual decline, even in spite of what you the grower might look at as a growth spurt after you pot up. What you as a grower look at as a growth spurt is no spurt at all, it is only a plant suffering from depressed growth, returning to a growth rate a little closer to its genetic potential. Here is what really happens and how repotting vs potting up works: Imagine that plants can grow with a vitality level of 0-10, with 0 being a dead plant. We'll say that the best we can achieve in containers is a level of 9, for the sake of illustration. Over time, say 2-3 years, soils collapse and roots get congested, which negatively affects vitality levels. Let's say that over 3 years our plants decline to a vitality level of 5. When you bare root your plants and do a full repot, removing about half of the roots and concentrating on the larger roots, you can return your plant to a vitality level of 9, and you can do it indefinitely - every time you repot; but if you only pot up, you cannot return the plant to a vitality level of 9 - perhaps only 8 is attainable at first. Then, while both plants are again in decline over the same period, the plant that was potted up might slip to a vitality level of 4 while the repotted plant only slips to its usual 5. Potting up again only restores the potted up plant to a vitality level of 7. The plant slides again to a level of 3, and potting up restores it to 6. Then 2 restored to 5, then 1 restored to 4. This steady decline may not occur after potting up only 4-5 times, but the illustration is what actually occurs to containerized plants that are only potted up. The reason bonsai plants can remain at the peak of health for hundreds of years in tiny containers and be passed from generation to generation is primarily due to the fact they are always root-pruned and repotted and not potted up. Al...See MoreFiddle Leaf Fig tree Root Maintenance & Prune
Comments (2)"Is it ok to both prune and repot at the same time?" Yes. If your plant is healthy and your first root reduction requires removing a significant volume of roots, removing a commensurate volume of foliage can help keep the plant from indiscriminately shedding the leaves and branches IT will "decide" to shed. Many growers are very quick to repeat the current/conventional mantra that foliage shouldn't be reduced at transplant time; but w/o taking into consideration the fact that you're also going to remove a significant volume of roots, repeating the singsong mantra is rather meaningless. Your tree is an organism that receives chemical messengers that will tell it to shed foliage if the roots are significantly reduced, and roots if the canopy is significantly reduced. It's better to make the reductions yourself so you have the choice in the matter. It might not be all that significant for your tree, which only has the central stem; but it could be disastrous if you had a well-developed branch structure and the tree shed branches critical to the tree's eye appeal after you repotted. Typically, the first couple of repots end up being the most stressful because more work needs doing to get the root mass straightened out. Too, my repots are usually pretty severe; severe to the degree than I wouldn't suggest you try to emulate what I do. Because of that, I regularly prune quite hard when I repot or very soon after - as in as soon as I see new growth appearing. This really does little to slow development or growth of the tree. Root pruning represents a short-term setback, but that setback is more than repaid in the form of growth much more robust than your plant would have realized had you NOT repotted it. "Should I look to sort out the roots and then move onto the pruning?" That's typically what I would do if the repot wasn't one of those epochal sessions where a very large fraction of the roots were removed (75-90%). "I would also like to propagate the off cut stem into another tree, as the cutting will be approx. 1m. I thought spring would be the best time for this, is that correct? The best time for propagating cuttings would be just before Christmas for you. That's when the plant will have the most stored energy. Any advice and/or tips would be appreciated." If you like, you can increase the probability of your cutting striking (growing roots) and the speed with which it will strike by doing this: Purchase some IBA rooting powder. Cut 2 pieces of electrical tape long enough to make at least 2 wraps around the stem. Sprinkle one end of each piece of tape with the powder, making sure it sticks to the tape, then wrap the tape where you want roots to grow on the stem so the powder is against the bark and secure the tape. The tape will create darkness, so you'll be 'blanching' the stem. It will also trap moisture against the trunk. These cultural conditions will help stimulate root initials to form. The IBA hormone will work in concert to help stem cells in the vascular cambium decide they want to be roots, rather than whatever other organ cultural conditions would push the plant toward developing. In mid-Dec, you can sever the cutting just below the lowest tape, remove the tape, cut off leaves at the node immediately above the tape, and stick the cutting in a highly aerated, damp (but never wet or soggy) medium in open shade and out of wind. You'll want 2 nodes buried and 2 healthy leaves left on the cutting. If you want a single-stemmed plant, make a tip cutting. If you want a multi-stemmed bushy plant, take an internodal cutting. It's helpful to cut the leaves left on the plant in half across venation to reduce the likelihood of the plant shedding the leaves as a drought response. You can always start an air layer now if you like. It should be ready to separate around Christmas or just before when you do your repotting. I apologize for the tardy reply. I only got to your message asking me to look at your post tonight. I get at least 10-20 plant-related messages from Houzz members every day, and it's taken me this long to catch up after being away for a week's vacation around mid-Aug. I hope I've provided you with some insight you can put to work for you and your plant. Give a lot of thought to the medium you'll ultimately provide as a home for roots. The need to fight your soil for control of your plant's vitality takes much of the fun and reward from growing, so soil choice is a key factor that influences how rewarding your growing experience CAN be. Your turn for questions or added input. I hope I'm not too late to have provided anything useful. Al...See MoreBest time to root prune container figs
Comments (5)The best time to repot/root prune F carica (the hardy fig) is in spring. The first time you repot, keep a close eye on the buds and be prepared in advance to repot at the very first sign of budswell. The next and all subsequent repots should be 2 weeks earlier than when you noticed bud movement. Take note of when you see the first sign of budswell each year. After several years you'll be able to predict with fair accuracy when buds will move, and you'll be able to repot just before they do. Buds on your hardy figs will be moving (in most cases) 2-3 weeks before figs and mulberries (close relatives) in the landscape are starting to push. Nothing is carved in stone, though. Several years ago, we had a week of weather in the mid to upper 80s in March. I had all sorts of trees breaking bud and had to take a week off to repot. I remember standing on the driveway in shorts and tank top with a hella bad sunburn by week's end, in spite of the SPF 35 I had slathered on. So pay attention and be prepared, in case Mother Nature serves up a curve ball. You CAN repot in fall after leaves are shed, but it's very important that you protect the roots of trees repotted in fall from any chance of freezing. Al...See Morepaully22
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agonkesh099
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)