If only we'd had this discussion a week ago. My nephew is a master glass blower and just finished a fellowship at the Toronto Institute of Art. He JUST this week packed up after a visit home and in preparation for his relocating to Vancouver Island. He met a young woman from Toronto while studying in New Zealand, fell in love, and is moving to the island where she teaches. While in New Zealand, he blew all the glass steins, bowls, flasks that were used as props and backdrops in the Hobbit movie that came out last year or year before. I'm going to link you to a thread that discusses soil/water relationships and the impact that relationship has on plant vitality and your ability to help your plant realize its genetic potential. If you do spend some time at that thread, please ask the others if they know where a suitable bark product can be found in Toronto. This link will take you there. The fastest way to a green thumb isn't so dependent on how long you've been at it, as it is on how much you know. Al Here is a link that might be useful: This one should be helpful, too.

Hello Jeff - Yes, I have been scarce lately...I hope to dive back in to our discussions with more vigor going forward. My hope was that this plant would respond as you describe. Essentially stopping the branch from lengthening (while retaining some foliage on it), then perhaps popping another bud or two. Maybe I'll give it a try tonight... T

Kate - I think it's the right choice to leave the brown ends and roots until spring. Just discard the completely dry leaves to keep the plant tidy and let the drying ones take care of themselves. It's riskier to repot now and while the palm isn't in optimal health there doesn't seem any danger of it dying. Lots of time left in winter to research root pruning, getting the right tools, and maybe even considering a better mix. In spring you will probably need sturdy chopsticks (I like metal ones), pruners (sharp, double bladed kind), hose sprayer, and a helping hand to do the job. There is a great deal of helpful threads in the Houzz/Gardenweb Container Forum about this topic. Lots of people in this forum frequent that one too and are very experienced growers. =)

I noticed that the trunk is also soft when I press it. Same for the round part in the planter. Sounds like another case of root rot gone systemic. Not much to be done other than allowing the plant to go completely dry before you water it again. I suggest using a "tell" to "tell" you when it's time to water (see below). If you're the proactive type, you could lift the plant from the pot, remove all soil from the roots, inspect roots and caudex carefully for symptoms of rot, and, if appropriate (you think the plant is still viable), repot into an appropriate medium (one that is very well-aerated and drains exceptionally well. What I use: Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al