Do you know which citrus can tolerate lower sunlight levels?
meyermike_1micha
13 years ago
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hoosierquilt USDA 10A Sunset 23 Vista CA
13 years agowoodrok
13 years agoRelated Discussions
What House Plant will tolerate low / no natural light
Comments (15)HI Mike; Thanks. Are you talking about Turface MVP or one of the finer Turface products? I've starting using turface with a lot container trees that I am growing outside and it has seemed to work very well, in hot weather, most pots are pretty dried out in a day. I just watered a bonsai outside that was watered yesterday that is in turface, and it was pretty dry. It was a pretty small pot though. I can't remember what day I had watered the jade last, I will watch it with your week guideline in mind, but I am pretty confident that it will be fairly dried out a week after being watered. The folks over on the bonsai form were the ones that suggested I put in about 10% compost with the turface for the Jade -- Not saying that I'm sure that is correct, that's just where I came up with the mix. I have some mixed that I used turface, perlite, compost & or vermiculite. With any amount of compost (more then 10-20%) or with any amount of fine vermiculite, my mixed got too heavy. Also got too heavy with sand in them, though I think the sand may be too fine. I have tons of grit & perlite here, so I can add it in if necessary, I'm hoping not to have to re-pot it again, but will modify it if necessary of course. What would have been your idea growing medium mix for a large Jade? Do you have a preferred soil mix that you use for house plants in general? I have most major soil / and soil-less mix ingredients here, with the exception of bark mulch - I've not found a good source for bark mulch that is ground to a proper size. Thanks Jamie...See Moretrade off between better insulation and sunlight loss
Comments (29)I am in the south central region of PA, SW of York, PA. The glazing is glass, and I don't use any lights for growing. Size, 12'6" X 26'6" (3.8m X 8.1m). Heat, about 300 gallons of propane/yr. I have a fan that runs 20hrs/day. Most of the plants in there are cactus/succulent. Cool nights preclude many Arums, but the high humidity favors some rainforest cacti, strangely enough. Whatever you choose, build it as large as you can afford. Mine was a rare find for 500 bucks, and that included most of the glass, all the frame and the aluminum bolts to put it back up. I have friends with double walled jobbers, and they are cheaper to heat, but the esthetics are different. Theirs also produce thousands of dollars of food, mine gives me occasional cactus fruits and lemons for a couple of months. Each greenhouse also has its own little climate. The materials used, the orientation and the outside climate all combine to make individual little biomes. A for instance: most folks would think that a carpet of moss in the pot of a cactus would mean the cactus would rot. Not so, and I can send you pics of many species of succulents with a solid moss covering on the soil. The air is humid, but the soils are dry, and the moss thrive in the cool damp air. It looks really good too. So the climate in mine favors moss, succulents, tropical epiphytes (jungle cactus, bromeliads)and cool climate citrus, and kills Aglaonemas (leafy Arums in general), Polypodiums and Sansevierias. The point is, while you can get much encouragement, ideas and information from a bulletin board like this, after you set up your greenhouse, it will show you what you can grow. Change the conditions, change the plants. Lots of bucks and cheap fuel? Growing orchids is possible. Shallower wallet and heat costs a consideration? Cacti make good pets despite their prickly reputation....See MoreRookie mistake w/sunlight levels
Comments (6)I'm trying to picture this. You have a number of mature trees that are deciduous. They filter the sunlight coming into most of your yard. You've taken out some because you want to grow full sun plants. You've replanted with trees/shrubs that may reach ten to twenty feet within what, ten years? (They would in zone 9 but may be slower in a cold winter climate.) You've placed them so their present and eventual spring/autumn shadows (the long ones) don't shade your sunny garden. You have other trees to drop within one to two years. First consideration would be for the tree feller fellas. Have they enough clear space to drop and process those trees without harming your new plantings? Second would be the species of sun lovers that you intend to plant. Some will become leggy and quite soft in part shade and be at risk of damage from frost or wind. They might even grow into awkward shapes in the struggle for light. You could mulch the area you're planning to plant up to keep weed growth in check. You could also plant it with annuals that don't mind part shade such as Lobelia and Impatiens to keep it under cultivation. And focus on any underplanting you have in mind to compliment your new trees and shrubs. Short answer: I'd leave the sunny plantings until the trees are down and use the time to track the shading from your new plantings so you can update your initial plans, as well as putting in any foundational work such as access for working paths and soil amending....See MoreDo you like a lot of natural light, in the kitchen?
Comments (38)Hmmmm, I'm going to look up the link to skylight covers in a sec. Interesting. But if Steph is thinking of making her own, it isn't that difficult, you know. The Home Depot sells 100 foot rolls of what is called SHADE CLOTH. I bought a roll of it intending to make roman shades from it, but DH opted to have plantation shutters installed here in Alabama like the ones I persuaded him to install up in Massachusetts. He really likes them. Now, I will probably use the shade cloth to make a cover outdoors for my shade loving hosta that I've gone nuts over. I have two roll up shades made of it on the totally Lexan walled sun porch, and it truly cuts the heat down, plus like Shelayne says you can see through it looking out. You don't want to put a shade on the INSIDE of your skylights Steph, because in AZ what you have is radiant heat, which will come in regardless of you stopping the LIGHT, if you don't stop it on the outside to keep the glass from heating up and transmitting/radiating the heat inward. If those purchased skylight covers can be bungeed into place, then you can see about making them yourself....or maybe ask your SISTER to sew them up for you? Are you handy with the sewing machine? Didn't we just chat about that sitting unused in most of our homes? Well, think about running a few flat hems easy as making a towel, threading the bungee through the hem, and get some young buck of an Arizona cowboy to climb up there on your roof and install it for you. Isn't your neighbor's boy big enough to help you do that? Think about it, Steph. You get the shade, and still have the light. It will make a difference....See Moreashleysf
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