Here in the PNW we have two types of cane borers--rose cane borers and raspberry cane borers. Rose cane borers are mostly annoying. They kill the top inch or two of the rose cane but new growth will emerge further down the cane and the rose will be fine. Some people will seal the cane but those of us who have lots of roses don't bother--it takes too much time! Raspberry cane borers are a differant matter. They will burrrow all the way down the cane and even into the crown of the plant and maybe kill the rose. Since you say your rose was killed I'm guessing that this is what you have. The good news is that roses are not the prefered food of raspberry cane borers--they prefer raspberries and if they can't get them they go for blackberries. If you have them on your roses it is usually a sign that somewhere in your neighborhood someone has taken out their raspberries or taken out blackberries and the hungry critters ate your roses. After a few years the cane borers will either die out or the raspberries or blackberries will come back and they will go eat those. In the meantime, you can control the borers by keeping an eye on your roses and if you see dieback on the canes below two inches, cut back the cane to below the dieback. You will see a catapillar-ish looking thing at the bottom of the tunnel. Dispose of it. The good news is that since these critters have a one year life cycle, once you have disposed of them, they will not come back for a year. I don't know if a systemic insecticide will work. Systemics cannot be used on edibles and since this is mainly a pest of raspberries, the insecticides will not be labeled for use on raspberry cane borers. But they might work for raspberry cane borers on roses. But it is probably less work to just cut them out when you see them rather than spraying.

The rust color is probably dead leaf. It can be caused by sun, wind or cold. If sun it will hit the top and most exposed leaves most and will affect the center of the leaf. If it is wind cold it will affect the edges of the leaves. Leaf spots have several origins: * Brown, reddish-brown or purplish leaf spots that occur on many cultivars, including R. 'Blue Ensign' and R. 'Mrs. G. W. Leak', are physiological and not disease caused. These spots are generally purplish and are inherent in the cultivar. Environmental stress may increase their appearance. They do no harm to the plant. * Some leaf spots are caused by a virus thought to be a potexvirus, the most common ailment being called Necrotic Ring Spot. The symptoms are reddish-brown rings or spots on the leaves. It generally occurs only on the two year leaves of a few rhododendron cultivars such as R. 'Unique', or on Kalmia latifolia. It also appears on the first year foliage of some R. 'Loderi' clones. Little is known about the disease and a does not seem to spread from one cultivar to another. No control is known or generally necessary. * Leaf spotting can also be caused by chemical injury, such as drift from cleaners, paints, or chemicals used to kill moss on roofs as shown in the photo on the right. Sometimes the results of such injury may not show up for weeks or months. * There are a number of leaf spots or burns caused by fungi such as Botrytis cinerea, Pestalotia rhododendri, Phyllosticta, Septoria and others. Many are secondary infections happening after mechanical damage or environmental stress, such as sunburn, drought, winter damage or windburn. They generally occur during wet weather and many times are self limiting with drier weather. Good sanitation is helpful, so remove brown and fallen leaves. Also provide good air circulation. Spraying with Benomyl or similar fungicide can be useful, but is frequently not necessary. * Young Azalea Leafminers, Caloptilia azaleella: (also known as azalea leafroller) larvae tunnel inside leaves and form elongate blotches in April or May. These blotches may resemble leaf spot diseases. Older larvae exit the tunnels, curl the leaf tip and feed inside the curl. Large populations cause the leaves to turn brown and drop from the plant. Leaves developing brown lesions and eventually the entire leaf will brown and separate from the stem is a symptom of Rhizoctonia Web Blight. It causes dieback of interior leaves of compact tightly-growing azaleas within irrigated landscape beds. Rhizoctonia web blight is often seen during the warmer, humid summer months. Infection begins in the interior of the plant as the fungus survives in the soil or container rooting medium. . The affected leaves often remain matted together by the funguss web-like growth (hyphae) that holds the brown leaves within the canopy. As the temperature cools in the fall, the fungus stops growing and the matted leaves drop from the plant. The disease is only a problem in landscape azaleas that are sprinkler irrigated. Wet foliage and high humidity favor infection. Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to irrigate landscape beds. Also, remove fallen leaf debris from beneath plants. Fungicides can provide some control but should not be relied upon solely. Apply fungicides at the first sign of disease and continue through the summer months.

Raymond, you will likely get more answers if you ask your question on a new post. That said, 1st photo looks like leaf miner damage & on 2nd, I spy a Giant Swallowtail caterpillar - which is most likely NOT responsible for the leaf damage (in my experience they eat very little & the butterflies are gorgeous). The bleached, dried out areas on the leaves in photo 2 look similar to herbicide damage, or some other chemical maybe...?

its time for deciduous plants .. to lose there leaves... in the process of shutting down.. all kinds of things happen.. attack.. who cares... they are falling off ... knowing for the sake of knowledge is approved.. just no need to go spraying anything.. is my point... ken