Inna - Rob's varieties are mostly semi-minis or minis - so repotting should be done every 4 months. Saves you from a really long neck. The way you described it - is what is the easiest solution. You need to remove all the bloom - so you will not have any bloom for another month and half until it roots and catches up. But if you are worried that you can kill it - and things happen - you can remove the bottom leaves and wrap the bare stem with a sphagnum moss. Keep the plant in a humid environment - like in a baggie - it will send roots in a sphagnum moss - and a month later you can just cut it off at the soil line and pot it - sphagnum and all - in a new soil. The leftover stem stump in an old pot will send you new suckers eventually - and you can cut them off and root and increase your collection of Rob's Cherry Soda (or whatever you have). Good Luck Irina

Hello m taggert, The medium usually placed in those store bought Flytrap pots is long fiber sphagnum moss, which is fine. If the moss in the pot is chopped fine, it is probably sphagnum peat moss, the dead dessicated moss that layers under the long fiber dead moss which itself layers under live moss in nature. All of those products are the natural growing medium of the plant in peat bogs. Just make sure that your plants are not potted in potting soil and they will be fine until next spring. Check drainage by pouring a little water in the pot while the soil is already moist. Excess water should drain out in minutes. Those pots are small, but it will not hurt them unless the pots have no drainage. If their is no drainage, repot them or drill 1/4-1/2 inch holes in the bottoms of the pots. You can place the pots in a water tray up to 1/4 of their depth or less, never over that as that can drown the roots and induce root rot. Just slowly adapt the plants to low humidity if they are still in domes by removing the domes slowly over two weeks (lifting the dome and bracing it up a fraction of an inch every three days or punching a few holes in it every three days till it no longer holds humidity). Adapt the plants to high light levels by placing them in a morning sun window until they are out of the domes and then each week in progressively brighter all day sun windows. Once they are in a bright all day sun window for a week, place them outside if possible so they get maximum sun exposure. Leaf burn is expected until new leaves grow in with stronger UV resistance, but the plant overall will be stronger for the direct sun.

Funny, because I've always felt I had been an "over waterer" for years, I've been trying to ignore these guys, and that's now probably done more damage. Windows face the West, so they usually get 3-4 hours of direct sunlight a day. Yes there is a heat vent right below those windows on the floor, so perhaps that has a lot to do with them drying out. I'm in lower Wisconsin, and weather is just now getting nice outside. I think I will take the small Sans pictured and put them together in one pot. The larger one, I'm wondering should I shear off the leaves that have completely wilted? I will probably put in a smaller pot to see if I can revive it. I'll wait to see what feedback is on mixing the 2 smaller plants and shearing the large one. Thanks!

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. I don't think I was able to remove all of it, it was too tangled with healthy roots and I didn't want to damage them. It's not mushy, necessarily, it just had a lot of give to it when I touched it, like it wasn't as firm as it should have been. It was wet to the touch, not dry, if that makes a difference. Do you think I should try to separate the two stalks in case it spreads to the healthy one, or would that damage the roots too much?