Grafting Moro Blood orange to Calamondin Rootstock
citrusweekendwarrior
9 years ago
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hoosierquilt USDA 10A Sunset 23 Vista CA
9 years agocitrusweekendwarrior
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Cocktail + Moro Blood Orange Juice - Yum!
Comments (13)Well, that's because there are no Cocktails in that bowl, mrtexas :-) You're looking at Bearrs limes, Moro oranges and Dekopon mandarins. Yes, the Dekopons do resemble a Minneola a bit due to the neck. The Dekopon is a cross between a Kiyomi tangor (which is a cross of orange and satsuma mandarin) and a ponkan (hence the neck). They are not available for us in tree-form, yet, due to the very strict patent regulations. They are being grown by just a handful of growers in the Central Valley in California, and are being marketed as Sumo mandarins due to the extremely large size (as large or larger than a Minneola.) We are all anxiously awaiting budwood from UCR CCPP to be able to graft and grow, or for growers to do so, and provide trees for those who would like a backyard Dekopon. But, that's going to be a few years out, still. Definitely NOT a Minneola :-) I don't care for Minneolas as they're a wee bit too tart for my liking. Which is odd, because I love grapefruit and pommelo hybrids due to their sweeter taste. But for me, the Minneola just tastes like a tart orange, and not a sweet grapefruit :-) The Cocktails, which are most definitely Cocktails, are LONG gone, as they are my most favorite citrus in my yard. I squeeze two every morning, so I blew through them on my young tree in short time. Going to the Farmer's Market tomorrow to try to find some. Boo. But, I am now enjoying the few Melogolds I have. The Oro Blancos are also gone, too. But, everything is getting ready to bloom, so hoping for bigger crops this year! Patty S....See MoreMoro Navel Blood orange?
Comments (7)First, don't think you can judge ripeness of the Moro by skin blush. That actually occurs due to divergences in temps. So, you'll see that the oranges on the north side of your tree will be more blushed than those on the warmer, south side :-) In my area of the country, Moros are ripe between December and February. And yes, navels are natural mutations. You'll see them pop up now and then. Watch that branch. Place a marker or ribbon on it and see if that branch continues to "sport" navel Moros. If so, you've got a sport branch that can then be grafted to produce an entire Moro navel orange tree :-) Oranges with navels tend to be seedless/nearly seedless, which is always a perk when eating fruit out of hand. Here is an interesting article about the Navel orange and how they came about. Patty S. Here is a link that might be useful: NPR: Who Put the Navel in the Navel Orange...See MoreFound 2 seeds in a Moro blood orange, worth growing?
Comments (3)I have 3 ruby red grapefruit and 3 minneola tangelos that are about 2 inches high now. i know they may not fruit for a long time and there may be a chance the fruit is terrible. But I do love growing trees and the fruit if any is a bonus. mike...See Moremoro blood orange - all leaves are yellow
Comments (31)Patty, the nitrogen in fertilizers can make the growing medium become either more acidic (lower the pH) or less acidic/more basic (raise the pH). There are three types of nitrogen used in fertilizers: ammoniacal nitrogen (NH4+), nitrate nitrogen (NO3-) and urea. Fertilizing with ammoniacal nitrogen causes the medium-pH to DECREASE (become MORE acid) because H+ (acidic protons) are secreted from the tree's roots. Urea is converted into ammoniacal nitrogen in the growing medium, and therefore can be thought of as another source of ammoniacal nitrogen. In contrast, fertilizing with a nitrate nitrogen fertilizer INCREASES medium-pH (becomes LESS acid/more caustic) because the tree's roots secrete bases (OH-). Stressbaby is correct in stating that 7 is a neutral pH. Numbers lower than 7 denotes an acid solution, and numbers grater than 7 denotes a basic solution. The pH scale is also logrithmic. So a potting soil with a pH of 6 is ten times more acidic than a potting soil of pH 7. A potting soil with a pH of 5 is ten times more acid than a potting soil of pH 6, and 100 times more acidic than a potting soil of pH 7. A potting soil with a pH of 4 is ten times more acid than a potting soil with a pH of 5, and a 100 times more acid than a pH of 6 and 1000 times more acidic than a potting soil with a PH of 7. An so no and so on. Citrus will ALWAYS take up nutrients in a 5-1-3 ratio no matter what formulation you give them. Much more important than what type of fertilze to use for flower fruit set is an ample supply of water. Water is the prerequisite for ALL STAGES of fruit development. Water stress is particularly dangerous during fruit set, leading to a massive drop of fruitlets. Increase in size and juice content are also largely dependent upon the availability of water. So at bloom and fruit set, keep the moisture level of the growing medium up. This is where a well draining, lite aerable "soil" that at the same time retains a higher amount of water, such as CHC's, becomes important. Nutrition from fertilizing is important as well. Potassium plays a special role in fruit development. I would recomend a fertilization with a fertilizer formula higher in nitrogen and potassium, such as a fertilizer with a 5-1-3 ratio, or something more or less close. I also give my trees a nitrogen/potassium foliar spray, using Potassium Nitrate, a month before bloom and again a month after fruit set. Take care. - Millet...See Morecitrusweekendwarrior
9 years agoBahamaDan Zone 12b Subtropics
8 years agoJoe Real
8 years ago
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