Here are my 'search button on GW results...

Here is a link that might be useful: mealy bug search results

If all else fails you could always cut it way back, remove the foliage, clean it well and repot it. It will regrow but will take a while before you get more blooms. I occasionally have unwanted critters while my plants are wintering over inside but never have problems when they are outdoors. I just try and keep everything under control until it's time to go back out then I can keep them clean by hosing them off with water frequently.
Karyn

Do not know if this help but is is more info. from ehow

Mealybugs are cottony-looking insects with piercing/sucking mouth parts. They suck the fluids from leaves and stems, robbing plants of essential nutrients. Mealybugs feed on all parts of the plant, but especially on tender new growth. Leaves wither and yellow and, on crop plants, fruit may drop prematurely.
Instructions

* STEP 1: Identify mealybugs by looking on the undersides of leaves and around leaf joints. These insects look like small (1/10 to 1/8 of an inch) balls of cotton. Mealybug-damaged plants look withered and sickly and may have sticky sap on the leaves and stems.
* STEP 2: Spray a strong jet of water directly on to the affected area of the plant. The stream washes the insects off. This is the easiest way to control mealybugs.
* STEP 3: Spray with a soap/oil mixture if the water alone doesn't do the job. Mix 1 tsp. insecticidal soap, 1/2 tsp. horticultural oil, and 1 quart water in a spray bottle. There are also numerous chemical products available for the control of mealybugs.
* STEP 4: Use rubbing alcohol and a cotton swab to treat minor infestations. Dab the rubbing alcohol directly onto the insects.
* STEP 5: Try purchasing and releasing a natural predator called mealybug destroyer (Cryptolaemus montrouzieri) for serious infestations. Place the mealybug destroyers directly on the infested plant.
* STEP 6: On an ongoing basis, attract other types of predatory insects, such as parasitic wasps (Leptomastix dactylopii), that will consume and control mealybugs. Grow their favorite plants such as dill, fennel, coreopsis and brightly colored flowers near the mealybug-prone plants.
* STEP 7: Select and plant plants that are naturally resistant to mealybugs. These include plants with a milky sap and thick or fuzzy leaves - they'll vary depending on where you live.

I thought I would post the email so maybe someone else could benefit.

Martin's Insect Growth Regulator

GENERAL INFORMATION:

Insect growth regulator concentrate with NYLAR for indoor and outdoor use.

Effective long term control of fleas, roaches, flies, mosquitoes,
gnats, crickets, litter beetles and ants.

This is what I use. It kills every insect it get on or crawls on it.
It is also safer than all insecticides. Inside it it is good for 6
months. Outside it breaks down because of UV rays in about 6 weeks. It
causes them to readily shed their exoskeleton or molt till it kills
them. I now use this with every insecticide I use. The insecticide for
immediate knock down and the IGR for long term control. Kills hatching
eggs and new infestations.

It can be purchased at most farm and ranch stores or feed stores and
some department stores. It is about $ 15.00 but goes a real long way.
In a hand held sprayer I put about a oz and mix with water and spray
to wet like you were misting a plant. If you mix with a bottled water
it is stable for up to 7 months inside the house in the bottle or you
can mix about what you need like 1/2 to 1/4 oz and about 1/4-1/2 of
the bottle full. This is the magic which all pest control companies
use.

Here is a link to where you can buy it on ebay but is cheaper if you
go to a local farm and ranch and buy it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/INSECT-GROWTH-REGULATOR-4oz-Fleas-Ticks-Roaches_W0QQitemZ7713503876QQihZ018QQcategoryZ75582QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Good luck this will do the trick.

Jim

I had mealy bugs all over my jade plant (Gollum) seedlings so i puffed a couple of sprays from a lens cleaner (diluted isopropyl alcohol) onto an old toothbrush and gently run it along the Gollum seedlings. It worked. All the white spots are gone. I'll check back again tomorrow if they have returned and repeat for a week. When it's less hot (summer now), I'll let them have a little drink of Confidor for systemic protection

If you really want to get rid of them and don't mind pesticides....there is a product called Bayer insect control and it comes in a large pill form that you push into the soil near the plant. It kills the mealy bugs as they feed on the plant. It has been the only way that I have been able to get rid of a huge infestation (brought on by bringing one plant home that was infected). It also works on scale, aphids and other pests. It is a systemic pesticide. Also, there is another systemic insecticide called Bromide and it comes in granular form. Just sprinkle it on the dirt and water. I like the pills better, they don't have an oder, the granules smell like insecticide. Both of these products contain fertilizer also. Don't use these products on edibles. My problem is that the last remaining infestation is on my orchids and they don't really have roots in the dirt. I'm not sure if those products would harm the orchids or not.

When there is a heavy infestation going on, I use a mixture of neem oil,
dish soap liquid and garlic juice.. seems to work for about 10 days.
After that, I look out for those one or two bugs and squish them with a
cotton swab or with my hands wearing a glove.

Also, look out for small waxy-cottony balls on the under side of leaves
or at the base of the plant. This is the egg sack and can contain upto
400 eggs. remove it from the plant to avoid further infestation.

If you see ants, use diatomaceous earth. Ants feed on the honeydew secreted by the bugs and protect them from predators.