Blood orange is a type of sweet oranges and sweet oranges are all incompatible with Calamondin. There would be long term decline on Blood orange if it took. The solution is to graft a Meyer Lemon first to the Calamondin, and when the Meyer lemon has grown well, graft the Moro Blood Orange to it, and then you will have long lasting graft. I grafted 101-n-1 citrus tree so I have the experience.

Thanks Tom. I have too many trees to keep the grass back on all of them by hand and I don't want to use a herbicide so....I just pitch in when I can and let them duke it out until they ultimately shade out the grass. My trees grow slower but I also have more time to play with a wood lathe, remodel my house, play mandolin, keep my car running, and go fishing! I have a neighbor who had a commercial Satsuma orchard that she bulldozed several years ago after a hard freeze. My Satsuma trees survived with practically no damage....maybe it was luck, soil, or exposure differences....or maybe smaller growth rings and a more organic approach leads to a more hardy tree. It's a good point though Tom.....I just don't make the time and I find ways to rationalize it!

Hello Kvetchlambkin and Susanne thanks guy's the greenhouse is fantastic right now with all of the blossom's opening up I wish you guy's where here you would absolutely love all the scents. Kvetchlambkin that's to bad that you can't purchase grafted citrus from in your area . It sure is nice purchasing exactly what you want on line but you just can't beat purchasing them in a store , dragging the tree's all off the skid making a huge mess checking for the best one and searching for that tree you've been searching for forever. I tell you that my heart rate elevates so high when going through a skid of citrus in a store nothing like it . Kvetchlambkin Meyers are very finicky with their environment especially if it's been outside all summer actually all citrus are but the Meyer really has a hard time adjusting I almost lost my 14 yr old Meyer last winter . Try to give it lot's of light as much as possible and watch the watering. Place a fan near it for circulation. Hello Susanne bugs Lol scale they can spread in there but it's funny they seem to hit some tree's worst then others . Last winter I had scale but they didn't do any damage to the tree's . During the summer the scales seem to just dissappear. Scale is the only pest I seem to get during the winter . Night time temperature that I would love to have all winter is 55-60 but it's not easy keeping those kind of temperature's when it's minus 30 outside. I have lights in my Greenhouse on at 6.00 am and I shut them off at 9.30 pm which coincidently is my bedtime . Susanne your setup is beautiful your doing everything right you shouldn't run into any problems. Give them lot's and lot's of light , you can drop your night time temps while the lights are off you want to mimic the outside and use lot's of fans for air circulation great for the tree's and helps with the over watering issue . Get a feel for your tree's in their pots, water them then remember how heavy they felt after watering if they still feel almost as heavy days later don't water remember the surface might dry but a couple inches down it could be very moist . The tree's will be very slow to take up water for a few weeks after bringing them in so make sure not to over water . I have faith in you Susanne you will do just fine . Brian

Thanks, Evan! It probably is the difference in climate, since it is definitely colder up here in the foothills. I leave my Moro outside as long as possible so that it gets as much time in the 30F's as I feel it can tolerate. This season, it actually got a light snow. Also, I've held off harvesting them for as long as possible. Josh