First, when you dramatically change the light conditions a Meyer will drop most, if not all its leaves, to replace them later with leaves better suited to the new light conditions. To move a Meyer from outside to inside without the leaf loss, you need to move it from full sun to partial sun for 2 weeks; then to full shade for 2 weeks; then indoors; reverse the process when putting it out in the Spring... and please DO put it out, if you can; you will be rewarded with a happy, healthy plant.
Second, when you bring it indoors to a sunny window, the plant gets warm; but the roots generally stay cool; and citrus roots don't like to grow into cool soil... the solution is to put some sort of heater to warm the soil, or to put the plant a little further from the window. The thing to remember is first the roots grow; and then the leaves and branches.

Great advice John gave you about adjusting it before it comes in..

It was also do what John says if the roots get colder than 55 degrees...If your house temps are warmer that that, then your tree will do great in sunlight and still grow..

But I have a few questions? The more details, the better)

Did you bring the tree in with the soil already wet?
How long does it take for it to dry out properly?
Do you know how to tell when to water?
What kind of mix is it in?
how much sunlight is it getting?
What window facing in what direction?
Did you fertilize it all summer and with what?

MIke

This post was edited by meyermike_1micha on Sat, Sep 27, 14 at 21:39

Thanks for the advice John, I'm just scared the leaves won't grow back like last year on my other plant. Also, I still am slowly bringing my lemon tree indoors, as the temperatures outside get down to low 50s at night.

And Mike, I believe the soil was wet when I bring it in, but I am still putting it outside. I place the plant outside if the weather is good, in the sun. Now I know to put it in the shade if I am transitioning it indoors, so it will be in shade today. When the sun goes down, I bring my plant indoors, and turn on the grow light, is that ok?

It takes about 1 day for the top of the soil to dry, but about 2-3 days for all the dirt to dry out.

I water if the soil is dry. How I tell is by looking at the bottom of the pot, where the drain holes are. If the soil down there is moist slightly, not wet, then I water. I read to not let the soil completely dry out or else the lemons might fall off.

The soil is the same as when I bought it, and I am planing to re-pot it in spring (if it survives). I'll post a picture of the soil.

The amount of sunlight is different each day. if it is nice outside, i place it outside and it gets around 5-7 hours of sunlight. When indoors, I don't have any room in front of my sought window, which is in my room. I have it in a corner (first picture shows where) and I usually have the grow light on for 5-6 hours. Is it ok if the only light is a grow light? Or is sunlight required?

In the summer I fertilized it with miracid about once a week, and holly tone for a slow release.

Please tell me if I am doing anything wrong. I also pinched off new flower buds that started growing because I want the tree to focus on new leaves.

This is a picture of the soil. You can still see the fertilizer, its grey.

Thsi is what I would do until you can judge teh pot by its weight before watering again..

I woud use a chop stick or wooden dowel and push it right into the root zone to test for moisture before watering..Over watering at this time is usually teh death of most trees because as they go through an adjustment phase, they decrease water intake leaving your soil much damper for days until they adjust..

Light will work for your tree if it is kep within inches from teh top of the canopy and strong enough to make a difference...

Why are you using Holly Tone in your pot? Is that the same stuff used for outside plants?

The mix does not look fresh. It looks retired and void of nutrients...
I would consider using a pine barky mix or a grittier one since I don't think that tree will survive in it thorugh the winter..

Is it possible for you to lift the plant from the pot and take a pic of the roots so we can see if the yellowing is from root rot just yet? First you must discount root issues.

If the roots are looking great, then we know it is a light issue..

You either have to find a spot for it in a very sunny window or under some strong light very close to the plant..

if you are going to use lights solely, then I would only bring it in at night without added lights and stick it back outside while days are warm under shade until you bring it in once and for all. By the way, 50's at night is ok...Then use the lights and keep it there in one spot.

Sunlight is not required if you are providing a great source of warmth and artificial light for a good amount of time..That is not my expertise, so I hope someone here can recommend a good light source or set-up since I got rid of mine.)

Yellowing can be from anything..But disqualifying one problem at a time is how you find the culprit for any trees demise...For some it can take years or just a few days)

MIke

I just found this leaf on my tree. I pushed it lightly and it fell off. Now I am scared, because this looks like a bad sign. The leaf is browning and there is a sticky liquid on it, like it is oozing out of the leaf? I will check the roots tomorrow, but if you have any knowledge on this, please let me know.

Is there any possible way you can take more pics of your tree? Like pics of the branches up close, under the leaves, and the fruit?

Look for bugs, see if they are sucking the moisture out of your leaves, because in the top pic they look dehydrated...Do the leaves perk up or look better after you water them or keep looking like that?

This is a picture of what I think is a bug. The purple arrow shows the strange liquid on the leaves, and the black shows a white spec which I think is a bug. It popped when I rubbed it off, so it had to be living.

Close up on the white thing. I have seen it before on my plant, under a leaf, and I didn't know what it was, and I still don't

A picture of a bad leaf :(

A lot of liquid on this leaf

The branches also have the liquid on them. I didn't have time to check the roots, but when I do, what soil should I use to re-pot it. I can't use Al's Gritty mix because I can't find a lot of those items, so does anyone know a "quick recipe" for a soil mix?

KW, first things first....Treat your plant for bugs...That is a must..

Those bugs are sucking the moisture out of the leaves and preventing your roots from doing their work..You have a two fold process going on.
Your rots will not function properly and actually die unless you get the leaves to help them do their work.

Please get rid of what I think my be Mealy Bug...Someone here can give you an exact name, but it is important to get rid of any bad bugs as soon as possible or that plant will die..

Once you have cleaned the leaves of the bugs which I suspected, then it's time to move on the next phase.

Lete me know when you have a pest free plant)

MIke

Hey, thanks for the input mike, and sorry for the late reply. I don't have a lot of time on my hand some days. I sprayed my tree, and the next day i noticed a lot more bugs on the main branch. I think they are scales, but they came of easily so the pesticide did its job! Is there anything else I should do now?

Aren't they gross..? lol

Keep up with it..Spray again in a day or two for at least 4 treatments. Spray off your plant with a good dose of water often and keep checking for bugs..

Once your leaves are cleaned of bugs, I think you will notice the soil drying out more quickly and your tree will perk up, as long as it's getting plenty of sunlight))

MIke

Yea Mike, the scales are really gross. I sprayed the tree a second time today, but its not in sunlight. It is outside in full shade, for when I transfer it indoors, there will be less stress. It is also going to be cold this week at nights, should I bring it inside for the winter or not yet? A week ago I saw new buds perking out when it was indoors, maybe leaves, but it was outside the whole week in colder temperatures. I looked today and the buds are turning light green, like they are dying because of the cold. That is why i am wondering if I should bring it indoors. I live in Connecticut btw.

Hello..Bring it in at night to keep teh roots warm and then stick it back outside by day until the daytime temps start falling below the 60's on average...

Mine will be going in and out to get use to the indoors and thrive outside until it gets much colder by day. I brought them all in tonight and will stick them back out tomorrow in sunlight...They get use to this treatment and mines do not loose leaves by the time they have to come in.

Hurray for the bugs dying...I am just concerned about oil build up on your leaves..It can prevent the pores on the leaves from breathing or doing their job..That is why I always spray after with a good soapy warm water, especially the buds..Oils WILL damage your buds in formation..Not if you rinse them off with warm natural soapy water after you have sprayed..

I hate this cold, but its coming no matter what.. you always think you have months of warmth and then before you know it, it's gone(

MIke

Thanks for the help Mike. My lemon tree is now indoors for a good week, and the leaves are green!!! I just have one question, do I need a heat pad to keep the roots warm in the winter? My room is the coldest in the winter because I have a big window door. It gets around 60 when the heat is on 70. Do I need to keep the plant warm? Or will it be fine

Thanks for all the advice.

You are so welcome KW, I am happy they are responding well..That's great.

I would NOT us a heat pad all winter..By nature, roots are suppose to cool off a good 10 to 20 degrees by night to function well and by day, as long as the temps are above 55, your tree will thrive..In fact, your tree would thrive better if temps were kept cooler all winter, always above 55 though..I assume you keep your home temps warmer than 55 to live in, right?

I have never had to use bottom heat.

MIke