Middle to end of March is when I request mine.

Dave

If they are coming from the west coat I have them sent the end of february or not until late April or May. If you get them between those time frames they are often pushing new growth while things in the midwest are still dormant. I have never had problems getting plant that are dormant. David

I wholeheartedly agree April-May to avoid most of the surprises that our weather throws at us

I request as late as possible from anything not local as it seems everywhere I buy from is in warmer zones.

Best anyone can do.

Dax

Thanks Dave, David & Jeff. Being way too anxious to wait until late April/May, I'm thinking if I have them shipped about March 1 (from West coast) while still dormant, they could be stored in unheated garage w/windows and slowly begin to break dormancy and push growth after shipment, and then be planted at the earliest possible opportunity as weather allows. Does this thinking make sense?

Thanks Dax. I sent my message before seeing your post. What is the downside to receiving earlier rather than later, as long as I have a sheltered location with light in which to store them?

The biggest downside is that your windows in your garage won't provide enough light for healthy new growth and if the plants are shipped with their roots in plastic bags you could have them suffer from the lack of air available to the roots and the ease of over watering them in the bags.(thus rotting the roots) Of course the other big potential downside to receiving your plants early is that they get frozen solid during shipment, damaging or even killing them.

Hi Kim,

I would contact who I was getting them from and make sure the plants are dormant when they are shipped. If they are dormant plant in 1 and 5 gallon and a few years old they could be plant out as soon as you can work the soil . If they are younger plants then I would wait until after the chance of a hard frost is over before planting. David

are they guaranteed???

if so, then they are shipped when the guarantor deems appropriate ...

if you fool with their deliver scheme ... YOU PROBABLY WAIVE ALL GUARANTEE's ....

the seller ... as noted above ... would be in the best position to advise you ....

one problem with conifers .... if dormant... you don't know if they are alive ... as they can be evergreen for up to a year after death ... by waiting until after they bud up ... you know you are getting a live plant ....

ken

The question is identical to "when is the best time to plant conifers?"

Somebody says - May, somebody insists on August/September. My answer: THE BEST IS WHEN YOU HAVE FREE TIME. What to do if during May or September you are permanently on business trips? Postpone to the next term??? In such a way I planted hundreds of spruces - 100% survival (I don't exaggerate). Significantly less pines - 30% are gone due to heavy and wet soil, but independently of planting season.

Concerning garages and light: I plant very small conifers into pots. During winter - these are moved into a garage with a small window. When no of pots grew up to 60 and more (too much for the small window), I moved part of them into a basement w/o windows, but with the artificial light. The result: all of them were looking as "from posters", especially if compared with their relatives that spent the whole winter outdoors.

Conclusion: if you have a wish, time and conditions - what's the reason for postponing? Our life is quite short - an ordinary spruce lives mush longer...

(Important note: I am an amateur)

In Zone 4a, Minnesota, I *prefer* to receive conifers and trees via mail order between the 15th of April and the 15th of May. The weather is usually OK by then for the plants to be shipped here. In your zone, you should be able to receive plants earlier than this.

Don't have the plants shipped "just to have them in your possession" when you may unduly stress the plants by trying to hold them until the weather is suitable for planting. Shipping is enough stress for the plants.

I find it odd that the Conifer Society is going to ship all of the collector plants in mid-March. I am a member of the Conifer society, but the weather here in MN will most-likely not be favorable to receive plants (freezing temps still the norm.) The Conifer society should know better than to simply ship all plants at a particular time of year without regard to where the plants are going. The conifer society loses credibility and points, in my book, for this. I would expect this kind of service from the really terrible nurseries like Spring Hill and Gurneys. It's really too bad.
My .02
Mike

Thanks everyone for your input. I am placing orders with Stanley & Sons & Forest Farm. Neither list suggested delivery dates, but rather give you the opportunity to request a delivery date. I called Stanley this morning and they said they normally ship around April 1 to Zone 5, but they ship everywhere, all year, and will ship as the customer requests. I also checked the ACS collector conifer shipping info, and they indicate the conifers will be shipped dormant in early March, exact date to be determined by shipper. I assume they will stagger shipping dates based on recipient zone. Just FYI, I received a Wollemi Pine from National Geo in mid-December, but our weather has been unseasonably warm, I think it was about 50 the day it was delivered. It looks great and appears to be thriving in the garage window, moving outdoors for a day or two when temps have been unusually warm and rainy (we've had a lot of 50 and even 60 degree days!) I guess I'm hoping this trend will continue into spring, but I do know that blizzards in mid-March are not unusual around here.

Hope everyone is having as much fun as I am in putting together those spring shopping/shipping lists!!

Regards,
Kim

The very best indicator (for me) in regards to planting nursery stock is if the leaves of Pin Oaks have opened.

Other than that, if your nursery stock breaks bud and other species of trees (this might be asking a lot for many people - I realize this) but, the best indicator is if the species around your area are also bud broken, then consider things fine.

Like I say, the old farmers almanac expression relates to the Pin Oak: Quercus palustris.

Dax

Chicagoland zone 5 - first or second week of april, is when I try to get stuff. That way you are past the hard freezes mostly and you take advantage of those spring rains.

i dont agree with Stanley .... these zone 8 people just have no clue about zone 5 .....

if the plants are budded out ... and tender.. you will have to protect them until late may in zone 5 ..... which is simple.. if you put them in a wagon and pull them in and out of the garage from 4/1 thru 6/1 ... hard frost or freeze can kill tender new growth .. and on most first year grafts.. you may only have one bud ....

i really screwed this up this spring.. got an early delivery from SS ... spring was real mild.. and i got so geaked.. i planted them straight into the ground... a few weeks later.. we got a few good frosts.. which destroyed half of my 1500 hosta[they spring back though] .. and it killed 3 of my SS plants ... i am out 50 to 75 bucks .... ouch ... if i was thinking straight.. i would have put them int he wagon ...

if you contact SS and ask them when the plants are still COMPLETELY DORMANT .. up/over in the confer god's heaven [oregon] ... and have them ship them to you completely dormant.. they can go straight in the ground when workable in your zone... if zone 5.. that is early april .... unfortunately .... at that time in oregon .. the plants are breaking bud.. no time to ship to a colder zone.. and is it really good to ship tender growth .. it breaks too easily ....

anyway ... i vote for shipping when Stanley says the new growth has hardened off ... and you are near your last frost free date .... mid to late may ...

which means they may be out of stock of some of the rarer things.. but that is half the fun of collecting.. some dream plants i have ordered 3 to 5 times.. and i am still hoping to get one someday .....

others do other things... and if they mess up and lose the plant.. they understand .... and accept the loss ....

as a newbie .. i want you to truly understand that the costs and risks are very high ..... and i wish you all the luck in the world ....

ken

PS: if you have to hold them over .... water them once at delivery [they tend to ship dry ... no need to pay freight on water] .... and then not again until they are bone dry ... which in spring might not occur until the heat of june .... i have killed more conifers with too much water than i care to admit .. the only exception is if the plant is completely root bound .... and sucks up the water as fast as you can put it on .... when you water the first time ... feel the weight of the pot .. and dont water again until you nearly throw it over your head when trying to lift it.. because it is so dry, and you expected a heavy pot.. lol ...

PPS: what are you getting???? have i enabled you????

Thanks klimkm and Ken. There is certainly a diversity of opinions on the best time to receive the plants, but I think I'm gathering it is best to either receive them fully dormant, or after the new growth has hardened off, but not during the period of time when they are pushing new growth. This all makes sense to me, and, being overly optimistic we'll continue having mild weather, and willing to take the risk and care for them before planting, I'm leaning towards early delivery, perhaps around 3/1. I like your idea Ken of keeping them in a wagon and moving them in and out of the garage to expose them slowly to their new environment. When you see what I'm ordering, you're gonna think I'm crazy:
From Stanley & Son:
Cedrus deodora 'Divinely Blue'
Cedrus deodora 'Gold Cascade'
Cedrus deodora 'Klondike'
Cham lawsoniana 'Snow Queen'
Pinus reflexilis 'Glauca Reflexa'
Pinus thunbergii 'Thunderhead'
Sequoiadendron gig 'Bultinck Yellow'
Tsuga canadensis 'Curly'
Tsuga canadensis 'Gentsch White'
Thujopsis dolobrata 'Nana'

I know, I know, several of these are zone 6 plants. But I do have a rather protected area where they will be planted, and we are only about an hour north of the zone 6 line. I'm willing to take my chances. I love deodoras and have to at least give them a try!

From Forest Farm, I am planning to order:
Abies procera 'Glauca'
Pinus strobus 'Pendula'
Pinus sylvestris 'Hillside Creeper'
Cedrus deodora 'Karl Fuchs'
Cedrus libani stenocoma
I also have Picea omorika 'Pendula Bruns' and Picea orientalis 'Tom Thumb' coming from the ACS, which my husband ordered for me for Christmas.

I assumed the nurseries would fill orders as received, rather than as shipped; that is, if I order now, and they say it's available, it will be theoretically pulled from stock, marked sold, and held for later shipment. Are you saying I could think I have something bought, but find out later this spring it's no longer available??

PS to Ken-thanks to your advice and encouragement last fall, we did put in a water line with faucets, laterals, etc., which will make it much easier to keep everybody watered next summer. Thank you!

EXPECT to lose these:

Cedrus deodora 'Divinely Blue'
Cedrus deodora 'Gold Cascade'
Cedrus deodora 'Klondike'
Cham lawsoniana 'Snow Queen'
Sequoiadendron gig 'Bultinck Yellow'
Cedrus deodora 'Karl Fuchs'
Cedrus libani stenocoma

are you ready for the financial loss?????

on the other hand... who knows ... maybe you will win ....

EXPECT THE WORSE... revel in success .....

with SS .. if they list 20 in stock .. you will get them ... if they list one... dont hold your breath ... they do NOT set them aside, as far as i know ....

i though about my water suggestions all summer long .... and thought you blew me off ... i worked hard on trying to convert you .. lol ... start a new post.. and tell us what you did.. and show us some pix .... inspire other 'hose draggers' to convert .. lol ... did it go in soon enough to reward you last summer .. do you miss dragging hundreds of feet of hose?? .. how did you get over the river??? etc ... we want answers .. lol

ken

Ken,

I really am hoping the Karl Fuchs and Cedrus l. stenocoma might be hardy enough to make it in a protected site. I expect the others may only have a few years, or for as long as we continue to have milder than normal winters, but I would like to give them a try and enjoy them for as long as possible. They are all 1 gal. and the cost was not bad, so I am prepared for the financial loss.

I wondered what those numbers indicated in SS's on-line catalog. I'll have to go back and look at that. Sometimes they list the same plant, same size, more than once, with differing numbers in stock. What's that about?

As soon as I have time to get some pics, I'll start a new post and give details on the water line. I'm really excited about it and would not have initiated it without your encouragement. It has not been a difficult project (with much planning and help from my husband), and anyone with a large yard certainly ought to consider it.

Thanks again,
Kim

the numbers .... i presume they are nurserymen versus computer geeks ...

they should list size in this order .... 4 inch, one gal, 5 gal ...etc .... it seems at times they write one gal twice ... but the amount and cost are different ....

if you have a budget ... consider a flat of 4 inchers .... i THINK there were 15 or 18 to the tray [fits into a box] ... two box shipping is not that much more than one box ...and you can get a lot of cool tiny stuff .... talk about enabling.. lol ....

ken

Their website doesn't give a lot of info on ordering possibilities. I requested but have not yet received their catalog, which I think will give more information on what/how you can order. I've been a little scared to order 4" as I assume they are more fragile. Do you give the 4" plants more care, protection for a year or two? Do you plant them out in beds, or grow them in protected holding bed for a while?

You got it Kim, pot them up and keep them under a shade tree for a full season then plant them out with a gallon root system, or, plant them in a holding bed and do the same.

I can explain the numbers on Stanley's site except for the double postings of same size containerized plants.

Just know that when (1) plant is listed that they have zero. If (2) plants are listed they probably don't have that plant either. At these times they've simply not removed the stock from the availability list. I've asked about this before. So, in retrospective if they list (4-5) plants, they probably have one or two for you) and 'always' it's a guessing game.

Nice wagon idea Ken. That's perfect. Still for the little buggers (potted up or not), I'd drag the wagon into partial sun with respect toward more shade than sun.

Regards,

Dax

i have talked with them numerous times about the timing thing. ... they indicated that all there stock is out in the sun .... so.... in theory ... the plants should not need to be protected from the sun .. if you are about the same latitude ....

when ordering from a nursery .. it is always good to know if the stock is coming from a greenhouse or shade house.. to avoid sun burning them upon arrival ....

that is for one gals ...

the 4 inch pots... should be in high bright shade.. as those tiny pots can dry out in minutes in sun ... a flat is better than individuals pots to protect themselves from sun .. a black pot can get real hot in any direct sun ... and a small black pot can cook the roots very fast ...

in general .. i agree with dax on shade for high noon .... and sun for morning and evening.. most conifers need sun ... but the problem is the pots ...

just giving you the things to think about... i am sure you will think it all out... ken

Or Ken, just afternoon sun from 3 o'clock on or therabouts is very good and actually even better than morning sun.

Dax

There's a lot to consider. Inspect the root system first. That's rule number one. Continue from there. And Ken, the sun in Portland, OR is much different from ours because they don't have the humidity, plus the root systems never go completely dormant in Boring, OR/Portland. So... as Ken will tell you, there's a lot to understand.