Pansies are cool weather plants, they poop out in the heat, and I'm assuming you had a heat wave like we did. Also, are the baskets in sun or shadier conditions? Pansies prefer sunny conditions, the taller stature and smaller blooms lead me to believe there is too much shade. In any case, I recommend getting some warm-weather annuals to replace if you want a summer-long show in the heat/humidity. :0)

I searched "tomatoes fell over" in Google and this page came up first. Just so happens I'm a member! Ha. As for the original post, sometimes tomatoes will shoot up tall and straight, but they are always going to flop sooner or later so that's why you go ahead and stake them in some manner. I plant mine in straight rows with wire (cheap roll of small gauge flexible wire you can get at Home Depot, etc.) on either side (parallel) of landscape timbers spaced every six or eight feet. The wires start a couple of feet from the ground and I run three or four courses up to five or six feet high. As the maters grow I make sure they stay between the wires and later on use panty hose as necessary to train the errant limbs. (For better results pinch off the vines closest to the bottom as they sprout.) But I came here to regarding seedlings in particular. They flop too and when they do it's game over. When I first started growing my tomato plants I used a grow light. Then, later when I started buying at the store I forgot all of that. When I decided to grow again all my plants fell over. It nearly drove me crazy! The reason was that I wasn't using a light. (It only took me three seasons to re-figger out the light angle! Dumb dumb dumb!) The moment the seedlings erupt you need to put them in the sun when possible and under a light of some kind at night. I use a couple of florescent lights.set near to the tops of the new growth seedlings. You do this and they won't flop over. Don't and they will, guaranteed. There can be other causes for flop, most going back to careless gardening habits. But one is sneaky for the beginner. You must never ever use old moldy growing medium...You know, the half bag you had left over from last year that has fuzz on top this year. That kind of soil will kill baby plants in about a half of a wink. Use fresh, or bake the old stuff, or just be darned sure your leftover hasn't gone over. Hope this helps. Mystery solved for floppy stringy, tall, dead tomato seedlings. Give 'em the light light light! All day and all night! Your tomato growing pal, Norm This post was edited by TheNorm on Sat, Jan 31, 15 at 14:30

This action could be an inadvertent combination of keystrokes which you didn't even detect. Usually the arrow keys in combination with the function, control or Alt key. I assisted one lady whose Acer laptop's display kept dimming. Turned out when reading or pondering her typing her hands would unknowingly move to the function key and arrow while at rest thus dimming the display ever so slightly. DA

For growers with plants in small pots who are concerned their plants' soil might be overly water-retentive, there's a VERY simple way to rid your pots of excess water. Putting Newton's First Law of Motion to work (an object in motion stays in motion with the same speed and in the same direction unless acted upon by an unbalanced force) is as simple as moving the pot up and down over the sink after you've watered to beyond the saturation point. Make sure the soil has been fully saturated and an extra measure of water has been added after the saturation point - so you're flushing the soil when you water. Immediately, or after the pot has stopped draining on its own, hold the pot securely and move it up and down over the sink or a container. You'll immediately note that on the reversal from downward to upward, some of the water keeps moving downward and out of the drain hole. That's because water in motion stays in motion with the same speed and in the same direction unless acted upon by an unbalanced force. You'll also note the sharper the reversal from downward movement to upward, the more water exits the put until all excess water has been expelled. The ideal state of moisture retention is a damp or moist medium - about what a wrung out sponge would be like. You can fix ALL of your excess water woes by way of that simple act. It won't fix soil compaction or lack of aeration, but it will be VERY helpful if you're using a soil that holds too much water. More about using a 'tell': Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support good root health, which is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to a build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al