How invasive are (weeping white & norway) spruce roots?
lolauren
12 years ago
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Help with new Weeping Norway Spruce
Comments (10)A couple things stand out. Yellowing occurs with too much water-(retention). When planting the tree - no more than 1/3 organic matter should be used unless your soil is beyond horrific. You should check for spider mites - hold a piece of white paper under the yellowing foliage and bang it onto the paper and look for tiny bugs crawling about. I have a hunch it's water related, however. When a hole is dug and the backfill used is compost a bathtub effect is created. Additionally, long term if the roots were to take a liking to different organic matter apart from your native soil.. they will wind and wind themselves in the "better" media and won't grow into native soil, ultimately causing death. It seems (at least to me) that you used full compost when re-planting. That's not a good situation. .05 .05 .05 seems to be the NPK numbers; Nitrogen Phosphorus Potassium, which don't have any effect. It's the amount of composted manure used during planting. Dax...See MoreFound growing below my Weeping Norway Spruce
Comments (3)I have come across a couple of these little shoots - in both cases they were growing in an area of stones underneath downspouts. I reckon they are baby White Pine.......I dont knw whether mine will survive as the roots were way way down - I transplanted them to a pot with the idea of planting them in nearby neglected land so they might develop into trees - which are more interesting than weeds....See Moreweeping norway spruce, do I plant them now?
Comments (8)Ken thanks for jumping in to assist. I see now that I did not offer enough information so I will answer all your questions 1 by 1. Later on today I will take some photos & post them. I can not right now as it is raining hard. 1. As for the pots. They are the typical black pots that the nurseries use to display the specimens for sale. The sizes of each are listed below next to the description/size of each plant. 2. My location is zone 6a in Pennsylvania between Allentown & the Poconos. 3. About my soil, it is terrible, a mix of clay & pulverized shale, I'm in the Slate Belt area. For all my landscaping I have brought in literally "tons" of enriched topsoil, compost etc. which I have ammended to the planting areas, turning in deeply & well. I have been working on this soil for many years. Right now there is an area in the rear of home (shaded most of the day, early morning sun only) that is ready for planting, drainage would be good & the hose bib is close by if needed. 4. Well if size matters, here goes..... (all measurements taken from where soil & truck meet to top of specimen) Norway Spruce #1 is 3' tall in a black 12"w x 9"h pot. Norway Spruce #2 is 2 1/2' tall in a black 10"w x 9"h pot. Boxwood Spiral is 3 1'2' tall in a 15"w x 12" h pot. 5. When I take the photos later today I will tip these babies out of the pots & shoot photos to show the condition of the roots. 6. Now as for the bargain, the Norwood Spruce were $7.50 ea. & the Spiral Boxwoods were $8.50 ea. At those prices I thought I would give it a try to bring them home & hopefully be able to save them from danger. Even though I am a novice & will follow direction & work hard to protect these guys. My ground is not frozen at this point & I do have a nice shaded area behind my house. I am not sure how you "make sure to keep them dormant", watering, mulching etc in this situation. Any education/input would be greatly appreciated....See MoreHelp me plan the future of an awkward Weeping Norway Spruce
Comments (14)Ken-adrian it is not telephone-poled. The leader is only slightly flexible, and bending up a bit could keep it from dragging the ground. it It has just been planted after 3 years in a pot. Hurricanes were an issue in it’s beachside home in CT. Not a worry now. The owners are sentimental about it, it must stay. This is the only logical spot in the small yard with enough sun. My suggested location, not the client’s. I just want to make the best of it. And NOOO I dont want to move it! If I dont have to. It is heavy! I just want to be clear on my options for pruning & training it. 20 year window is all I am concerned with. Your 30 year tree gives me some insight. Any idea on it’s current width? Johnfuda has me concerned, but I am under the impression this is a tree that you can somewhat control the size of with selective pruning or train it as it grows along. Could yearly spading/root pruning keep it from upheaving the patio? I thought spruce were very slow growing, especially if they are not in their native setting. and before planting, roots were circling! I am guessing it is a picea abies ‘pendula’ too. But all pruning/training info I find seems to reference that tree’s first 3 years. This tree is older than that. I am intrigued by the 2nd leader suggestion. I know how to do that on other evergreens. As for letting them battle it out for space with the underplantings— well, in a tiny city garden every inch is precious. I only want to sacrifice the area if doing otherwise will create a stupid looking evergreen....See Moreken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
12 years agodcsteg
12 years agololauren
12 years agodcsteg
12 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
12 years agoricksample
12 years agololauren
12 years agoricksample
12 years agoricksample
12 years agololauren
12 years ago
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