Thuja Green Giant Privacy Screening Project Advice Part II

hlechat

11 years ago

http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/conif/msg061533427487.html
Part II of above link, per Ken's advice. :-)

Extending link with some follow up.

Am getting ready to pull the trigger on about 10 or 15 Thuja Green Giants from Musser Forest.

Am an experienced gardener, but have found out that does not mean experienced at conifers.

What are some things to remember when starting these bare root plants, and giving them the best possible chance?

They are at the bottom of a gently sloping hill, and I chose them due to being drought tolerant and not needing watering. I am in Zone 5, in southern St. Louis.

Looking forward to continued reading and learning!

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Comments (2)

outback63 Dennison
11 years ago
Link

Here is a link that might be useful: Link
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
11 years ago
PROPER PLANTING IS THE KEY ... see link ...

native soil.. proper depth.. different rules for clay ...

PROPER watering.. FOR TWO YEARS ... nothing.. and i mean NOTHING is drought tolerant ON PLANTING ...

a good course deep mulch ... 3 to 4 foot circle ..... 3 to 4 inches deep .... depending on how it settles ... no closer than 3 inches to the trunk ...

and SINGLE LEADER TREES to start with ... insist on such from your seller ...

these things will grow a foot or two per year once they get going .... in your zone ..... i would suggest.. no more than 3 foot tall plants ....

and full sun ...

soo... tree.. soil.. planting.. watering.. mulch.. that about covers it.. but for anything else said in that other post ...

ken

ps: you can be digging holes weeks prior to delivery .... once you have the plants.. it can be backbreaking to dig 15 holes while your plants are dying in the garage ... lol ... i would put them in a pail of water for no more than 24 hours.. just and inch or two at the bottom ... roots only ... and stuff some damp newspaper around the top.. to keep the roots in high humidity.. but not standing all in water .... if you cant plant immediately.. open box.. open plastic.. throw in some damp paper towel on the roots ... and lightly close the plastic.. in my z5.. you could keep them that way.. in the garage.. which this time of year in MI.. is just a giant refrigerator ... for a month .... as the cement floor is a heat sink until may ..... your goal is to keep them dormant as long as possible .. and best until planted ... ... which i hope musser insures on sending.. they have to be dormant ...

pps: review my post on transplanting conifers.. its about halfway down page one ... you can skip the digging up part .... focus on he sticking in part ... the sand all fell off my plant.. so it was bare rooted by the time it hit the hole ....

Here is a link that might be useful: link
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Thanks for all of the advice guys. @ davidrt28 - thanks for the advice and ordering info @ kato_b , tsugajunkie - the larger 5 gallon plants don't look as bad. there is still some green, but they don't look that great. I actually started planting the smaller trees further back from the road because I was worried about the salt spray. I think they're around 28ft from the road and have those hedges in between the road and small trees. I thought that would have been enough protection... also before they even started salting last fall, they were starting to turn orangish. @ davidrt28 - nope.. I didn't fertilize them @ tsugajunkie - thanks for that link, I may have to look into a different species what a discouragement ... it would have been nice to see the majority survive after all the time and money I put into the project I'm thinking the best thing to do is look for several species that's resistant to salt spray and add a mix of trees This post was edited by duke90 on Thu, May 2, 13 at 0:53
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I am in Zone 6b (near Knoxville, TN). I have the trees on a drip irrigation system. I remember posting my proposed tree list for feedback on gardenweb for feedback. I thought the hardiness zone of the poster was automatically included, but that doesn't appear to be an option any longer. Some years we do get a glimpse of a serious winter. When we do, everything grinds to a complete stop as you can imagine. I would like some trees to gain in height faster than others - perhaps I will more aggressively encourage the single leader on these trees.
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Embothrium(USDA 8 Sunset 5 WA) I'd recommend an extension pole hedge trimmer, will give you an extra 6-10ft of reach To do this you have to be able to lift and control the weight of a power tool out on the end of a pole throughout the entire project each time, put up with the noise, fumes and upkeep of a small engine. Sure would be a lot easier to choose a hedge that will not overwhelm the planting Now you're being ridiculous for the sake of it. Fumes? You're outdoors. Weight? It's a pole with a small blade on it, anyone under 70 and healthy should be able to lift it. Noise? Do you have a quiet lawn mower that mankind doesn't know about yet? Upkeep, buy another one, lawn equipment is cheaper now than 30 years ago. $20 for a weedwacker in 1989, just bought one for $16 this year.
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Jim, your two photos above that shows a road right next to the trees. I am very curious how much growth each year these trees will do each year. Please keep us updated if you can. It appears you have some pretty large trees right next to or overhanging these small trees, so they must get a lot of shade throughout the day? I farthest from any tree expert here, but the more sun these guys get i think the more growth they show? I have some new ones i planted too that the sun will be blocked by other larger trees in the area during the middle summer months.
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Thuja Green Giant Privacy Screening Project Advice Part II

Comments (2)

outback63 Dennison

ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

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