OK, I grow Jonagold, Goldrush, Ark Black, Empire and Honeycrisp on 111. Ark Black is the most spur bound variety I grow and literally binds itself up with flowering spurs after only a couple of years and while still quite small- I have to pull off flowers and prune that one for vigor, much like Smokehouse. It is the strain provided by Adams County Nursery and they don't market it as a "spur type". Goldrush will also bear quite young and is not a vigorous tree. Empire is similar to Goldrush in precocity, but produces more obvious spurs when young. Jonagold is moderately vigorous and will take more time than the others to come into fruiting. How little space you can keep the trees in while still being productive is quite variable (soil, pruning, training,climate) and not something I've personally tinkered with much, but I believe the earlier fruiting varieties are easier to keep in a smaller space while keeping them productive.

That can vary depending on many factors like the type of rootstock, soil type, time of year, and amount of TLC you can give it after transplant, etc. But, here is a generic guideline that will give you a place to start: For trunk diameter below 1/2", multiply the diameter by 20 to get approximate rootball diameter. For trunk diameter between 1/2" and 1", multiply the diameter by 18 to get approximate rootball diameter. For trunk diameter between 1" and 1-1/2", multiply the diameter by 16 to get approximate rootball diameter. For trunk diameter between 1-1/2" and 2-1/2", multiply the diameter by 14 to get approximate rootball diameter. For trunk diameter between 2-1/2" and 4", multiply the diameter by 12 to get approximate rootball diameter. Here are guidelines for rootball depth: For a rootball with a diameter of 1', depth should be approximately 8". For a rootball with a diameter of 2', depth should be approximately 1'. For a rootball with a diameter of 3', depth should be approximately 15". For a rootball with a diameter of 4', depth should be approximately 18". Here is a link that might be useful: Generic Rootball Size Guide

I just got a big and beautiful tree at Boething Tree Nursery in Woodland Hills. 818-883-1222. We had searched everywhere, even as far south as San Juan Capistrano, to find a specific specimen tree (14 ft tall). Someone here on Garden Web recommended them and they were great! Good prices and a huge selection. Good luck! Brooke

The typical root system of established trees will extend many times the radius of the canopy, sometimes as much as three or four times. The canopy of a tree is not something that should ever be considered as a 'marker' for tree roots, as it would be limiting, indeed. However, healthy trees can be removed with most of that root system severed, because when transplanted properly into a good site, root regenerate rapidly. Field-grown (professionally grown) trees are managed in such a way to limit their root development into the surrounding territory too much, but even at that, up to 90% of the roots can be left in the field after digging. No attempt is made to get 'as much of the root system as possible'. For one, the trees would weigh several tons! Anyway, a much more appropriate measurement to give us is the diameter of the trunk, probably at about 4.5 feet up the trunk. That's diameter, not circumference. The ideal way to transplant trees of this size would probably be with a tree spade. The actual size of the tree (in diameter) would indicate what size spade. Tree spades cut the roots sharply, remove the ball from the ground with very little damage to the crown and root ball, and will also move the tree for you. By the way, with the proper measurements, I can probably estimate how much the tree and root ball will weigh, give or take a couple of hundred pounds. Tree spades 'can' be used to dig the hole, too, but the operator might need to be ordered to dig it three or more times as wide than he is used to doing. This is probably the ideal time of year for you to transplant. Do NOT do any top pruning prior to the procedure. The foliage is the energy source that will enable the tree to produce new roots rapidly. Also, plant hormones in the branch tips trigger root development, as well. If you prune the top, then the tree is forced to concentrate that essential energy from the leaf factories away from the roots. Thus, top pruning to compensate for root loss is a myth. As the previous person mentioned, plant only into native soil without any amendments at all. Again, the hole should be at least three or more times wider than the root ball but NO DEEPER! As a matter of fact, the hole can be a few inches more shallow so that your tree sits a bit higher than the surrounding grade. I'm not a fan of the Super Thrive, but I know a lot of people who are. It can't hurt, at least! Be sure to avoid fertilization at this time. All your trees will need is water, sunlight, and time. By the way, the larger the tree, the more difficult it is for the tree. That's why we need that measurement. I can estimate how many months it will take for your tree to become properly established. Questions? Confused? Let me know!