They both look like plums of some sort, they are not sweet or sour cherries. Lets go through some of the problems. The little black bugs and yellow eggs are ladybug larvae and eggs. Those are the "good guys" eating the aphids, don't pull them off. The dead looking branches are probably due to brown rot blossom blight. It will feel slippery when wet if its brbb. The holes in the leaves are some form of shot hole. The galls are probably from some kind of mite. Its hard to tell what the long-term chances of the trees are but they need to get on a spray program if you want to keep them. Read up on these diseases/pests and their treatment, ask more questions if you have them! Scott

Oh thank you all so much!! Miss sherry, I only have one citrus tree actually planted in yard so far, it was here already and it's a Washington navel dwarf, and thought it was dead after all the freezes last winter and all the cats eating leaves,but recently a few shoots of new leaves started growing out from root, original tree (it's tiny) is all dead wood so idk what's going on with the new stems popping up, they are kind of on side right next to the "dead" stems. I need to plant something and get it established before I get bombarded with eggs next summer! Thanks for the coffee suggestions!! I always have coffee around so will try tomorrow!! Thanks again everyone!! So far looks like all of the cats are okay with the lime, had a few that wandered around for a few hours, I guess looking for lemon leaves. Lol, I had one 5th instar a while back, moved him indoors to feed him older satsuma leaves and leave new growth on lemon for the little cats, he had just molted into last instar, and anyway, moved him in, he didn't eat satsuma leaves or the orange leaves I tried and then he made his sling and pupated, never even purged, never ate one bite after molting last time, but he eclosed just fine and flew right off after a couple hours!! Guess he just didn't like change! �;-) I swear there must kit be a ctrr

Anywhere just shy of 6.o-6.5... Vinegar naturally lowers the Ph of your soil safely... You are asking the wrong person to suggest MG...lol But if that is what you are determined to use, then I would strain out all of the peat, then use the bark left behind with a bit of peat added back to it.. 5 parts to one part peat roughly...If it already has enough perlite in it, then no worries..Make it chunky an porous so it's structure holds up over a long period of time, unless you plan on transplanting every 6 months..You will also avoid the infomous "fungas gnat"..:-) You are looking for the soil to not stay wet and collapse over a short time, especially if you weather your tree outside eventually... Mine is fast draining and allows me to fertilize at every watering..It can also rain for days on end, and I never have to worry about root rot. If you live near a nursery supply center that provides a "Farfard Mix", then get the "nursery" blend, or the 3B mix or 53 blend..Higher amount pf bark, and less of peat. I did notice markings on the leaves, but not a concern to me as much as the color of them...

Generally speaking - and I'm no expert here, just have a few houseplants and have been learning a lot from this forum - some plants such as the softer leaves ones will show their displeasure and happiness quite quickly by wilting or perking up quite quickly. But I think some of the thicker leaved firmer plants can look ok for some time even when declining (more water reserves, stronger leaf structure,etc), for example sansevieria (snake plants), so maybe rubber plants are like this too. What I'm trying to say is it may have been going downhill for longer than the two weeks of obvious symptoms. Plus it's possible really high numbers of fungus gnat larvae could have munched on the really fine feeder roots. Although I thought the roots looked good overall. I don't know about the white bugs, you'd need to be sure what they were to know if they damaged it. And the (necessary) repotting was another stress on the plant. Many factors to consider, playing plant detective. It may well be the additive effect of several things. You've had lots of good advice from the experienced people above, on light and soils etc. Personally I would now put it in a bright warm draft-free spot inside, and wait. Don't let the roots dry right out while they're recovering but don't let the soil stay damp either. To achieve this, try using a spray bottle of water on a gentle jet to target where the pruned rootball is, and at the times when you do water more thoroughly leave the pot tilted at 45 degrees (even 30 degrees will help) for 15-20 minutes afterwards and then sit it on towels or paper pushed up against the drain holes for a couple hours. This isn't to remove all the water you just put in, it is to reduce the saturated layer that occurs at the bottom, the "perched water table" (yes, it has a name) Dont fertilise until you see new leaves growing and don't sunburn it by putting it in direct sunshine outside if it's not used to it. Good luck!