The unsprouted ones should be viable. The main problem is that a typical squash sold for the table is likely cross-pollinated; that is, it probably was grown within pollinating distance of different varieties of squash in the same species (there are three main species of eating squashes). Squash cross very, very easily and so the resulting plant grown from crossed seed will produce unreliably, you may get something that doesn't look like a butternut and may not be worth eating. Better to buy a packet at the seed rack and not waste space on a gamble, IMO...

Hi, Charlie, Good question. So many times, terms aren't defined. If you get these mounted plants, you've still got options, if they don't suit your style. I love lots of the plants people seem to sell mostly - or only - mounted, the Haraella being one. It bloomed fine, hanging out with other mounties in one of the clear glass vases, about 8"x 8" each, with stones and a bit of water in the bottom. It's the one on the left: However, it was one of almost 20 mounties that needed misting/soaking daily. If I weren't such an underwaterer, it'd be multiple times: They're always dry 24 hours later, inside or outside, unless it's raining or super humid and cloudy out. When the mounties are in the house, most are taken from vases and sprayed over a big pot, one at a time, then put back. The mounties that don't fit in a big vase are taken to the shower, sprayed, left to drip for awhile, and then taken back to the orchid room. Outside, each is moved and watered separately. Every.Single.Day ... whether I'm tired, down with a bug, out late, have a sick pet, family member in the hospital, buddy in a jam. With the potted orchids, I can close the shades, turn off the lights, and leave them for at least 7 days, if need be. I started resenting the mounties. One of the old hands who used to post here said no orchid had to be mounted. Dunno if they were excluding the Ghost, but I've unmounted almost all the mounties now, including the Haraella, Aerangis fastuosa, Aerangis biloba, Dendrobium ceraula, Dinema polybulbon, Encyclia bracteata, Leptotes bicolor, Ornithocephalus bicornis, Phal. lowii, and Phal. parishii. Others, the grower unmounted and potted before I brought them home. Almost all the Sedireas I've seen were potted. As many mounties as possible have gone into sphag & plastic because they dry more slowly; 2nd preference is bark w/ sphag; last is straight bark. The plants in straight bark have to be watered every other day. It's a relief to be free of the every-day-or-else demands. It's been a month since the Haraella went from mounted to potted in sphag. It could be too soon to know if it'll be okay, but it didn't lose either of the 2 flowers, and buds on all 3 spikes are still developing. You'll figure out what works for you - the orchids will teach you. :) Whitecat8

...on a pine candle you can cut as far back as long as there are needles. Buds will form anywhere on a candle for next-year be if this is the case. You should always wait a year, but Tom says it equally-right. I've had several one-year grafts that pushed the following year when I thought for sure there was nothing, furthermore. Dax

There are a few factors you failed to mention, but I would say the first mistake is the peat pots. In the baggies, they tend to hold too much moisture, out of the baggie they will leach the moisture away from the roots and evaporate it. Some plants will put on new growth well before roots are established under high moisture conditions. What plant(s) are you doing? I suspect the peat pots are pulling the moisture away from the roots, or the roots are not established well enough to support the top growth when you remove them from the baggie. When you first see the wilt starting to occur, put them back in the baggie, and mist them. I would recommend that you abandon the peat pots, and use small plastic containers instead. Place the cuttings in a north facing window, or on the outside in full shade so they can get more natural light to begin with. Do not disturb the roots until you can see them through the drain holes. With plastic containers you can remove the plant without breaking the roots.