Check out the Bulbs Forum. There's a thread entitled "A Very Allium Spring" that will answer your question about dividing. I'm going to try it this year, but like you said, because of the cost, I don't want to screw anything up.

Ravel, it's good that you are continuing with your efforts to create a wildflower butterfly garden. The one thing you should not expect is for wildflowers to have the same performances as their ornamental relatives. That is because the plants we normally use in gardens have been improved over the years and therefore appear more spectacular. So expect this of most of your flowers. Next I do need to ask as to where you are located. Your location determines what sort of wildflowers will thive there. For example in Ontario do check the website, wildflower farm and Acorus for information on wildflowers. Note that there's not much nformation as to their zones - which is the reason why it's important to identify your province and look up the plants natural in your area. As to divisions - yes you can divide plants now for as long as the ground are still workable. I'd prefer to divide once the plant has gone or is close to dormant. As to seed collection. I would suggest harvesting the ripened flowerhead and putting them facing down in brown paper bags. Seeds out to drop down. Milkweed have large seedpods. Once this splits tufted seeds will float away. I grow eupatorium for semi-shade conditions, meadowsweet, thalictum and filipendula. I also grow sweet williams (invasive) and epimedium, virginia bluebells (also invasive), columbine trilliums are shade loving plants Jack in the Pulpit Marsh Marigolds Violas (careful - can be terribly invasive) woodland anemone wild blue flax yellow lady's slipper wild geranium tall buttercup lupines forget me nots There are tons of information out there on wildflowers and all you need to do is to do more online research. Try locating more information using the term woodland plant for shade loving wildflowers.

Any sprouts should be snipped off. You want to store them with no roots or sprouts. They will sprout again in the spring. I have a similar situation with some of my tubers. We had a hard enough frost to kill the plants, but since then it has been quite a bit warmer so they are making another try. I have some "eyes" or the start of new sprouts on the lower areas of stems, which I have never seen before in the fall. Those I will just cut off and toss.

Welcome to the forum, I found this forum In Spring of 2008. I had a few old daylilies but knew the name of none of them. I bought a lot more than three daylilies that first year, here is a picture two years later...yep, that garden bed is two years old, so 10 years isn't at all necessary to get the look you want. You want to allow your daylilies to form nice clumps before you separate them but as long as they get adequate water and a bit of food, they'll do fine. You will have to eventually separate them to have blooms, but a lot of mine will be separated for the first time this year.. My garden is a typical one. I have several beds that have only daylilies, and I have one bed that has many different flowers (including dayllilies), with the aim to create a cottage garden look. Look back about 40 pages (bottom of page), and you will see many posts of beautiful daylilies. You can buy daylilies very reasonably, but I will warn you it is something that is almost addictive. Just keep looking at forum and you will soon be seeing beautiful flowers. Again, welcome to the forum kay