I just thought Conifers required different, or rather more, care, than the easy breezy trees I've planted. ==>>> NOPE you need a 6 weeks of the ground not being frozen for planting in the fall to be successful. I don't know when that happens around here. == ok .. here in MI ... this is how it goes down.. you have to be very similar ... leaves turn color in oct ... when that happens.. trees.. ALL OF THEM.. are dormant above.. needles or not and that is when you dig them up and move or plant them .... so my planting window is mid sept.. to mid october.... so if the leaves fall off.. who cares .... in regard to trees ... this is s good time.. with warmish days.. and cool nights.. the soil stay warmish.. allowing the roots to get reset... thru november.. we continue to insure moisture... as the days and nights get cold... not that they need much.. just make sure the soil doesnt dry out .... late in fall ... here in MI.. ground freeze is anywhere between mid dec.. and mid jan .... last year.. right around the first of the year ... if you do the math from 10/1 to 1/1 .... that is precisely 90 days... then.. ground freeze may as well be suspended animation ... and you are all set for the ground to start thawing around mid march thru 4//1 .... and your tree i sitting there ... already to go ... MAYBE a call to your extension office.. will get someone.. based on this story.. to agree for your county .... or adjust such ... the best thing that can happen is full sun cover.. so winter winds dont dry out the soil .... but you know al about mulching.. so that ought to be good.. and finally.. YOU ARE WELCOME ... the only warning i have.. is not to buy bigboxstore carp .... that has been sitting there all summer.... if they have new fresh stock.. pungens ought to be rather bulletproof for you ... but if you buy bargain... death is possible .... ken ps: rereading the top quote.. the only difference.. is that most trees are deciduous.. and with most conifers.. you worry about needle retention ... and winter winds drying them .. but worse case.. i had a couple pines.. lose every single needle.. only to bud out and releaf in spring.. and never look back.. because i took care of the roots ....

It could be my eyes, but in your inspiration pic, it appears the the seat trim goes out a bit beyond the neighboring cabinets. And the seat does extend beyond the bookcases on either side of the sketch that comes up at the top left in the bench example link above. How much does the trim extend beyond your bookcases? How deep is the seat overall? Could it be due to the fact that it needed to be made deeper to be a usable seat? It might be tough to sit on a seat that is the depth of many bookcases. It might be more of a 'perch' than a true seat if not deep enough. Is it possible that it might look a bit unfinished if it didn't extend a bit beyond? Do you plan to put a cushion and pillows on your bench that might hide the 'overage'?

First......What are the full dimensions of your space? All the walls, windows, doorways, etc. Very good reasons for switching. Traffic...OK Architects...yes, they're very good at designing structural elements and adding "interest", but when it comes to functionality, they pretty much get an F. The majority of architects are poor Kitchen Designers. A better idea is to get the general structural setup of the space and then design a very functional kitchen and tweak the architectural items to fit the layout. If you rarely used your kitchen (and yes, there are some people who have kitchens for "show" only), I would say go with what looks "nice" over functionality if that's what you want. But, you do use your kitchen, so I think functionality should be considered. For me, functionality usually trumps form. YMMV "island & range are on axis with the french doors"...is anyone going to notice this one way or the other? If it is noticeable, will it look too symmetrical and/or contrived? Sometimes this type of thing can actually look "too much" and stops being a nice feature and becomes more "show" or "commercial" looking. Aisle widths...if the measurements are cabinet-to-cabinet, then your aisles are actually 3" narrower than you think. Counter edges usually extend approx 1.5" beyond cabinets (to direct spills away from cabinets & doors to protect finishes). This means a 42" aisle is really 39" and 44.5" is really 41.5". With all the traffic you will probably have when you have get togethers, I highly recommend a minimum of 42" and, possibly, 48" aisles. Zone issues... Trash & Recycle...You need the larger trash bin and the recycle bin in the Prep & Cooking Zones more than you need them in the Cleanup Zone. Also, if the small trash bin is under the prep sink, every time someone needs to use it...prepping or cooking...the person at the sink will need to move out of the way. If it were me, I'd put the double-bin trash/recycle pullout in the Prep Zone and either put in a 12" single-bin trash pullout or a trash can under the sink in the Cleanup Zone...assuming the double-bin pullout is not also easily accessed from the Cleanup Zone (ideal setup). Cooking Zone/Range work & landing space if switch w/sink...do you need those shallow walls that flank both the current sink location and the entrance to the new sitting room? If not, you would gain approx 4.5" per wall that could be used for work & landing space. 18" is a little small, especially since both sides are 18" (i.e., there isn't one side w/more to make up for the lack of space on the other side). I suspect they're "architectural interest" items, at least the one b/w the DW & stair area. (This also applies to item #6.) Island orientation...have you also considered turning the island 90o clockwise so the seats back into the new Sitting Room? That might enable you to leave the range, refrigerator, etc. where they all are now. If you can provide the dimensions of the space, I could play with your layout to see how it would work... (Dimensions: overall length & width of the room, doorway/opening/window widths, widths of each section of wall space) If you can also reduce the width of those walls flanking the new Sitting Room, you add inches for the aisle b/w the island and walls. No comments right now. Moving refrigerator...aesthetic as well as function...unless you have a true blank slate and can make any changes you want, you will have to compromise on some things. In this case, ask yourself when is the refrigerator used the most and how can you mitigate the impact of the move (compromise). For example, it was mentioned that you could have a beverage refrigerator for drinks and condiments that is close to the Breakfast area. Generally, drinks and condiments aren't used for cooking but are used for meals and usually all that's needed from a Breakfast area is drinks & condiments! So, perhaps you could make the compromise on the refrigerator location functionally by putting it closer to the island workspace and have a beverage refrigerator for snackers. As to the "symmetry", I actually think moving the refrigerator is better b/c it balances the rather long wall on the Breakfast area end. You have a lot of partial walls cutting up the kitchen space, so work with those walls and use the refrigerator to at least "balance" them.

Go with the two (modest) chandeliers. This will emphasize the length of the island unit and if there's only a single worker at island, that person will likely stand between them--nothing in way of seeing his/her face from a distance or in looking out from island into adjacent spaces. These lights will also help light the space surrounding the island. Get ones whose bulbs can be dimmed from good and bright to mood/nighlight setting. I know you've already lived with chandelier in kitchen and have weighed the pluses and minuses, but I am always concerned about dusting, so I'd find a chandy that is not entirely clear glass--sparkle sufficient for glitz yet practicality so you don't need to hire help for cleanliness. I think cans are less welcoming, more shadow-making, less inviting.