Only if the container were the exact shape and depth of the original pot, and all you did was literally slip it out of there in one whole piece into the second pot and then just added (if necessary) more mix around the sides.

Dear Lucy: Can't tell you how much I appreciate your interest with these questions. Yes, prune in late fall/early winter. In NYC that can be difficult to determine, because temp's. can be very warmish until the beginning of January, and then they can suddenly take a nose dive until March. Your instructions imply that pruning is OK after trees go into dormancy, .... correct? Size of tree will roughly be, give or take a few inches, almost the same size as the basic framework of the tree after the initial trunk-chop, and bending up one of the side branches to form a new, narrower "trunk" section, and some new "branches" to fill out the basic design. This will be trained in the "BUNJIN/LITERATI" style, so, the basic framework will be very stark, and will only consist of the main trunk: 28" high, then, one of the existing major side branches will be trained to form a continuation of the trunkline, and then, a new apex and some side branches. I plan on planting this tree into a large tub, or a training bed so that the tree could recover from the major surgery/wiring quickly, and to ultimately put out some new branch growth to fill out the existing branches. I don't want, or need, branches to sprout out from, or along the tall, branchless, trunk bottom. This section of the tree will remain branchless for this design, however, I do want to encourage new growth on the already existing branches, and needle bundles. The only major pruning this tree will get, is really, the trunk-chop. The rest of the "tree" is basically there, ... it just has to be wired, bent, and trained into the "Bunjin" style. The main reason I picked out this tree, is that, most of what I will be training has already grown. I'll have a tall, tapering trunk, secondary trunk, and, major branches, to complete the basic design of the final tree. Sort of an "instant" bonsai. I'm 58 years old, so, I need most things to be "instant"!!! The mechanics of how to form this tree were not my problem, but WHEN to do the major work was not clear to me. Wish I could show you some photos, and/or sketches of this tree, and the design that I had in mind, but, sorry to admit, I'm not at all, computer "savy". Perhaps, if, and when, I work on this tree, I might be able to post some before and after pictures ... with the help of my friends. Thanks again for all your interest, and for your helpful suggestions. Cordially yours, Frank DV

Thanks bboy. While riding around Portland for 23 years I have gaped at huge Blue Atlas Cedars and longed for the day I could plant some in my own yard. They are spectacular, majestic, awe-inspiring. I won't live long enough to see these become huge but I have the good karma of leaving them for some fortunate person, beautifying my neck of the woods and watching them grow for whatever time I have left on the planet. Did buy a Cyprus Cedar a couple months ago, like having a bonsai tree in the yard, LOL. It has actually grown since planted, but one can tell it's a slow grower. "> The Cyprus Cedar is the little darker green guy on the left. Will post a picture of him soon, with his new growth :-)

Question: Several people mentioned the importance of zone - whether a weeping blue atlas cedar will be hardy in a particular zone. How do you factor in other conditions? I live in southeastern VA on the Chesapeake Bay. The water that surrounds us moderate temps on both ends. In spring, temps warm up slowly. In winter, temps get cold later. Usual 1st frost is in late Nov - early Dec. This year, our first hard frost was in late Dec. The big issue here (and it's a BIG issue) is wind. It's not usual to have winds of 30-35+ mph to blow for days, causing plants to dry up and die. In winter and early spring, NNW winds are the main problem (we are fairly well protected from NNE winds). Although this situation is comfortable for people, several days of warm/hot wind aren't good for trees that are under stress and must deal with these conditions - or die. Given these conditions, would you grow a weeping blue atlas cedar here? How would they handel an occasional salt water bath from a tropical storm or hurricane? Thanks, Pam