Well yes, the whole idea of a cache pot is so that you can lift up the interior plastic pot with drainage holes and take it to be watered, then put it back in the cache pot. If one watered directly into the "interior" pot, it would be the same as using a pot with no drainage! I also love to use cache pots. Unfortanetly, you can't use one with glass pots. I did, however, find one of those candleholders (a glass holder in a wrought iron stand), and I found a plastic cup that fits right in it...so I guess you could say the outer glass is the cache pot, because it keeps the look of glass. Very cool looking. I simply poked some holes in the bottom of the cup for drainage, filled the bottom of the glass with pebbles to hold the cup up, and I lift the cup out to water it. I love the idea...I may go look for some more of these. It's great for my smaller hoyas. Here's a picture from my phone (sorry for the bad quality):

Linelle - His name is "Boojum", from the Lewis Carrol poem "The Hunting of the Snark". A boojum is an especially dangerous and rare variety of snark. How do you train him to not hiss at you and claw to claim your territory as his? A combination of ignoring his drama and tantrums while making sure hands were out of the way or working in gloves (welder's gauntlets!) but not backing down, spray bottles of water when he absolutely had to be evicted, and slowly getting him used to the idea that detente and peaceful co-existence with 2-legged animals was a better way of life. If he wanted a door opened, and he hissed and slapped at my hand when I reached for the knob, I walked away ... so he learned to not slap at hands that were opening doors. BTW, he's NEVER slapped at a hand that's holding a food dish. We also stopped using "teasers", those feather on a string toys, because they encourage swatting with claws out. We use wine corks with feathers stuck in them and throw them. He's gone from trying to grab them out of my hand to waiting several feet away to catch them and play cork-soccer with me. And drugs! Very much because of alcohol-free extract of valerian mixed in tuna, twice daily for several months at a relatively high dose. It's an "anxiolytic" and lowered his anxiety level to the point we could have some calm interactions, which made him less edgy around us, so we had even more good moments ... it built on itself after a while. We tapered off the dose after a few months, but he still needs it on windy days, because they make him very on edge and grumpy. He's past not being hostile into being social - we have a cold house and one sunny spot on the bed where I read and he's welcome to sleep near me and the other cats. So he does. Does he ever scare you? Of course! That's 16+ pounds of fanged fury there, should he care to use it. Like I said - if you don't have scars, you aren't rehabbing :) Scares me less than he used to because he's learned we can take hints. He'll give a warning nip if I'm making him uncomfortable now, or a claw-free slap instead of sinking fangs into me or slashing me. Servals hiss and growl to communicate far more than domestic cats do - his hiss can mean "Whassup, dude?" as well as "I'm going to rip your face off" as well as "I have dibs on this shelf!" He seems to like lying in wait and letting off a steam-engine hiss as someone walks by, just to see them jump. Snarling at or near a door usually means "open this door for me" or "get out of my way, I'm coming through".

Hello William, its not clear from your post what's happening - in your first paragraph you write that he is loving when he's by himself with no other cats around, and then in the second paragraph he's biting people - is this a sister's daughter a child? Sadly you don't know what happened in his other life - could be children mistreated him. And sadly, often the more insecure and scared an animal is (again you don't know what kind of past hes had) the more they may be aggressive to other cats - cats still have a bit of the wild in them, and in the wild they would be competing for food and resources if these are scarce. If this cat came from a shelter, some have a harder time than others - animals know when they're not wanted, if their people have given them away and some may need an extra amount of love and reassurance before they start to relax and show their true personalities. And its sad too that shelters are so over burdened with unwanted animals and that you can't get assistance from them when you need it What I want to say is that you may be the person who may be in the best position to do right by this cat. If you look for a home for him then you are in the best position to be able to tell possible adopters things they really need to know - like he needs to be the only cat , in a home without children (if its children specifically he's having a problem with - not clear from your post ). The shelter you adopted him from should have provided you this type of information but for whatever reason did not. I have been in the situation of finding homes for stray or unwanted cats many times ... Word of mouth amongst friends coworkers and acquaintances is the best for a situation like this.-Otherwise, there's a way to screen people and be sure of a good match. In this situation you don't want first come first served - you want to know that its a situation that he'll do well in. If someone gets huffy about your screening them, then too freaking bad. The person you want understands why you're doing it, and I've also found that if YOU care about the cat, that appeals to people and they're more likely to want to adopt from you - Just be honest, be his advocate, make it clear that this cat has had a difficult time of it, that you want him to be in a place where he fits in and will do well, you want to be sure his next home works out, and of course along with the explanation of why he would do better in another home dont forget to point out his good qualities ( you did say he was loving right?) (BTW is he declawed? Declawed cats do sometimes become biters because they have no other defense. You and/or the adopter would need to learn to read his signals when he's had enough - ears flattened back, tense look on face - before he resorts to biting.) I hope this helps - I know from personal experience its a very difficult situation.

It looks like whoever built that doorway used a cheap material unsuitable for that application. It's some form of man-made wood fiber material, and this type of stuff is notorious for permanently swelling when it gets wet. Sometimes trim is made from another, higher grade man-made material called MDF, but what I'm seeing in that photo doesn't look that refined (and in any case, MDF can swell, too). The urine compounds have thoroughly impregnated that material and there is no simple way to fix it that I can think of. The appropriate way to deal with it is to take off the molding that's on top of it, remove the whole "board" all the way to the top of the archway, and then replace it all with real lumber, and re-paint. The molding strip is actual wood and that may not have absorbed as much urine, except on the bottom end, but I see it's split as well, so I would replace it with a new piece, too. If this is too much work, and/or you don't have the skills, then the only thing you could try is to chisel away all the damaged material, patch with multiple thin coats of wood filler, sand flat, and re-paint. It probably will not look great, though. Lastly, that's a lot of damage from one peeing incident and I would be concerned that this happened more than once in that location, and pooled urine could have gotten into the flooring and/or under the threshold. So, that area may end up still smelling even after you repair the obvious damage. Sorry, I don't have happier, simple advice, but that's my take on it.