Good evening! Yes, get yourself some liquid fertilizer. The vinegar does a couple things: first, it acidifies the irrigation water, which helps to prevent the slightly alkaline creep of most tap-water. Al (Tapla) recommends that you find out what the pH of your tap-water is and then add white vinegar until the pH is brought down to about 5.8 (if I recall). Then, simply add that amount of white vinegar to a gallon of irrigation water each time you water. Secondly, the white vinegar helps to keep soil flushed of excess salts, which helps insure that nutrients are always available to your plants. Al (Tapla) mentioned in the Pachira Thread that your plants can still suffer from nutrient deficiencies even when the nutrients are present in the soil (but inaccessible because of the high level of salts). Lastly, let me encourage you to avoid coffee grounds for your container plants. Coffee grounds are too weak (nitrogen or acidity) to do any good....but they often have salts that will accumulate in your soil, which can cause harm to your plants. In addition, coffee grounds break down rapidly, which will clog drainage and lead to overly wet mix. In the yard, coffee grounds are a fine addition to mulch or compost. In fact, I dump a lot of coffee grounds around the yard...but never in containers. Josh

Can you post a picture of your tree. In my case I can bring my figs and nagami kumquat in at dark and set out the next morning. This keeps the roots warm all night so they don't have to warm up in the morning They are in 5 gallon containers. My 2 Meyer lemons and one sweetlee tangerine tree are in 55 gallon half drums. At 150 pounds each, They will be moved once ever 6 months. Taken out in spring and moved inside for fall. The timing of when depends on your weather. I move my trees in and out when the night go below 55 degrees F. The 55 half'ers will be moved around 1st frost. With trees that large I seek out help and move one tree per day maximum.

I have found that Dynamite I think works better than Osmocote. Osmocote does not include micronutrients while Dynamite does. I have found that with using Dynamite, FMV effects are lessened, and just in general you get a better fruiting and looking tree. I use the 13-13-13 formulation. You can tell when the timed release stuff hits the roots because the leafts and growth are noticeable right away. I do however, use Schutz liguid Plant food with micros instead of MG because it also contains micronutrients. It seems that my trees just look better when feeding with fertilizers with the micros. Schultz will also not burn when used in the daily feeding dosage. I also use it with my newly rooted baby fig trees and it seems to really help them take off. I get better roots and mature leaves faster.

I grew up with three 20-40ft tall avocado trees in my yard, as well as three 4ft diameter 60ft tall Pecan trees, a couple 12-20ft tangelo Trees, Half a dozen 12 ft tall Banana plants, Half a dozen 60ft tall oaks, three 6-12ft Naval orange trees And a myriad of no less than 3 dozen different flowering plants throughout The front and rear yard. our avocados typically produce every 2-3 years due to temperatures dropping to 12°F-32°F between November and march depending on hurricanes and rainfall here in Central Florida. When our Avocado trees bear fruit, it’s typically 12-30 avocados per tree throughout the producing months. However opposite those productive years are always low production or zero production years. Not certain of the tree‘s descent, but Our avocados are typically well over 2lbs each and very large.