My goodness what a cute Dog!!! Oh, getting back to trees.. Is there a way you can take a close up of the soil in the pots and maybe a handful in your hand? Most plants usually respond very well to a fresh transplanting after about a month or two....I would be patient and let the sun and a weak feeding of fertilizer do the job...It seems like your soil mix is ok for now, but after a short period of time, watch to see if it collapses and holds more water than it does now..Always think ahead...If it compacts and decomposes into even finer particles than you already have now by winter, you will be asking for problems... I would of made the mix one part of that soil, and 5 parts bark, and one part perlite...This would hold its structure well beyond the winter and not invite "fungus gnats" which can be a pain all winter... Your Ph should be around 6.5 to get the best out of your fertilizer...7.0 may be too high...Use a capful of vinegar in a gallon of water when you water.. I would use Foliage pro or any fertilizer that provides the right ratio and all the minors in it, especially Ma and Ca... Don't be disappointed if some of your leaves reverse to green, since it looks like some are beyond that, but the new growth should be very rewarding too you... Welcome newbie... Mike

I will not be keeping my windows open and plan to not heat see below. My greenhouse is made of glass and wood all of which I pulled out of contraction dumpsters. I have enough glass for a 500 square foot surface with 4 layers of glass. This will give me a 37 foot by 15 foot tall lean-to green house at 8 feet wide against the south side of my house . The outside layer of glass is hermetically sealed. The 3 inside glazes breath some. The inside is kept humid. When the surface get cold the vapor in the air condenses and give the heat of fusion to the inside air. This keeps the inside warm. When the out side gets below freezing the vapor must condense first (520 cal./gram H2O) then must release another 80 cal. per gram h2o to the in side air thus keeping it warm inside. The outer glass surface is locked at 32 F until all the moisture on its surface is ice. The next layer of glass must go through the same, then the third layer must succumb to this solid ice frosty state, The frosty state of moisture on the glass will greatly decrease the amount of heat that can slip through. This alone probable guaranties my safety to 10 F for many days in a row. I heat the growing medium with the south basement wall. The R value of it is about R-4, While the other 3 walls are R-150 Minimum an loose near 0 heat. I heat the basement to about 75 F. There are no ducts to heat any where else in the house. With living area walls at R-40 they loose heat slowly enough to stay warm with the heat in the basement just bleeding up. The warm basement wall keeps the greenhouse soil at 60 F min. My annual natural gas heating bill is under $200 . If the temperatures drop below 0 F I will have to place out buckets of warm water to supply the needed humidity to power the gasses phase change heating system. Steve

The Leaf I agree it was burnt, but the stem has started to yellow/brown over the last week. I'm just worried it may be spreading. I water it only when the soil is fairly dry or if the leaves start curling

Well first of all, Wow! thanks very much everyone for all your advice and imput, I do enjoy hearing all the different perspectives. I am actually from Australia. on the east coast of NSW. Also why i havnt replied untill now. - I have used seasol fertiliser mostly as well as a citrus fertiliser from Richgrow just a couple of times, but never together. I have probably fertilised them about 6 times all up. around 3 - 4 weeks between. I only get to the property 1 -2 times a week when i will water them but it has been a fairly wet season so there has been many times when i haven't had to. - When the leaves started getting yellow early on i did use Yates Trace Elements to see if they responded but did not notice anything major. - There are no signs or evidence of any pests that i can tell. - I did test the ph of the soil which was slightly Alkaline, i cant remember the exact reading, but i think it was around 7.5 - 8 maybe. so for that i did use some yates liquid solfur to help reduce the level. There are many citrus trees nearby, one neighbours Tangelo tree grows well over our back fence with many fruit. The closest would be our side neighbours 2 citrus trees only 20m away (65ft :) ) which are nice and green with fruit aswell. The major difference between her trees and ours are that hers are halfway up the hill rather then on the flat like ours. I would of preferred to have them further up the hill but with all the building and excavating going on it was not possible at the time. However if it was necessary to re plant them we probably could find a spot for them now out of the way, I have also heard similar things to what John was saying about it been hard at first but once, and if the tress do get established in clay soil they will thrive and become good, strong plants. I would prefer not to move them, possibly mound them up more, but if thats what i have to do to get some yummy fruit, then thats what ill do. looking forward to seeing you you have to say. Thanks.