davidv would know the best answer to your question. he's been posting on the thread about pungens St. Mary's and pungens Christine thread. You might lure him over here.

Dax

This is how I do 95% of my grafting. My grafts are grafted just about 1/2" to 1" above the rhizome. This will allow you to bury the top of the union about 1/2" to 1" below the soil surface. From my experience the callous on the union will develop root growth.

I do not know of any spruce that is incompatible with Norway Spruce but the spruce you are talking about is somewhat of an extinct species. It can't hurt to try.

The cut should not be to deep in the root stock. You just want to slice into the cambium layer exposing the primary phloem (wood). This is a very thin veneer cut. Too deep can result in a weakened root stock or outright death.

After grafting if you have the ability I suggest to plunge the graft/union below a medium to keep the air out and moisture in, this will also help to produce the root from callous that you are looking for. Be careful not to over water but humidity is essential.

Dave

If I get those grafts, I will try to do this. The "union" is somewhat unclear to me. You mean the place where the graft is place on the Picea Abies??
And I have seen movies on how to make grafts on trees. They bind it. I guess the roots then will sprout above the tape used to bind the two together??

Yes you create the union by inserting the scion into the rootstock. A union. I do not use grafting tape. I use budding strips and wrap the scion and union with a downward spiral motion. There are space between the stips of rubber where I can see the union. It is there that the roots will come from. I believe if you use the tape that after the plant is calloused and united and the tape removed is when you can start the process of submerging the union to start the rooting procedure. Do not think roots will appear right away although I have seen it happen but it can take as long as a year or so to achieve what you want.

Dave

reread it and the alinea is clear. Why aren't you just putting cuttings into soil? I read it over here:

http://www.for.gov.bc.ca/hfd/pubs/docs/wp/wp46.pdf

So this is possible. It also warns about keeping it moist. My 60 cm picea abies seedlings are outside and it is freezing (and of course warm weather will have to wait for another 3 months or so). Should I get them inside and keep them inside at 18 C to 20 C? I think grafts won't suvive
-10 C or so??

(Some but not many) pines/spruces/etc- will root but the vast majority do not. Juvenility has a powerful influence when rooting "trees." What I'm saying is that (some) culitvars are known to root, again, it's a very small minority. For better information, I refer you to the ultimate source book - and it will answer all your questions:
Dirr, Michael A and Heuser, Charles, Jr. ÂThe Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation: From Seed to Tissue CultureÂ; (Second Edition 2006); Varsity Press, Inc. ISBN: 0942375092 or ISBN: 13: 978-0-942375-09-1

Keep in mind that what works for one guy may not work for the other. Your controlled environment/climate/prophouse/etc- all make or break the deal in the end. Aftercare, too, is not that easy! You could do everything right and then a hot day comes thru and next thing you know your grafts got cooked . . cuttings, whatever. It's a baby-sitting job of sorts. Too much water or not enough and there you go too - here one day but gone the next.

Dax

Well, that is very encouraging! ;-) No, seriously, I understand but may be that is also the fun behind. To theorize, then do it and then deal with losses and also understanding what made things go right after all.

There you go, good luck. Remember the three aspects of success are:
Temperature
Light
Humidity

Dirr/Heuser will guide you thru the many processes, available. It's really the first book any propagator will refer to you.

Dax