I'll add to the confusion. Lemke's database at hostalibrary.org says Choo Choo has 17 pairs of veins. (note: The links for CCT and Chopsticks have been transposed) The vein count isn't given for JCC. I bought JCC in 2005 by mail order, not happy with it or several other hostas from that place. It was small, slow growing, and is only now of decent size. I bought CCT from Hallson's last year, a much better plant in terms of original size and growth rate. Each one has 11 veins. They are far from mature, and perhaps the vein count goes up along with mature leaf size. That would make sense. At any rate, I can't help with an accurate vein count. However, my Choo Choo seems to have slightly more heart-shaped leaves, and the Jimmy has longer leaves. But, once again, my plants aren't mature, and leaf shape often does change with maturity. Good luck on your quest, Brockport! (Pittsford, here)~Bunnycat

You're welcome! Oh, yes, I know La Crescenta weather! I had a very large (twelve-hundred-plus plants) rose garden in Newhall for eighteen years. Happily, I'm down to under two hundred here in Encino, now, not counting seedlings. I'd think once you have the plants sufficiently hardened off, putting them outside when the weather cools off, in a protected area while they continue maturing would be much better for them than anything indoors. Do you have issues with squirrels, rabbits or other rodents where you are? Hopefully not, as they can devour a new, tender young plant like those in a sitting. I budded some plants earlier this spring and they were developing nicely...until a rat or squirrel gnawed the shoots back to the shanks. They went far enough to even get the guard buds, so they failed. As long as you're not concerned with the plants blowing away or being washed away by heavy erosion, there isn't any winter storm weather you should really have to be concerned with there. It doesn't get cold enough to damage roses as a general rule. They're honestly not as fragile as we like to think they are! As long as the potting soil drains and doesn't remain goopy, soggy, it shouldn't be an issue for cuttings. I've planted all of mine in the plain old Miracle Gro Moisture Control Potting Soil because it remains damp enough for smaller pots to not dry out in a day when we have the heat and wind spike so common in our areas. It works just fine, much better than the non moisture control has because it does hold more water than the "regular stuff" without being soggy. The only bagged soil I've encountered in recent history which was real garbage has been Super Soil. It USED to be decent, but now is a mucky, goopy mess, so I'd avoid that like the plague. My dissatisfaction with the other brands I've more recently used has been they have dried out too quickly, often requiring being watered daily when it is hot, dry and/or windy. The Moisture Control hasn't. That can make a huge difference during a heat or wind spike. I even use the Moisture Control soil to raise my rose seedlings in with good success. I only cut it with either seed starter mix or perlite for the seed cover to prevent it from being too heavy to allow small seedlings from breaking through. If your bags are remaining sufficiently moist to only require watering every two weeks, you probably don't need to mist the cuttings. It sounds as if they are remaining moist enough. Too much misting in the bags can easily turn to rot very quickly. I'd only mist them if you're seeing them being flagging or wilting from heat. Otherwise, it seems you have your bases covered. Good luck! Kim

"According to the Monrovia Nursery Company of California this cultivar has replaced W. floribunda 'Royal Purple' in their propagation schedule because of its ability to flower at a very young age in containers. It originally came from the Verhalen Nursery in Texas. Although 'Texas Purple' is described as a cultivar of W. floribunda, in the photograph provided the flowers appear similar to those of W. sinensis. Because of this and its precocious blooming it has been included in this chapter [Hybrids and Cultivars of Unknown Provenance]. When careful comparisons can be carried out it may be possible to assign it to a species with certainty" --Wisterias, A Comprehensive Guide, Peter Valder, Timber Press Here is a link that might be useful: Monrovia.com : Learn : Plant Catalog : Plant Detail : TEXAS PURPLE JAPANESE WISTERIA

If I were you, I would use the SW ProClassic paint as I think it gives a smoother, silkier finish. But be sure to take off the cabinet doors and paint them horizontally. I think the paint salesman was suggesting a "blocking" primer rather than a bonding one. All primers are supposed to bond. He might have been suggesting ProBlock Primer which I have used over stained wood I wanted to paint white. It keeps the wood stain from bleeding through. There is another current thread going on about painting cabinets and you can learn a lot from it. So rather than inventing the wheel, read this: http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/paint/msg0713562232723.html?10