Trumpet Vine likes lots of light so it might not grow under a maple. Virginia creeper can get by with considerably less light. What you have might be the closely related woodbine (Parthenocissus inserta aka P. vitacea) which does not have adhesive discs on its tendrils and therefore can't climb.

Ultimately a vine is probably not going to shade out saplings of Norway maple as they require very little light. Usually it is the Norway maple that shades everything else out.

Hello TJ,
The following article contains instructions to remove invasive Norway Maple from a woodland, using a 'stepped' approach:

"What to do if you suspect a Natural Area is being invaded by Exotic Trees:

It is not easy to contemplate removal of trees as part of sensitive environmental management, however the fact is that invasive exotics are causing significant environmental disruption worldwide, resulting in the loss of biodiversity and ecological functioning to natural ecosystems.

First, a survey of the site should be conducted identifying remaining native species of trees and shrubs, and invading exotics such as Norway Maple, European Buckhorn, Tatarian and Amur Honeysuckle. Where there are only a few exotics saplings mixed with native species, these invaders could likely be removed without causing any disruption. The problem arises when the forest canopy is mostly exotic, since removing all of them at once could cause serious problems, including opening the site to further invasions of exotics and soil erosion. Removals around any existing native trees would be a start, as well as removing all exotic seedlings, and saplings where larger trees form the canopy. Where large exotic trees exist, removing the lower limbs to allow light to the forest floor is an initial step to consider where complete removal would open up the forest canopy too severely. If native tree seedlings are not naturally establishing, then planting is called for. As the native forest grows, further thinning of the exotics can take place, until they and the seed source is eventually eliminated. Through this process, a return to a native forest association should occur without opening the forest canopy. Since the ground flora may recover under the lighter shade than Norway Maple provides, it is important that it not be further impacted by invading plants of open conditions that would occur if the canopy were opened too quickly."

One word of caution: Norway Maples put out "phytotoxins" - which are chemicals that are toxic to most native plants. It is not just the shade, but the phytotoxins which prevent the establishment of native understory, shrub and groundcover layers below Norway Maples - even with thinned branches overhead. My neighbours and I have wasted thousands of dollars trying to plant under Norways in our ravine. The majority die - even when we've created elaborate watering systems to compensate for the Norways (I know - defeats the whole point of planting natives in the first place!). We've had some success by replacing large areas of soil when we plant - but we've recently learned the phytotoxins are in the leaves as well - so those plants just take longer to die. Not to discourage you - it only seems to relentlessly kill plants in some locations - not all.

But if anyone has any information on NM phytotoxins - and what to do about it so that we have better success establishing a native layer (ANY native layer - after a few years of NM we have only three layers: 100+ year old oaks, complete NM understory,rapidly eroding bare sandy soil with a few still hanging-on hardcore natives (toad lilly, trillium)) - I'd really appreciate hearing about it!

Here is a link that might be useful: Norway Maple: Reassessing the threat to natural areas

Hi Karate, 8 years ago I moved to this house - it has a 1.25 acre lot that was extremely overgrown with invasives, including 5 large Norway maples, some medium sized ones, and literally hundreds of smaller Norways and seedlings. It was also overgrown with Oriental bittersweet - some large vines 3-4 inches in diameter. I've worked many hours along with friends with chainsaws to remove and cut/poison these and smaller invasives. Also had a tree service come twice, they removed 4 of the Norways (1 huge one left). Several friends have come and cut up and removed the wood for burning in their wood stoves at no cost.

JCTL is spot on - Acer platanoides (Norway) has a very thick canopy which casts dense shade, their roots suck all the moisture out of the ground, and they are allelopathic (toxins exuded to discourage growth of other plants). Not much grows under a Norway, including the Oriental bittersweet vines - which were strangling other species of trees. Unfortuntely I don't think you'll have much luck growing a vine up a Norway.

IMO, you will need to remove the Norways to establish other plantings. If you can't afford a tree service, you can consider girdling them and letting them die, if they are not at risk of falling on any structures.

JCT, I have had great luck establishing gardens around the roots of the removed Norways by using sheet composting aka lasagne beds. It may take awhile for the toxins to dissipate and the organic layers to break down, but the gardens have been very productive! Also, diligence is required to remove the seedlings of baby Norways or other invasives because there will be a resurgence in growth in the understory when a large Norway is removed. Would be happy to discuss in more detail if you'd like.

PS Acer platanoides is now a prohibited plant species in our state!

Sorry for no reply! I have girdled the maple and will be taking it down at some point in the future. I'm planting a native fringe tree and sweetbay magnolia in its place.

Thanks all!
T.J.

Hi all, I am a little late to the party, but I would like to throw in a few good words for much-maligned Norway. More to the point, I am curious where you are located. I am fascinated by the symbiotic life of the vine and the tree and the beautiful forms that develop.

If anyone is still around I will post a picture of what his will look like if it lasts for twenty years or so