I also got one last fall, but only found a place to plant it about a week ago! I read that they need full sun for the best color. Can't wait to see how it does. Its in an area near some Annabell Hydrangea's and I've planted a chartreuse sweet potato vine in front of it. Was thinking I need something red or orange to contrast with it, but that might clash with the pink flowers, mightn't it?

I live in suburban eastern Iowa. My neighbor had a 'Fall Fiesta' sugar maple planted in her front yard earlier this year. There used to be a huge (50 ft tall x 60 ft wide), ugly locust tree in that area, but it rotted and died over the last few years. The new maple should be a beautiful tree. It just started turning orange. She already has a (45 ft x 25 ft) maple (red maple?) in the backyard, which was planted in the 1990s, that turns darkish red. The only thing I am concerned about is the size of the new tree. I didn't really want her to plant such an enormous tree in a small lot like ours. She's in her 60s so she won't be around to see it get 70 ft tall, but I might (40s). At least the new tree is north of my yard and not south. There is one thing I'm curious about. This new sugar maple was planted only about 5 ft from where the old locust tree grew. The locust tree had a huge stump and thick near-surface roots going out in all directions. The stump was ground out, but there are still spots of thick wood only a few feet from the new maple tree. I wonder how that will affect the new tree's growth.

Why, thank you all for your kind words! I sometimes imagine people are thinking: "Oh no - here comes Jack and his bl**dy hakoniwa again - please make it stop!!" heheh Herb - I did post photos on the bonsai forum a while back, and a few said they'd like to have a go at it... but I was really surprised at the number of lurkers on these forums, and the email I received over that period asking for 'instructions' :)) I may start a new "pretty pictures" thread today (if you can stand it) and post a few new ones.. Jack

Hello TJ, The following article contains instructions to remove invasive Norway Maple from a woodland, using a 'stepped' approach: "What to do if you suspect a Natural Area is being invaded by Exotic Trees: It is not easy to contemplate removal of trees as part of sensitive environmental management, however the fact is that invasive exotics are causing significant environmental disruption worldwide, resulting in the loss of biodiversity and ecological functioning to natural ecosystems. First, a survey of the site should be conducted identifying remaining native species of trees and shrubs, and invading exotics such as Norway Maple, European Buckhorn, Tatarian and Amur Honeysuckle. Where there are only a few exotics saplings mixed with native species, these invaders could likely be removed without causing any disruption. The problem arises when the forest canopy is mostly exotic, since removing all of them at once could cause serious problems, including opening the site to further invasions of exotics and soil erosion. Removals around any existing native trees would be a start, as well as removing all exotic seedlings, and saplings where larger trees form the canopy. Where large exotic trees exist, removing the lower limbs to allow light to the forest floor is an initial step to consider where complete removal would open up the forest canopy too severely. If native tree seedlings are not naturally establishing, then planting is called for. As the native forest grows, further thinning of the exotics can take place, until they and the seed source is eventually eliminated. Through this process, a return to a native forest association should occur without opening the forest canopy. Since the ground flora may recover under the lighter shade than Norway Maple provides, it is important that it not be further impacted by invading plants of open conditions that would occur if the canopy were opened too quickly." One word of caution: Norway Maples put out "phytotoxins" - which are chemicals that are toxic to most native plants. It is not just the shade, but the phytotoxins which prevent the establishment of native understory, shrub and groundcover layers below Norway Maples - even with thinned branches overhead. My neighbours and I have wasted thousands of dollars trying to plant under Norways in our ravine. The majority die - even when we've created elaborate watering systems to compensate for the Norways (I know - defeats the whole point of planting natives in the first place!). We've had some success by replacing large areas of soil when we plant - but we've recently learned the phytotoxins are in the leaves as well - so those plants just take longer to die. Not to discourage you - it only seems to relentlessly kill plants in some locations - not all. But if anyone has any information on NM phytotoxins - and what to do about it so that we have better success establishing a native layer (ANY native layer - after a few years of NM we have only three layers: 100+ year old oaks, complete NM understory,rapidly eroding bare sandy soil with a few still hanging-on hardcore natives (toad lilly, trillium)) - I'd really appreciate hearing about it! Here is a link that might be useful: Norway Maple: Reassessing the threat to natural areas