Isabella: Just to let you know that there is more than one opinion on this matter, Ken and I have discussed this topic more than once before and have agreed to disagree. To some extent, he is right, however. If a large tree is not dug and planted properly, it will take longer to get over the transplant shock/root loss, and resume normal growth. I can also add, that it is my opinion based on many, many years of observations (I dug and transplanted my first tree when I was about 6 years old and I am now 70), that if a tree suffers extreme--and I mean extreme stress during transplant, it may never be as vigorous as a tree that has had good health throughout its life. So, granting those points to Ken, let me explain why I disagree--in many if not most situations. Because we are talking about a spruce tree here--not all trees react to transplanting the same and/or recover in the same amount of time--let me tell you about some Norway spruce I planted 7 years ago. Two of them I dug up myself--they were about 7 or 8 feet tall. Really too large for me to handle properly, so after my struggles, there was excessive root loss. At the same time I planted about 8 Norway spruce about 2 1/2 feet tall. So the larger trees were about 5 feet taller than the smaller ones. And the larger ones were planted on top of a small ridge with thin soil. The others were planted in a much more favorable location. Now not all trees are the same and this may be too small a sample to draw any good scientific conclusions, but the two larger trees I planted, in spite of the very "ragged" digging and planting job I did, are now still at least 5 feet taller. Really, I think they are more like 8 feet taller. The others are growing well also, but not catching up. How about an extreme example? Some of you out there know about Longwood Gardens, not far from Philadelphia. At either side of the entrance to the largest of the conservatories are two Norway spruce trees. I believe these were close to 60 feet tall when planted there--If anyone wants to go see these trees and report, I will rest my case. So, if you want a larger tree NOW, and believe the nursery knows what it is doing, and your soil is deep enough to accommodate a large root ball, I think you can go with the larger tree. Also, and this is a very important point for me, if you are getting blue spruce that are of seedling origin, the trees will vary not only in their color, but also in their branching habit. Some blue spruce have some droop to their foliage that I think is attractive. There may be some other characteristics in individual trees you like. If the tree is large enough these characteristics will have had time to develop so you can judge what you are getting. You can look at a 4 foot blue spruce and have little or no idea what its growth characteristics will be like when the tree is 12 to 15 feet tall. --Spruce

COnifers are available pretty much year round here in Maryland. The conifers to be moved were all planted in October of 2002. I am willing to take the chance since I have had succeess with moving trees and plants in the fall. I know the importance of deep, slow watering so I will probably just do it since the landscape company is coming this fall to do some rearranging and adding new beds. I will keep you posted. Thanks!

I cannot speak to Norway spruce or cryptomeria in shade, but will caution that hemlocks are susceptible to the hemlock woolly adelgid, a tiny sucking insect that settles in at the base of the needles and literally sucks the life out of the plant. Hemlocks throughout the northeast are in decline due to these insects. People wishing to preserve their hemlocks have to resort to an insecticide. A horticultural oil is least toxic to non-target species, but must be carefully timed for maximum effectiveness and on larger trees will likely require the services of a arborist with equipment to reach the upper part of the tree. Weeping hemlocks are awesomely beautiful when mature, but they prefer some shade in our warmer climates, even USDA zone 7.

I would approach the question of which tree to plant as "which conifer can handle a reasonable amount of shade (but that a good number of hours of direct sun wont hurt), that also looks like an Xmas tree". Upon first look that does not appear like an ideal situation (it obviously isn't, that fence height is a good % of the final height you want your tree to be), but as mentioned earlier it appears to get full sun in the later afternoon which have the strongest rays. Having said that, I think it is more than workable to get something that you will be happy with. My experience has shown that norway spruce are a reasonable amount easier to grow that colorado blue spruce(handle shade better, etc). Now you are faced with the dilemna that 50% of the questions on here revolve around (I needed a (row of) tree(s) yesterday that is 20' tall, 9' wide already and wont grow anymore). If you are willing to wait 20+ years then go buy a small reasonably priced smaller (slower growing) conifer, be patient and wait (eventually it may/will grow bigger than you want, perhaps much bigger than you want) Or (if there is even a nursery around you that sells older (and larger) slower growing conifers, you could shell out big big big big bucks and get something bigger so you dont have to wait as long. What Im learning about this hobby is that it is a lot about being patient(or having deeeeep pockets, but even then still being very patient). Im not the best person to recommend specific trees, not much experience. Ive got a lot of basic conifers- norway, colorado, black hills, serbian, canadian hemlocks, etc but not so many fancier/slower growing ones (and Ive only been into conifers/trees for 3 years) Canadian Hemlocks like shade but growing them can be finicky in Ohio(and they may not have the Xmas tree look you are looking for). Actually that is way too much sun for a Canadian hemlock(at least in Ohio, up North not as much, but I would say still too much sun, even where you live). Im thinking some type of slower growing Norway spruce, but like I said, not an expert. Im sure others will offer specific suggestions. The Norway spruce is the most bullettproof conifer I have met. Ive got a bunch planted in shady areas. They dont fill out as much when in shade but they still look great to me and plenty "Christmas-tree like".