There are two of these trees within maybe 3 miles of each other, one growing alongside the freeway and the other in a yard (the one pictured). That was my first inclination, also: C. nuttalli, blooming out of season; however, these two are so different from the rest of the natives that once I got a closer look at them, it made me reconsider. Very dark green, glossy foliage and loaded with blooms, while the usual nuttalli are actually rather anemic-looking, even in full sun. Of course, those in the full sun do have more blooms than those in the more densely-wooded areas, but I've never seen one with this many flowers. I'll see if I can get some additional pictures of both and post them, because now I'm really curious as to exactly how these specimens do differ. Thank you!

Good question Alana. And, I believe the orchid mix is a splendid idea. I've tried all sorts of watering methods. One I found didn't work, that's not watering at all during the winter. Duh, they're evergreens. I don't think you can overwater ones mounted on a wooden board or in sharp draining clay pot. Presently I have many of mine root bound, in black plastic 5-7 gal pots, in blazing sun. They are NOT doing well. So, like a Dr would say, I'll tell you want doesn't work (what you don't have:)) In general I'd say just let the surface of the soil dry then water well. BTW It is totally impractical for me to bottom water or even avoid getting water into the top of the bulbs. I haven't observed any related problems. Most water related problems in my garden are related to poor drainage causing root rot.

Well, without photos, it's hard to tell you what might exactly be going on. Are you fertilizing on a regular basis? How frequently and with what (NPK ratio and micronutrients)? Limes, like lemons, tend to flower off and on all year 'round. I wouldn't worry about the blooms, I have many citrus here that are also putting out some blooms right now, too. If you want to post up some photos, we can try to help you diagnose the yellowing leaves. It could just be a function of cooler temps, soil pH a little high, and thus the locking out of manganese and even iron, which can cause some winter chlorosis. Not uncommon in my neck of the woods (San Diego county, Calif.) And, lime trees are probably one of the most sensitive to cold temps (Persian is a bit less sensitive than the Key/Mexican Lime, though), so I'm guessing without photos to go by, that this might be your issue. Patty S.

Not enough sun, too much water, probably poor drainage. Nasturtium absolutely HATES being transplanted - however, if you've got new growth, that's good. It will recover, but most or all of the old growth will probably die. All these herbs prefer poor soil, so the fertiliser isn't helping, either. And all are probably suffering from Transplant Shock. After transplanting, leave your plants to recover for at least a couple of weeks before harvesting from them. How would you like to have a part amputated after your transplant surgery, huh? Since the basil and mint are doing well, it would seem to be predominantly an excess-water problem - too much, too soon after transplanting. Both these can do with plenty of water. But the basil will be wanting a lot more sun than it's getting now. Before watering, do the Finger Test. Poke your finger into the soil. If the tip of your finger feels damp, don't water. If dry, water. Do not allow the soil to dry out between waterings, and if the soil is waterlogged, lift the pots up onto feet to assist with drainage and add some dry potting mix to help absorb the excess moisture. Sage and rosemary cannot tolerate constantly wet feet.