Hi Brooke -- We moved a fence last year (August or September) and I had to move six clematis growing on the fence. The only one I lost was an enormous Sweet Autumn Clematis that was evidently too big to move. I may have been lucky, but all I did was fill the new hole with lots of good stuff before moving the plant, and watered the heck out of them every day for the first week. They're a little stumpy this year, but they're blooming! Chris

Rainyday, I was in the same position last summer. I dug my 'Proteus' and divided it in the middle of summer with no ill effects, all three pieces were replanted and are doing well. I see you are zone 8 do you have a mild winter, if not I'd wait till spring. Annette Here is a link that might be useful: Moving a mature Clematis

is it budding out??? sometimes.. we overthink this stuff ... if you went to the store today ... and found one you liked.. what would it look like??? would it be 7 foot tall ... nooooo... most likely it would be a 8 to 12 inch stick.. sticking out of the media ... with 3 to 5 buds coming out ... yes ...??? well.. then that is what yours should look like.. after you trim it back ... it just isnt worth the aggravation and work to bother with the rest of it.. and that is why the pro's trim them that way ... its just easier ... time is money.. after all ... ken

"Can you name a single clematis vendor who recommends potting up their plant instead of placing in the ground?" No. But that is not very surprising. Why would a vendor suggest a methodology that would indicate that the plants they ship are not mature enough to planted directly in the ground? And TBH, most specialty vendors DO ship out at least 2 year old plants in quart sized or larger containers. However, most clematis authorities - not vendors - do recommend growing on young, small vines for at least a season or two before direct planting. From the ICS: "Packaged clematis, including those from most mail-order sources, are commonly less than two years old and not very strongly rooted. Usually it is better to grow one of these on for a few months in a 1- or 2- gallon pot than to put it straight into the ground. Young clematis do not object to having their root systems confined for a while, whereas if they are abandoned in a big hole at that tender age they may have trouble getting established. Even if your clematis is a better-rooted specimen in the standard gallon pot, you might consider burying it pot and all in the planting hole, lifting it in the Fall when it has done all it can for the year, removing the pot, and setting the plant back in. This lets the root system develop undisturbed, and also gives you a chance to move the clematis to another site, if you've had second thoughts. (Bear in mind that potted clematis may come with the stake fastened to the pot. No matter when you elect to take out the plant, remove the staple first!)" And many, many vendors and clematis authorities promote growing clematis in containers rather than in the ground for all manner of reasons and some - like Raymond Evison - breed clematis specifically intended for that purpose. Linda Beutler, the current ICS president just did a webinar on growing clems in containers and you would need to look hard to find a clematis authority more knowledgeable or experienced than her! You seem very adamant that your way is the only "correct" way to grow clems but almost 50 years of growing them personally and professionally (including time at a clematis specialty nursery) would indicate that is simply not true. And this is easily borne out from a host of other very reputable sources. But I have no interest in arguing this point with you. Feel free to do what ever you want but please don't come into these discussions making these absolute pronouncements that they can only be successfully grown your way. It simply isn't true and there are 100's of growers that can attest to that.