boday, I had heard similarly re P. Polymorpha. So I planted one a couple of seasons ago in a less than sunny location. It has done just okay. But in fact if it did very really well it might actually be too large for the spot! They can grow huge. ----------------------------- I have a polymorpha that started out as - "I wonder if it'll grow here"? to "I wonder if it'll work as a focal point for the whole yard". - (Big yard). So, I can chop some rooted branch and experiment. Trying to establish sight lines, distance and close ups is a big challenge. Astrantia Roma looks great close up, thirty feet away is just a pinkish blob. Five plants disappear.

The biologists that turn out plants do so according to how a plant uses sunlight and while some can do well, some very well in low light, all must have some light. Others respond to high levels of light and do not respond well to low light. A plant that requires full sunlight is one that might do something in less light, but for it to do its best the light level must be according to its genes. Flowering plants look their best, do their best, last longer, with better health if given what light they can absorb. If we appreciate that fact then we will achieve more enjoyment giving a plant what it needs and if we cant provide for them we look for other plants that can do with less. The exposure we give a plant---north, east, west, south--- can have a great deal to do with how a plant puts out its best. South and west are the brightest, hottest. East is less intense, the morning sun and will do fine for plants that can get along with less but still bright light; and north is often given plants that cannot take bright light. Often though a north exposure will do nothing for a plant and the grower, if expecting more, will be disappointed and maybe put the blame on the plant and not where it should be. There are ways to increase intensity where there is low light. Putting a plant near a white surface such as a wall or fence. Light can be reflected, deflected back onto a plant. A corner where light is allowed to enter, but where the temperature is better, can influence a plant to grow and bloom better. Of course the soil the plant is growing in will greatly influence its healthy growth and bloom. Fertilizer and soil amendments can help overcome difficulties but its the amount of light the plant gets that ultimately decides what the plant does.

Steve is right! I had to learn the hard way to add shade to whatever they recommend, like full sun = about a half day or no more than 3/4 of a day of sun and part sun/part shade = mostly shade, just a little sun filtering in here and there or several hours of morning sun. Most recommendations must be for northerners. There are some plants that can take full sun, but they're just about all trees - pines, red maples, sweet gums, persimmons, wild black cherry, etc. The foundation for Gulf Coast gardening has to be trees! :) Sherry

This year IâÂÂm growing a SunPatiens Compact Lilac and 2 SunPatiens Compact Electric Orange, each in a pot. They have not liked being in direct noonday sunlight in Raleigh NC. WeâÂÂve had some really hot days. They demanded so much watering that I moved them to partial shade, with an hour or so direct morning sun. They have liked that much better, but they have not produced the bountiful blooms shown in the marketing pictures even though I have fed them lots of bloom booster fertilizer and gave them a really nice potting mix. For whatever reason, the Lilac grew faster and larger than the Electric Oranges. The Oranges are just now catching up in size. Tomorrow I plan to move the Lilac into deeper shade to see how it responds. I need some color in that spot so this will be a test to see whether I should consider planting Compact Sunpatiens there next year. IâÂÂm also planning to try Dragon Begonia in that area next year. Think I wonâÂÂt use the Lilac with the red Dragon Begonia. Anyone have suggestions for other Compact Sunpatiens colors I could use with the Dragon Begonia?