This is why I cringe when I hear people blithely talking about chopping down trees so people can see the front of the house, or the roots are damaging a walkway. It takes so long for most worthwhile trees to reach a decent size, I question whether most of these people have the patience to replace these trees. (And as far as the walkway people, I'd see a large old tree as being more valuable then a brick walkway...I'd be more inclined to remove the walkway to protect the tree's roots.) This is also why a handful of fast growing trees that arborists *HATE* keep getting planted. This is also why a lot of landscape design seem VERY heavy on shrubs and perennials, even though they are a lot of work...quick return on investment. One thing that makes it worse is people live in a very mobile society now...lots of folks won't stay in the same house long enough for trees to grow. One of my favorite sayings is "Society prospers when old men plant trees under who's shade hey will never sit".

They'll be fine. Everything here (zone 6) starts popping up in March and we can have temps in the 20s or 80s in April. I really wouldn't worry. The only thing you'll have to worry about is once things start to really leaf out and flower or you put in fully developed perennials or annuals. If you get a frost after that, you'll want to cover. Or, as I do, just get up BEFORE THE SUN HITS THEM and hose them off. Good luck! :-)

I don't have much advice yet.. but, living together is a huge commitment. ..it will affect the children's lives along with yours, hopefully positively. ..that being said it doesn't sound like your ready to take this plunge. Your questioning it so I guess my advice is think more about this, don't rush into something this important.

I'd put a few more holes in. Make sure your potting media is well-aerated and well-draining. For lacunosa, since she likes it a bit on the damp (not soggy) side: 50% fine orchid bark 25% New Zealand sphagnum moss, cut into 1/4 inch pieces 25% #3 perlite -OR- 50% fine orchid bark 25% potting soil 25% 1/4 inch hydroton/LECA (or 25% perlite, if you don't have hydroton/LECA) Alternatively, you can buy a pretty good pre-made mix (Gubler Fine Grade Orchid mix-blue bag) that has all the necessary stuff in it, from Lowes. The mix will work fine for both Lacunosa and pubicalyx, but you might add a bit of potting mix or other moisture-retaining media into your lacunosa pot, to keep it less dry. Remember to soak the mix overnight and rinse before potting up. This removes excess tannins and also re-moisturizes the bark in the orchid mix. As far as rooting goes, both are quite easy to root from cuttings, but lacunosa seems to do better rooting in a large clear bag, or container/jar with lid. After potting the lacunosa cuttings up, place the pot in a large, clear bag/jar/Tupperware. If using a bag, mist the cuttings lightly, then blow a few puffs of air into bag and seal. If using lidded jar/tupperware, just put lid on. Keep in warm, bright area. No direct sun. Every two to three days, air the bag/jar/Tupperware out for a few hours, then re-seal. Be sure to blow some air in the bag, if using the bag method, before re-sealing. After a week, gently tug at the cuttings. If there is resistance, the cuttings have most likely rooted and you can start acclimating them to normal room conditions. To acclimate, over the course of a week, every day, increase the amount of time you air the container out. Day one, 4 hours, day 2, 6 hours, day 3, 8 hours, etc. Pubicalyx will root readily in normal room conditions, as long as the room is warm, and the potting media stays lightly damp (just mist every few days and water if the first 1/2 to inch of potting media is dry when you insert your finger into it). Both plants are relatively easy to care for, but lacunosa can be fussy. Over-watering is the bane of most Hoya species, but lacunosa also acts like an angsty teen, if she doesn't get enough water. For lacunosa finding the balance between over- and under-watered was a challenge for me, at first. I finally gave up and just started misting her very lightly every other day, only watering her if her leaves started wrinkling. I took notes on how long it was between waterings. My average was 7 days in the summer and 10 days in the cooler months. Your average may differ, depending on your climate, micro-climate (where you keep your plants- greenhouse, sunroom, outdoors, etc.) potting mix, etc. Pubicalyx has always been an easy grower for me. I water every 10-14 days, and provide bright, indirect sun. No fuss. Plus, all of my pub. cultuvars survived the Great Capsicum Plague of 2018, so yeah, I love that species!