The way I prune my S. 'May Night' is to prune the spent flower stalk just down the next set of leaves. Most of the stems have another set of small flower buds ready to go. If you look closely you may see them starting. On some of the stems, the 2nd set of buds already opened, but most of them haven't. After that 2nd set of flowers has bloomed, then I cut the whole thing down to basal foliage. I guess it depends on how far along yours has gone.

One of the Dropmore Scarlet honeysuckles on my brother`s ranch by Pincher Creek does quite well - gets the full blast of winter and chinook winds - doesn`t need too much trimming up in the spring. Others that have been in the ground for 3 years have not fared well - either dead or nearly dead and are getting replaced with Jackmanii superba. Mandarin honeysuckle is hanging in there also. This past winter there was next to no snow cover, no snowdrifts so a lot of established perennials either didn`t make it or are really struggling.

In Betty Clebshe's book it said if you deadhead (superba) regularly it is possible to induce flowering for three periods, so I guess that means deadhead.Go for it

There used to be a decent FAQ associated with this forum but that seems to have vanished over the years and I don't find the current one the slightest bit helpful. Re: pruning. Clems are lumped into 3 groups for pruning purposes, typically associated with when they bloom and if on new or old growth. Type 1's are late winter/early spring bloomers that flower on 1 year old growth. These are often labeled as "no prune". They can of course be pruned, usually if nothing more than to control size, as some grow massively large. If you need to prune, it should be done as soon as possible after flowering to ensure flowers the next season. Type 2's are large flowered hybrids (LFH's) that bloom midseason (usually anywhere from late April/May on) that bloom mostly on new growth but also partially on older growth. These often just get a light prune in late winter to clean up the vines of dead or tangled old growth. And in many cases, a light trim after the first bloom cycle will produce a later flowering as well. Type 3's are late season bloomers (midsummer on into fall) that flower on the current season's growth. These are usually recommended to be hard pruned each year to remove all the old dead vines and foliage. "hard pruning" means taking them back to the second or third leaf node from the ground or somewhere around 12-18" (even further if a herbaceous, non-vining type). These are just guidelines.......pruning is not a requirement, although it will typically provide a tidier looking plant with clean, fresh foliage and flowers throughout the vine rather than clustered at the very end of the vining stems. And hard pruning for the first two seasons is often suggested for ALL newly planted clems regardless of type to encourage healthy root development and additional vines/stems from the root crown. I usually fertilize at the start of the season after I prune. Any rose or vegetable fertilizer will work: so will any all-purpose fert (like 10-10-10). Or some folks just use a good mulch of compost. I don't find they require a lot and certainly not monthly like some sites suggest! FYI, 'Blue Light' is a type 2 (light prune) and 'Jackmanii Superba' is a type 3 (hard prune). Since you live where there is a long growing season, you can get by with pruning both hard - all it will do is delay flowering on the Blue Light slightly but it simplifies things enormously. I don't have that many type 2's (not my faves) but I hard prune them all just to keep things simple.........works out perfectly for me :-)