Natalie, I can tell you how I pack them to ship. Email me with your 'have' list and also your 'wish' list - I need some bulbs! To ship bulbs: Dig bulbs and wash all the soil off the bulb/roots, then let dry over night. Get some newspaper and wrap each bulb individually. LABEL the bulbs, using masking tape, which will also help hold the newspaper on. Place them in the box and use wadded up newspaper to fill in the spaces, so the bulbs don't roll around and get bruised. Secure the bulbs and newspaper with masking tape for further secure travel. Make labels for your box, use strapping tape to secure the box, take it to the post office and GET A GUARANTEE of delivery, so you don't get stiffed! EMAIL the recipient and let them know when you mail them, so they can be looking for the box. Ask THEM to email you when they get the box.

TIVO, I am exhausted just from reading all the complicated things you've done and are concerned about. My basic approach to ANY thing in life has always been to do it as simply and cheaply as possible. There is a simple thing you can do, which will not cost you one cent, that will make Every Single One of These irrelavant. I used generic potting soil from wal-mart, so I am not sure about the level of nutrients in the soil. I also mixed in a little bit of coffee grounds and composted cow manure, so I probably (i just learned) inadvertently temporally reduced the amount of what ever available soluble nitrogen was available. (I was smart enough to mix in extra perlite b/c blackberries need more drainage than most other plants.) Any way, I have 10 newly potted blackberry plants. I was wondering if I should use Miricle-Gro Quikstart Transplant Solution (or any other brand). Do I risk root burn if I use this before the plants have a chance to get over the shock of shipping and planting? or will it help reduce the shock as advertised? If I leave the plants alone (except for watering of course) will it be awhile before the plants even need available NPK? Do you think the available soluable NPK already in the soil is adequate until the plants show growth? I am also considering putting in plant food spikes (about half or less the recommended amount until growth starts) b/c of the slower release. The small amount b/c it's mostly root and small stems and the desire to "do no harm." What do you all suggest? Here is what I suggest: Simply put a layer of grass clippings on top of whatever soil you have in the pots. (I would have used plain old soil from my yard, which is free!) The grass clippings will: 1. provide all the nutrients your blackberries neeed. Ive had thornless blackberries for 32 years, in the ground. The only "fertilizer" they've gotten is grass clippings- with maybe an occassional banana peel or other kitchen scrap. 2. Make any worries about fertilizer burn- simply Can't happen with them- or nutrient deficiencies a thing of the past. 3. Let you go longer between waterings, because they keep the soil much cooler and moister. 4. Prevent weeds, which can come up even in pots. A couple of tips on using the clippings in the pots. (And later when the berries are in the ground.) 1. Don't let the clippings actually touch the stems of the berries, especially fresh clippings. All the moisture in them could rot the stems, though blackberries are just about impossible to kill. In the pots, you can make small collars from yogurt cups or something similar to put aruond the stems. 2. Always water before you appply clippings, so they can "lock in" the moisture. This holds true in the ground, too, but is even more important in fast-drying-out pots. Then try not to get the clippigns wet for a while, till they've dried. It wouldn't hurt your plants one bit, but they might smell a little. Oh, I'm curious why you think blackberries "need more drainage than most other plants?" I have heavy clay soil, and they've done just fine. In fact, many people are afraid to grow blackberries, cause they are so hardy and "take over the yard." (On that, if you'd like to know a way to keep that from happening, post a question.) Oh, I hope you didn't pay extra to get Ten plants? The way blackberries spread, believe me, One would be sufficient. Ive given away hundreds of plants to other local gardeners over the years. Tyrell

If (?) this is the zip code (42223) the roses are planted in it's coming up zone 7a on two different hardiness maps. I'm in zone 5b-6a right on the line so conditions are different here. You could contact a Rose Society in your area and ask them how deep to plant the bud union in your exact area. I can only guess... This post was edited by jim1961 on Sun, Apr 7, 13 at 20:49

I have 2 years limited experience in planting bareroots. I planted 300 bareroots in 5 gallon pots last year in early June since I wanted to control sunlight. June is a bad time of year for planting bareroots but that is when you can get great deals, 99cent deals. I soaked them for 48 hrs in a bathtub. Dont let them sit in the shipping box. I kept 40 in the box for a week in a cool spot but they had a white fungus all over the roots and canes and I lost all of them. The bareroots that I trimmed the roots and canes before potting had a higher mortality rate. Just trim off the broken roots or canes or canker canes. I placed the pots in shade/semishade with a white sheet covering them to prevent them from drying out. I occassionally sprayed the sheet for morer moisture. BIG MISTAKE. I created a great environment for powdery mildwew which I had to fight all summer. This year I will use the sheets but I will not wet the sheets. I also will spray bareroots with an organic antifungal and water without spraying the canes. Water pots daily when it is hot and dry. Roses will bud out within the week. I take them out of the sheet cover when new sprouts grow a couple inches. Keep in shzade/semishade for adjustment then gradually move to more Sun. Eventually place pot in LOCATION of future hole. I would plant in hole during early fall. Cut the pot away in order to keep roots in tact and plant. I am considering cutting all buds off the roses to allow them to use enery for roots and cane development. Dont fertilize in late fall! I hope my experience helps.