If they had roots when you potted them, then it is likely that they suffered some damage in potting them. I have had some that did this but later recovered. I would recommend that you remove the botttom heat at this time as it will end up causing root rot. At this stage they need some cooler temperatures to mature the roots. Good luck.

We have a fig tree that is about 7-8' high by 6' wide and has produced good fruit for the last two years. I would like to cut some limbs and treat them with a plane hormone that I purchased and plant them in my yard and give some away to my friends. I want to "propagate" the tree. - A good friend wants a cutting of my tree.
I purchased some HYPONET potting soil and 2oz of Rootone and would like some instructions on: when to cut sections of branches off, how much length to cut, what time of day or night to cut them and, if this the correct time of year to do this trimming? Any other guidelines that would create success is also appreciated.

We thought we lost our fig tree due to the flood created by Hurricane Katrina. We had 3' of standing salt water for fourteen days, but our tree survived.
Respectfully,

Richard Schmidt

Richard
A separate thread for your new topic`would have been helpful to you and the forum readers. Just a suggestion.

Lou,
I think that Steve has just said it all up for you.
You know what I mean.
Wishing you all the fig good luck...

Peat moss holds moisture super well..........too well for figs. You did not indicate the ratio of peat to vermiculite. The stress is likely rot. Also you did not mention how much daylight the cuttings are getting.
Did you treat them with a fungicide before sticking them in the soil media?
I am using straight medium coarse vermiculite.
Take a cutting out and look at it under a magnifying glass. If the wood is greenish with adventitious root callus forming, things are good.
If the wood is brown or mahogany and sloughing off, they are rotting.
What variety do you have?
I'm sure you can get a replacement for many on this list.

Lou, i'll chime in my 2 sense worth.
One time i was rooting a italian type that a friend brought from italy we each had one, his died so i gathered some wood from mine following year and used the baggie method like always in our warm laundry room. The 3 sticks rooted well and they were cupped. But i did something different and put them up high on wire rack above the washmachine near the ceiling they had small leaves good roots as i could see them in the cup, one by one the leaves started to curl and i looked at the roots and they were turning darker each passing day, one cup i took out and put in another room the other 2 cups stood in same place in laundry room. The ones in laundry room died as the cups were to warm and the roots did get dark brown when this happened, the 1 i took out made it fine . I learned by that mistake.
So what Steve says is true and good advice in my opinon as to much warmth can be bad with young developing roots. I should have realized that high up near the cieling heat rises and warmed those cups to much along with the root system.Ive never used a heat mat but in my area they use it indoors to start seeds in trays for vegtables to sprout more quickly to get a jump start on the season here when they take the heat mat away im not sure but im now guessing its earlier than later and only used to germinate the seeds as i do know that vegtable seeds do not sprout here outdoors if the soil is not a certain minimum teperature.
Best Health
Martin

Guys,
Sorry for the delayed response. I was away all day yesterday. I want to thank all of you for your advice and comments. I have turned the heat down from 74 to 70 degrees. The room temp the cuttings are growing in is about 66 degrees. I used about 50 t0 60 percent vermiculite to peat. I'm going to keep them potted up and hope for the best using some TLC.

Bellow I posted a photo showing cuttings or trees that I have grown using all the same set up that I started up with earlier with no problems. They all are doing well and are all different species.
Thanks again for you input.
Lou
By the way Bass did an outstanding job yesterday giving his lecture to an estimated audience of 45 people dealing with growing figs in our area. He really gave the people attending the whole story about figs from their origins to present day one could say from soup to nuts. He had a lot of interaction from the audience firing many questions and taking notes. Have to commend him on his performance. The PPS slide show he made up helped out a great deal using the many photos he displayed.

Lou, I hope you don't mind taking your thread in another direction, but Richard Schmidt asked for some cutting help, too.

Richard, Rooting hormone usually isn't used with figs. They root readily and there have been reports that it might cause the cuttings to rot.
A good cutting is taken from last year's growth that is at least the width of a pencil - thicker is better - and eight or nine inches long. But people have rooted very big pieces and single nodes.
I take the cuttings just before the trees come out of dormancy in the spring. (It can be done at other times.)
I'm in the north and don't want to steer you wrong, so I hope somebody from your "neighborhood" will give you instructions for rooting. They'll have a better sense for where you are in the growing season, and what will work best for you in your conditions.
Anybody?