You have received excellent suggestions, really. I just add two candidates I would consider. Both are landscaping roses by meilland and as such have the problem of being NOT fragrant. However, they are healthy and repeat well. One is "botticelli" (Meisylpho ) , pinkish orange (starts pink then turns pink-orange): (the dots on the leaves are paint, I was painting some wooden windows nearby) The other is "cocorico" (Meilasso ), bicolor. Cocorico came in my garden due to a mistake by the nursery, and I was angry, but when I saw these blooms I was no more angry, not at all: PS: lavender is used together with roses also because it is said to be a deterrent for aphids. Furthermore, if used together with HT roses, lavender covers their ugly naked canes.

Kate, sorry to make you change your plans...LOL. I had a feeling once you saw how pretty this rose is you would want it (again). Terry, Mine does rebloom off and on all summer. It is also quite healthy and I haven't had any disease issues. Lois, Mine is an ownroot but has never suckered. It is 4 years old and no sign of suckering. Celeste

Hi Char....I saw your post a few days ago and didn't want to respond until I thought Rhodyman had seen it too, take a chance on moving it down. But I'm glad things are working out for you with your plants - they aren't too difficult, just have some specific needs to be met and it sounds like you've done that well.

Bkvlad - What we do with our plants is always a personal preference, but what's best for the plant often conflicts with our good intentions. Some things to help you decide what to do. As long as there is green on the leaf and the plant hasn't shed it, the leaf is making more energy than it is using. IOW, it's a net contributor to the plant's ability to make and store energy, so there is some benefit to the plant if you decide to keep the damaged leaves, but not much of a loss if you decide they need to go. If the plant was very weak and circling the drain, you would surely want to keep any green tissues on the plant until the plant is on the road to recovery. I like trunks that look like they've been formed by the hand of nature, that the elements or even natural predation was at some time a part of how the plant was formed, but that's just me. You can very easily have your wish for a branch growing from the leaf axil (crotch) of the lower leaves. All you need to do is cut the plant off just a little above those 2 leaves, and start the top as a cutting. A new branch will grow from EACH of the leaf axils. If you trim one of the new branches off after they both start growing, you will literally be able to design the shape of your trunk by selectively removing branches as the plant grows. You don't have to allow the plant to be in control over how it grows. By taking control, you can have a very unique plant. I water all of my plants on a schedule because I can and it's easier to remember who gets watered every 5 days and who gets watered every 3 days. The advice to water on an as needed basis is good advice if your soil is such that that it remains soggy after watering long enough to inhibit efficient root function or actually cause root rot or the death of fine roots. If your soil is consistent with how it looks in the picture from top to pot bottom, you actually can water on a schedule w/o worry, but do be reasonable. Water your plant before it tells you if needs water. Wrinkled leaves or loss of turgidity (internal water pressure) on a jade plant tell you the plant has suffered drought stress for quite some time, not something the plant likes. You have a soil that allows you to avoid this limitation, so take advantage of it and don't follow a limiting convention. Keep in mind that just because a plant tolerates harsh or limiting conditions, is not even close to an indication it likes them. Jades actually like plenty of water and fertilizer - they just don't tolerate wet feet. Great job turning your plant around, BTW. Al