Bubbles from soil?? Is this good??
17 years ago
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- 17 years ago
- 17 years ago
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Old soil that isn't very good
Comments (11)Thank you for the many helpful posts here. My beds were filled with 'topsoil' to about 12" below the bed line, and then the remaining 12"+ was filled with mushroom plant compost. Every year except last year, as the beds reduce (of course, esp. with much of them being compost), I have another half-load of compost delivered, which adds anywhere from 8-12" of compost to the top of all the beds, plus I refill all my big containers, and stick the rest in a rolling lidded trashcan where I keep extra soil to use as needed. Last year I did not garden at all. From the September before, nothing was done at all. So a lot of stuff stayed as dead when winter hit, then quite a bit of stuff reseeded come spring, so the bed all year was filled with the mix of dead stuff from the previous season and live stuff from the current year, plus weeds from being ignored. Now, all of that together is dead. My intent just like directed at last, there -- I am gradually digging out the top of the beds and containers where the weeds and their main roots are (bearing in mind, for all I know half these 'weeds' were fruiting plants at one time), and tossing those in one of my 3 compost bins, leaving the others for real compost (thanks for that advice). In the buckets, all of which were destroyed by the horrid freeze we had awhile ago (everything cracked or shattered depending on its material), I dig out the bottom part of the soil, which looks surprisingly good to me though I haven't Ph tested it, and I put it in my good-soil-bin for now. Once I finish all the buckets (I have 9x 32-gal ones and 6x 21-gal ones to dig out and it's slow going frankly, given everything is nearly frozen, but I'm working on it!), then I will do the beds. THEN I have to add new soil or something. I don't mean the whole beds need new soil, I mean like the top 12" or so of everything (beds, big-containers, pots). So I was thinking, since I already 'have' soil, that a 'soilless mix' seems sorta pointless. On the other hand, surely having about 12" of 'soilless mix' on the top, with 12" of soil underneath, probably isn't going to hurt anything, I hope. One thing I wondered is, if I add a soilless mix to the top (I'm looking at something like Al's recipe), with pine bark fines + perlite + spaghum peat, the fact that in some respect this could end up mixing with some of the soil as I put it in, would this be a problem? I heard someone say somewhere that mixing soilless and soil mixes, depending on their makeup, could result in something rather like mud-cement LOL. I don't know that I can afford enough of the ingredients for Al's mix to actually handle all my beds and major containers and planters. I'd like to but it is sort of unlikely. So I was wondering if getting more compost -- either mushroom compost again, or some from my own bins (hence my question about how to deal with the green/brown and breakdown more quickly), to mix in with that, would be more practical in the end....See MoreGood garden soil makes poor soil for roses in containers?
Comments (42)The reason you can't trust the volume of nursery pots, Jim, is that those black nursery containers are all "nominal" sizes. That means the volume of the pots is vaguely related to the stated gallon size. A "5 galllon" nursery can is 10.5 in. diameter and 12 in. tall. My online calculator says that is only 3.75 gallons if you pot 2 inches from the top of the pot. That isn't large enough for any rose past the first year or so if it puts on vigorous growth. The foot stomping is an old landscaper practice. It's just a cheap way of determining settlement without taking the time to water a plant in. I wouldn't do it. Water your plant in to settle the soil. I've seen people planting roses into dry potting soil. I wouldn't do it. Many potting soils have peat moss which sheds water once dry. Those of you in climates with steady rain year round may not have this problem, but in the desert West, once peat dries out, it takes a concerted effort to dampen it. I open the bag of soil, stick the hose in, fill it up and mix. Then I pot with dripping wet potting soil and also water it in. It's mud pies for grownups. It assures that the soil comes to the optimal height in the pot (about 2 inches down) and fills major air pockets. I unpot roses all the time and have never found an air pocket. I don't drop pots on purpose. Our summers are too hot to grow a lot of roses in pots well. We can't keep the roots cool enough through June and July. I overpot extensively. A 3 x 3 rose goes in an ornamental pot that is 22-24 inches high. I use various decorative pots from the big box store and always buy the biggest size. Why? They bring to rose up to height and look more in scale with a landscape. It's funny how a pot looks big in a store and miniature in the garden. Also, with those big pots I'm approaching the 15 gallon actual size I find any healthy rose needs. I do a seat of the pants volume-of-cone calculation to guesstimate the volume of the pot, taking into consideration the potting soil is probably 3 inches from the top of the container. Here's a nice online volumetric calculator. http://www.online-calculators.co.uk/volumetric/conevolume.php...See MoreAre the Clear Bubble Solar Covers any good?
Comments (6)Quote: "I didn't realize that the sun heats the pool water better with a clear cover, or no cover, just by direct absorption of the suns rays. I would have almost sworn that a dark cover heated better by how hot the water was directly under the cover when I stuck my hand under it." True that, but it extends only a couple of inches, whereas light passing through gets a couple of feet into the water. In an uncovered pool, no pump running, the bottom of the shallow end (and the top of the deep end) is warmer due almost exclusively to sunlight absorption by the water. At any rate, it's really all about controlling evaporation. A pool heater must put in 1 BTU in to raise 1 pound of water 1 degree - but one pound of water evaporating takes away 1048 BTUs. Somebody should check my math, but... If you lose 1/4" of water per day to evaporation from a 500 sq ft pool, that's about 10.4 cubic feet of water lost, which is about 77.8 gallons, or roughly 650 lbs of water. That then takes away 680K BTUs. Which is the same as a large gas heater (400K BTUs) running full blast for about an hour and 36 minutes to make up for it. Cu the evaporation in half and...that's the real purpose of the cover....See MoreGood Soil & Then The Seeds
Comments (2)This was the first year I have started my garden from seed. I probably will do it again. I did a variety of tomatoes that I knew I wouldn't find in stores mostly. Though I did some peppers as well. Searching the internet and finding seeds for produce I wouldn't be able to find in stores here was pretty exciting. Everything has been in the ground for about 3 weeks and growing nicely....See More- 17 years ago
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