I would think any good poison with a residual. Too bad but I would lay it on THICK if you are really worried. They do have wasps that feed off of the larvae. I dont know if anything organic works.

If your tree is not to big just keep a good eye on it. Most of the psyllids dont carry the disease but I would not chance it.

I do know for a fact that the County Of Los Angeles is using Cyfluthrin and Imidacloprid to kill the pest. Dont know if us "little people" can get it though

I know from growing apples and peaches pesticide has to be rated for citrus before you can use it.

I'm really not worried about my trees I just want to do my part. I am afraid someday the citrus police will show up at every home grower yard and confiscate their trees.

There is no home prevention that I know of, other than not trading scions or moving plants out of the quarantine area. The main problem is that your plant could have the disease for 2 years before symptoms become apparent. Check the new growth regularly, since that is where you will most likely encounter the insect.

Here is a link that might be useful: citrus psyllid

Randy, you might want to check with your local citrus protection program for your state, and see what kinds of control measures they recommend for your area. Hildalgo County in Texas has launched a ACP Control Project, and there are some suggested treatment regimes you can review if you'd like. There are spray control schedules for both commercial growers as well as home growers. And, it is more than moving scion wood or plants out of your area. No part of a citrus or citrus relative should be moved out of your area. In fact, when I was at UCR's Citrus Variety Collection, the professors stated they didn't even want neighbors swapping scion wood or plants/fruit. If you're wanting to propagate different varieties, your safest bet is to purchase budwood from CCPP. That way you know for sure it is disease-free.

Patty S.

Here is a link that might be useful: Texas Asian Citrus Psyllid Control Research Project

Thank you Patty. I did find mention in an article the use of one of those Bayer root soak products. I will go to the Texas link and see what they have to say.

Randy, did you do/say anything to the person selling the trees? That is appalling, isn't it?

I'd have made a big squawk, that's for sure. But that's me, lol. That's one greedy and dishonest vender breaking the law and putting innocent growers at risk.

The USDA inspectors need to be on the prowl at these types of events (including farmer's markets).

I could not since it was a friend told me the story several weeks after the fair.

I am sure if you asked people who were growing home citrus at least in GA most would not know of the problem.

It sucks but once your tree is bit, if the bug has the disease, your tree is gone. You can spray all you want with a residual or systemic but once the bug bites, even if it dies afterwards, your tree is gone.

I would try for a spray that would keep them from wanting to take a nibble out of the tree.

Blaze, that is one of the characteristics of Neem...it is well known as an anti-feedant. You are so right that it can be very important.

rhizo. Do you think organocide would do the same job as neem? I know organocide is an oil with fish, seed oil and lecithin? Would you think it would have the same effect as neem?

What is a good concentrate form of neem?

Organocide is basically a specialized horticultural oil product but does not have the natural chemistry that Neem has. It offers no anti-feedant qualities nor the growth regulator activities that neem does. An oil product such as this could be used for all of the purposes we count on oils for, but not to prevent the feeding activity of visiting insects. Short answer: No...won't do the same job.

There are many brands of horticultural Neem on the market. Look for something like Dyna Gro, which is a 100% pure cold pressed neem product. Just follow the directions for mixing (with water and a bit of liquid soap as an emulsifier). Honestly, there are many, many brands of horticultural neem. Some will be 70% active ingredient, and will include the emulsifier and other insert ingredients.

I like to use my own emulsifier (organic liquid Castile soap with no added fragrances or anything else). I can make a solid recommendation for the soap...I'm pretty picky about that, lol. I use Green Mountain Liquid soap.

Watch out for added ingredients like pyrethrins. I've seen combination products on the market.

As always, when using ANY kind of product, be sure to read and understand the label. (This is true with every kind of household product, right?) Though horticultural oils are generally very safe to use, they come with important warnings. The label will carefully explain how to mix and apply your oils. It will give you warnings about temperature and sunlight. It will list some of the plants on which you should not use an oil product. The label will also list the types of pests and diseases that you can expect to get some control over by using the product according to the directions.

Yeah I understand. On a side note Im hoping the damage on my plum tree is caused by a mixture of copper and oils and everything else I used. I think its called phytotoxicty? Im hoping its the build up of too many chemicals instead of something worse.

Oil-lime- sulfur is bad as well.

A CARDINAL rule of the safe use of anything you spray on your plant is to never mix substances of any kind unless you have carefully investigated the safety. This is also true for substances that you use within a couple of weeks of each application. AND! It doesn't matter if it's a home brewed concoction, something that is designated as 'organic' or whatever! As a matter of fact, home brewed remedies might even be worse since they don't come with a label warning us about damaging concoctions.

Yeah I found that out the hard way. Oh well, the tree is doing OK and at least I took some cuttings of everything to get checked for disease. But I seriously am hoping it is just phytotoxicity

Copper is deadly on peach trees with foliage. I guess it does the same for all stone fruit. If you live in zone 9 or higher you won't get leaf drop in a mild winter like we just had. So skip the copper on stone fruit with leaves.

Will do:-)

I found out that copper is bad on leaves as is but with on oil added it acts as an emulsifier that basically opens the leave up to more copper toxicity.

Well we live and learn I guess. In the years from now when Im old and grey (god willing) Ill look back while Im eating my FAT plums and laugh at the time I almost killed my trees by over spraying copper and oil...lol (I hope)

I thought I read somewhere that planting Guava next to citrus will deter either citrus psyllid or leafminer. Actually, I think the report said that Guava plants were planted next to citrus to help with the prevention of Citrus Greening.
Simon