Not all is as you might imagine it to be. I save a lot of the stuff I write as a document when the question comes up over & over. Coffee & tea as plant 'tonics' is a frequent topic. Here's what I discovered: Forum discussions frequently center on the question of adding dilute coffee/tea or grounds to plants as a 'tonic', but Arabica (coffee) and Camellia (tea) are known for their toxic alkaloid (caffeine) content and their allelopathic affect on plants as well as autotoxic (poison to their own seedlings) effects on future generations. Caffeine interferes with root development by impairing protein metabolism. This affects activity of an important bio-compound (PPO) and lignification (the process of becoming woody), crucial steps for root formation. We also know that the tannins in both coffee and tea are known allelopaths (growth inhibitors). There are ongoing experiments to develop herbicides using extracts from both coffee and tea that cause me to want to say they might serve better as a nonselective herbicide than as a tonic. I would not use either (stale coffee or tea) by applying directly to my plants - especially containerized plants; nor would I add tea bags/coffee grounds to my container soils. Rob - you can use white vinegar or citric acid (and other acids, but stick with the safer stuff) to lower the pH of your irrigation water (for the acid lovers) to about 5.5. Note how much acid is required per unit (like a gallon or 5 gallon unit) and repeat as needed. Note that pH of freshly drawn water rises as the dissolved CO2 gases off over a 24 hr period, so let the water you'll use rest for a day before adding the acid (first time only) for an accurate read. You'll need some pH paper - like what is used for ponds or aquariums. Al

Hey Mike. I'd love seeing your pictures, especially Desert Rose, now that it's in bloom. Since it's at your work, is it in a window? I believe palm leaves are called fronds. Or is that fern leaves? LOL. I'm unsure. Yesterday, after reading your thread on Palms, I ended up on Ebay..Sure enough, I bid on 3 palms..lol..won two. Blue Mediterraium Fan and European Fan. There's one palm listed at 650.00!!! That must be one hellofa palm..Do people actually buy plants that cost so much money? The last bid was for a Travellers Palm..though it's not a true palm, (it's related to Bird of Paradise, Sterlitzia, spelling's off) I doubt I'll win. Has anyone ever seen a mature Travellers Palm? It's amazing. There's one at the conservatory; they have to chop down periodically, otherwise it'll hit the top green house panes. Some palms grow faster than others. Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans) Kentia (Howea forsterana) and Areca (Chrysalidocarpus lutescens) Palms grow quicker than most. I have one of each, they've put on many 'fronds?' over the years. I'd like Bamboo..but can't find one that doens't cost a fortune. Seeds take so long, germinating, plus growing. I'd too be long gone before seeing a 4' palm started from seed..LOL. It would be nice meeting people from Gardenweb. But where on earth would we all meet? I get lost going to the store, lol, let alone driving out of state. And I have a fear of planes. The last time flying, I thought I'd have a heart attack. LOL. But I agree it'd be great meeting everyone. On a nice, summers day. A few years ago, people on Citrus forum met. They got together, introduced themselves, went to a citrus show, was taught grafting trees, had speakers discuss citrus and their care. Most people lodged at the same hotel/motel. Met for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It sounded wonderful. Perhaps the white powder is from clay pots?? Mike, when you don't feel, 'lazy,' lol, (your words) take pics. Toni

Many potting soil mixes on the market today contain as much or more organic material as inorganic material. For example, potting soil can be made of shredded wood, bark, and/or peat moss with minimal amounts of what we call real soil (dirt). Styrofoam pellets, perlite and vermiculite are some of the other items that are often added to the soil mixture for aeration and water retention. In addition, many mixtures also include different types of fertilizers. Some fertilizers are oxidizers, which will make a fire that does start, grow at an even faster rate. Potting soil mixtures are shipped moist and in plastic bags from the manufacturer. Most people use the soil in their planters in the Spring, then they forget about them once Fall/Winter arrives. Bacterial decomposition occurs within the mix that creates heat. This is the same principle that makes compost piles or bales of hay heat up. Although this principle, which is called spontaneous combustion, is usually found more often in climates containing more moisture; because water acts as a catalyst, these types of fires can also occur here. But I think Violet is correct "It takes over 500 years for styrofoam to break down so in the big picture, I wouldn't worry about it. You're simply adding aeration to your soil. You're not dumping the contents of a beanbags and you're using common sense. It will do more good in your garden then it will in a landfill."

Hello, Gary! Here is a list of cymbidiums that grew well and flowered for me (what I can remember off the top of my head): Cymbidium Nut Cymbidium Golden Elf (kawamoto orchids has both, and they are coming to redlands) Cymbidium Sunshine Falls 'Butterball' -Lowes find Cym. Sarah Jean "Ice Cascade" CCM/AOS -web Cym. Evening Star 'Pinkie' -Redlands Cym. Little Black Sambo 'Black Magic' -Lowes, bagged seedling..but has not flowered yet, too young. Cym. bicolor Cym. pendulum Cymbidium Showgirl and more... The ones in Walmart/Sams club seem to be standards coming from CA - I never bought them for these reasons. It is possible they will do well here, but not likely. Good sources: Lowes/HD carries warm-growing vars occasionally! Redlands - last year, one vendor was selling a lot of different warm-tolerant crosses (with Golden Elf, etc)They are all near blooming size, so no flowers yet. And a few NOIDs: Possibly Miss Taipei/sinense hybrid. Found it in Apopka, FL, as a small seedling (for 3 dollars!) Another NOID, this time from Lowes - rebloomed a year after purchase with four spikes. I give all of mine strong light, but try to protect them from strong light during the heat of the day. I noticed that those under lots of light during the hottest time of the summer did not bloom/did not bloom well this season. I had blooming "by regions" - some locations had lots of bloomers (closer to the tree, more protected), and some had almost none (subjected to too much heat, I think) I also noticed that I have to be careful with my mix...Because of the rain season, it is easy to rot them....I add lots of perlite and gravel to the mix... Cymbidiums are definitely worth the try :) Olya